This is a situation where getting a fit makes a huge difference. A proper fit will configure the bars, pads, and saddle so you are comfortable and stable.

But, there is no substitute for riding outside. The first time I got in the aero position, I was weaving across an entire bike lane. It probably took me a few weeks of rides to stabilize and feel that I could both ride safely in a straight line and feel comfortable for extended periods of time.

It will take some getting used to. A good fit will make the process easier though. You may start out with a conservative fit and then get more aggressive as you get used to riding in aerobars. The best aero position is the one you can hold the longest as well. I’ve tried a more aggressive position that I could probably hold for a sprint, but wouldn’t dare try it in a 70.3. Good luck!

I think I put an aero bar on my Colnago funny bike in 1987. It took about 10 seconds to get used to it. Just ride and don't think about it.

What do you mean when you say "aggressive"?

I guess aggressive in this instance, for me anyway, would be defined as the most aerodynamic position. While it may be the most aerodynamic, someone new to this position wouldn’t be able to sustain it for long periods of time without fatigue or pain.

For someone going from road bike position to aero position, you wouldn’t slam them to the lowest possible position to begin with. It would most likely be uncomfortable and they wouldn’t spend as much time in aero position, which would probably negate the entire purpose.

I know (anecdotal I know) for myself, I had to gradually get used to being in aero position and was able to become more flexible over time, which allowed me to get more aerodynamic.

Probably as clear as mud.

I think you should work in some neck exercises off the bike every other day or so at least if you're starting new aero neck positions that may strain your neck. Just a precaution. Neck pain sucks and the best way to avoid it is to stretch in the opposite way that you are on the bike. Yes's, no's, ear to shoulder, superman, snake. Keep up the core work and you should adjust to aero over time. The comfort level should go up over time as well as the potential power in each aero position. Watch your Garmin if you can to see the speed in the different positions to get better in power and position.

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Yeah - like probably a wider elbow stance to begin with and adjust over time based on user discretion.

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You can’t make as much power and you can’t breathe as well in aero.

Don’t think you are doing something wrong when this happens. But you can go faster with less power. A fit would help get you more comfortable though.

Start with some highly-adjustable clip-on bars (Profile Design Ergo is a good choice: https://www.amazon.com/...erobar/dp/B07G167X63 ).

1. I'd start out with a position similar to what you have with your hands on the brake/shift levers and your forearms level.....except with your arms narrower. This is just a starter position, but will allow you to get used to the bars without changing your saddle position; and is still much more aero than the brake hoods position (since your arms are now in line with your body).

2. Soon you'll feel that it feels better to move forward on both the saddle and on the bars....but this isn't too comfortable on a standard road saddle. This is when a more tri-specific saddle and position start to make sense. Just spend some time in the earlier position before you rush into this.



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ECMGN Therapy Silicon Valley:
Depression, Neurocognitive problems, Dementias (Testing and Evaluation), Trauma and PTSD, Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI)

I'd agree that this is where the most difficulty should be.

I say "should be" because you should not just put aero bars on a road bike and stop there. You really need to do something with the saddle (move it forwards a lot, and ideally replace it with a model that you can rotate forwards on) because you're positioned on it very differently. But you shouldn't move to a position that feels like you're bending forwards at the hips.

To me, a good aero position should look exactly like a good road position, just everything rotated forwards around the bottom bracket.

Couldn’t agree more on making sure you spend time outdoors.

You’ll be squirrely anyways, but throw in gusting wind, crosswinds, distractions from cars, and whatnot, it can be harrowing first few times out.

Random:

1) Don’t go as aggressive (max aero) as possible right away. I rode a less aggressive position for a year or so before lowering the bars and asking more of my back. It is better to sacrifice some aero for a position you can hold endlessly.

2) You’ll possibly feel like you’re on a saddled squirrel at first. Just relax and stick with it but don’t do things like go for your bottle or even scratch your nose at first. If you need to do anything like that, sit up first.

3) Ride outside but hold off on riding on windy days for a bit.

4) Ride on the least populated roads you can find. Avoid cars the best you can. You’ll possibly swerve a bit.

Indoors in the bars helps power but a lack of outdoors time will mean you’re not comfortable using it.

Find a quiet pothole free area outdoors first where you can make small errors and twitches. Then move up over time to bombing down hills over 40mph while in the skis. It takes many hours practice.

Do some core work and work on the shoulder blade area to make holding position more comfortable.

A lot of the power loss outdoors isn’t just “position” adaptation. It is not coasting, always applying power, not being afraid, pacing, always applying power. Zeroes in the power field don’t make you go faster.