Hydro all the way.
1. Better power and modulation
2. Automatic adjustment as pads wear (with mechanical you'll get more lever throw as the pads wear)

---

I talk a lot - Give it a listen: http://www.fasttalklabs.com/category/fast-talk
I also give Training Advice via http://www.ForeverEndurance.com

The above poster has eschewed traditional employment and is currently undertaking the ill-conceived task of launching his own hardgoods company. Statements are not made on behalf of nor reflective of anything in any manner... unless they're good, then they count.
http://www.AGNCYINNOVATION.com

Thanks!
Any suggestions?

hydro is $$$... my gravel bike has DA9170 Hydro... very nice. My Tri bike has TRP spyre mechanical and I'm using DA levers(left over from my old tri bike).. honestly better then I thought they would be. Barrel adjuster will keep the throw at bay as the pads wear. Best price I could find on R9180 levers was $500 pair... I have ultegra hydro calipers sitting in a box ready to go.

Thanks,
I'm still thinking back and for. I was never really happy with the eTap and if I would have to start from scratch I def would go 9170 DA all the way.
Since this stuff is already here I will not start mixing it up with other parts.. somehow it looks silly to have sram and Shimano components mixed up together.
On the other hand that would allow me to upgrade long term for DA... I need to think about that.

Is there nothing else out there than DA and TRP? I noticed Sram has hydraulic now as well. Is that working? Where is Magura and Co?

I've got Campy and Shimano on my steel roadie. IIRC, there are some manufacturers who are speccing Shimano brakes on SRAM eagle-equipped mountain bikes....

go for it...

---

Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

https://www.sram.com/...-aero-hrd-disc-brake

---

Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Sram’s tri hydro disc is available in a non series product. It’s pretty reasonably priced compared to other options. I think several stores have them in stock. They do appear to make your base bar reach significantly longer.

https://www.universalcycles.com/...details.php?id=91489

However, if you want to switch Di2 why not just do a standard lever and a TRP cable disc caliper? It’s significantly cheaper to get a set TRP Spyres in flat mount than it is to get the Sram S900 disc or the Di2 9180 / 9170 discs.

I know Jordan Rapp was/is using SRAM hydro brake levers on his Andean with a mechanical SRAM groupset but I would recommend having a look at his bike before going that direction. The hydraulic reservoirs in the callipers are not the most visually attractive.

My question to you is how well do you know your fit on the Andean? Most of the Andeans are sold with cable actuated hydraulic discs as this makes life much easier if you start playing with the front end of the bike. I personally wouldn't go hydraulic on a bike with that amount of internal cabling until I was sure I wouldn't need to adjust the cable length.

Good point, thanks! Apparently i'm just piecing it together and for now I only have the frame and my old front end. I would may run that with external hoses for now to make sure that things fit. I was planning to use my PD zero basebar with T4+. Both considered to be pretty flexible.
Lets see, thanks!