Not exactly what you asked, but this is what I would do in your shoes...

I would get a Premier Optimized chain and a bottle of their wax chain lube.

1. The chain is super-clean to start with, so it is not messy at all.
2. It really does not require cleaning, but if you do, you can just spray & wipe it down when you clean your bike.
   
3. If you ever do want to remove the chain to clean it, that is super-easy with their link.
4. It is clean and easy to re-lube with Premier's wax-based lube.
5. It is a very fast chain that will improve your speed.

So, if you want to minimize the impact of chain grime and cleaning, and you are not handy, make the one-time investment in a great chain and leave your troubles behind.

Been thinking about the same thing. New Core with clean cassette, chain's a tad dirty. I'll likely wind up taking it off the trainer, put a wheel on, head outside and clean it. A lot of work but I really don't want chain grease all over my house.

IMO - Your chain should have a master link. Every bicycle chain should have a master link. With the link and appropriate pliers you can easily remove and service your chain.

If it lives on your trainer, it is probably not dirty at all.

If you are a rock/roll user, just follow their directions. Don't spin too fast and the excess won't sling off.
I use squirt, so same thing: drip on each link, spin it around, let it sit for 5 minutes, wipe off as much as possible.

Shimano chains do not have a master link. SRAM has their Powerlock link, but it is intended to be single-use. Wipperman chains come with a reusable link. (Premier uses a Wipperman chain.) The Wipperman Connex link is sweet, but I am not sure you can easily find just an 11-speed link by itself.

It’s mostly just all my sweat. I’m a pretty heavy sweater, even with a fan on me. It seems the chain gets rusty from the sweat.

Most bike shops carry single quick links. First thing I'd always buy if i have a shimano chain, although shimano actually does use quick links now. Wipperman is the best, but kmc has a decent one as well and you can pretty much always find one of those two

Best way that works for me (I'm using KMC chains exclusively with master link)
- wear medical gloves (cheap pack of 100pc)
- grab some empty plastic bottle (2 litres, 6 litres) (I use one from drinking water)
- chop off 70% of the top with knife, so you have a small bowl left
- put some regular gasoline / benzine into it with chain (closed master link, so inner stuff don't fall off)
- shake it a little and after some time (20mins) clean it manually with old toothbrush
- rinse with water, and dry out with towels (and if summer, just let it sit for some time outside)
- put it on bike, apply some lube
- thrash out gloves and bottle with gasoline (I just burn it outside at bbq)

In result, its clean (not 100% of course), but result works for me, especially if i need to clean more than one and fast

If you have sweat on your chain causing problems, you probably have lots of sweat in other places doing more damage. Do you have a bike thong and towel along the top tube? I have double-protection, because I do not want sweat dripping and settling anywhere on my bike. Before I realized what was going on, I totally corroded all the bolts on my cockpit and corroded my headset to the frame. And, I was getting rust on some of my spokes.

I would do the chain care stuff recommended here. But I would also look at ways to minimize the sweat that can get to your bike.

For a quick and easy clean I have been using Clorex Disinfecting wipes that come in a big tub - not a deep clean but amazing how much crud comes off - this is my weekly quick clean. Hope this helps

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Graham Wilson
USAT Level III Elite Coach
http://www.thewilsongroup.biz

Never heard of a bike thong. Looks like it could be nice. I put a towl across my aero bars, don't usually put one across the top tube, but you are right, the cockpit got very rusty and corroded. I've got a new bike that I haven't taken to the fitter yet, so I haven't started using it yet, want to figure out a good way to keep the new one from getting corroded.

Thanks everyone for the replies.

My Shimano HG701 Ultegra/XT I use for indoor training came with a master link.

The 105, Ultegra and Dura Ace 11 speed chains come with a master link

It's a great chain - no doubt. Wax is sooo much cleaner than oil lubes. But remember to clean your cassette, pulleys and front chain rings - otherwise your chain is a mess once you put it back on your bike.

Like it or not, having a clean gruppo is some work.

That is good news, and new to me. Are those the latest R8000 and 9100 chains? I bought three Dura Ace chains in 2016 and 2017, and those did not have master links-- they came with the pins. (It is kind of moot to me now, because I have fully switched over to the Premier/Wipperman chains that come with their slick Connex link.)

Yes, the latest chain's.

What is the good connex 11 speed chain to get?

Reading this thread as I'm trying to find out how to remove and service my Sram AXS chain. How should I deal with the single-use Powerlock link? Thanks

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Just order a pack of something like this.

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/..._0ukaycaAkTWEALw_wcB

Re-use the link unless it's damaged.

I've been taking removable links apart a handful of times for 10+ years

I might get absolutely roasted here, but oh well. I rarely ride in the rain, and the path I ride on has no cars, is about 40km long with only 1 required stop (construction area), and is quite flat and very clean. Which is going to be very similar to riding indoors, but even cleaner.

I spray WD40 on my chain every 500km or so, rotate the pedals for a minute or two to get it into all the links, then use an old towel while spinning the pedals backwards to wipe off the excess. After each ride, I spray a little WD40 on an old towel and then wipe the chain in the same manner by rotating the cranks backwards until it is relatively clean of the dust it collected during my ride.

Yeah, I lose a few watts over the very best wax, and yes my chain doesn't last as long due to the grime. No, I am never in contention for a podium, However, I have 20,000km on my chain and only now is it showing signs of needing replacing. Not sure if that is good or bad, average, great or poor, but at about $60 for a chain that gives me 20,000km that doesn't need replacing or being taken off multiple times a year, I'm happy with what I'm doing.

On an indoor bike, I can imagine it would easily last as long since there is less grime, and sweat is just going to roll off it anyway.

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The more people I encounter the more I love my cats.

…...and with those words you had best prepare yourself for a public shaming in the village square. :-)

"Good afternoon everyone. My name is Slug, and I use WD40 on my chain. The truth is, I' lazy and I'm not ashamed to admit that I kinda like chain tattoos. It makes me feel manly until I wash it off in the shower."

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The more people I encounter the more I love my cats.

This !

I too just keep re-using. Road bike, MTBs, and the Brompton (EVERYONE needs a Brompton).
The ones on the mtb must get taken off a dozen times per chain wear if not more (its wet here for 9 or 10 months of the year and dry lubes = an orange chain). All makes of chain and link.

And when the chain is worn ? I keep the link as a spare / it goes in the tool pouch for roadside / trailside repairs.

The YBN or YNB links work just fine with different chains. Their chains are also a decent alternative to the major brands and you can get them in gold if the bling factor floats your boat.