https://www.connexchain.com/...x-11sx-englisch.html

"I can't find an exact replacement for my Ultegra 11speed chain to match my Ultegra groupset"


What do you mean?

If you can't find an Ultegra chain, KMC chains are fine. They aren't directional either, so you can install them in any orientation.

Regarding quick links, buy a multiset of quick links from Molten Speed Wax. I believe 5-6 come in a pack, price is reasonable, and each one is rated to be reused 5 times. However, I have no qualms about reusing a Shimano quick link over again a few times. It doesn't make sense to me why they're a one time use piece of equipment, but I'm also a low power endurance bikers. I might feel differently if I was a high HP crit racer who was able to put big power into the drivetrain.

I switched all of my bikes over to wax this year, including my mountain bikes, and I'm a big fan. No greasy fingers when having to mess with a chain (or at least a lot less grease), and no worries about whether I should have dry or wet lube on the chain based on the conditions.

My MTB chains are a lot cleaner after riding too. With traditional lube, my chains would be caked in dirt / dust after a ride. With wax, I still get a dirt buildup, but I use blower from my air compressor and it knocks most of that dirt right off.

I recently bought a new bike (first new one in 15 years). It came with Ultegra everything. When I look online at Ultegra chains, they have a specific model number for 11sp. So I assume I would want to replace the chain with that model chain.

I don't think the Ultegra chain is labelled as "Ultegra" anymore. Probably because the XT, GRX and Ultegra groups are all at the same level and spec the same chain.

The Ultegra level chain is now the Shimano CN-HG701. But to the OP, any 11s chain will work, it doesn't have to be Shimano. I personally like Shimano chains and cassettes, I think they shift slightly better than SRAM (purely subjective), but I really don't see the point in the Ultegra level chain. The CN-HG901is better and only $10 more, or go for the 105 level and save $10.

---

Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

This one:

Shimano Ultegra/XT CN-HG701 11-Speed Chain

https://www.jensonusa.com/...dKnLJ1xoCrqYQAvD_BwE

https://www.coloradocyclist.com/...hJzi_eRoCxSoQAvD_BwE

For waxing I would use the connex that Jim mentioned earlier

I've undone almost all of my quick-links at least 10 times each

Yes, that is the one. I cant seem to find a retailer that isn't out of stock, but I only spent an hour searching. I mis-spoke in my posts, I said Ultegra chain when I meant Shimano chain model numbers.

I will look for someone selling the Connex, but it seems to be an English brand?

Connex chains are made by Wippermann in Germany.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Wippermann-Connex-11sx-11-speed-chain-Stainless-Steel-Shimano-Sram-Campy-USA-/133598793363?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292

https://www.excelsports.com/...major=1&minor=62

---

Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

I forgot to mention that I like to use a mineral spirits bath several times and then a couple acetone baths to clean a new chain before waxing.

You can get large cans of mineral spirits and acetone at Home Depot for a very good price.

You can also get parrafin wax from Walmart and hardware stores for cheap.

I prefer Shimano chains, but i got about 5k miles out of a waxed YBN chain earlier this year. I replaced it with a KMC x11 about a month ago because it's all my LBS had in stock, and that chain seems fine too (i also waxed it).

Thanks all. This has been very helpful.

I actually just ordered the chain that Jim mentioned from Excel Sports

Worth noting........if you're not on a tight budget, go ahead and buy duplicates of whatever chain you're going to run and get them to the same length.

Then, you can batch wax/clean two at once and half the frequency you need to do the "work".

To me, it's worth the convenience. Like, if you forget and it starts shifting a hair bad..........you don't have to think about "I can't ride this tomorrow cause I need to do this, or risk wearing my cassette/rings".

I have ZERO data on if it helps at all.............but I actually pour the crock pot molten wax into the heated ultrasonic cleaner to do the chain. It might reduce the life of a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner possibly given the thickness of hot wax, but WTF ever.....it's like $25 for another one.

I've never cleaned new chains. I find I can get over 500 miles of noise-free, smooth shifting on a new chain. After that, I do the typical waxing program (mineral spirits, electrostatic clean, deep fryer wax, etc.).

In fact, SRAM recommends you NOT remove the factory wax. I can't find a recommendation from Shimano but I've had great success not cleaning a new Shimano chain. Of course, nothing from Campy but again, I don't clean new Campy chains either.

Shimano chains are in extremely short supply nationwide. While not impossible to find, they are difficult. My LBS is using KMC now for that reason. Yes, KMC or Wipperman chains are perfectly acceptable. Some (not me) would say preferable.

though they seem to be a bit hard to come by the YBN chains get great review from Adam at Zero Friction on all fronts from his testing. If you want to take things to the level of OCD Adam is your guy! As also said it seems that there is a shortage of bicycle chains world wide Josh at Silca has mentioned this a few times. I personally think it is a good idea to remove the factory gunk from chains. I am not so certain it is actually a lube as much as an anti corrosion coating.Mineral spirits or Coleman campfuel is a good first solvent to get rid of the factory gunk. then acetone or methanol, air hose, dry it out then lube/ hot wax. I like to heat the wax to more than the boiling point of the last solvent wash, usually methanol just to be certain it is all boiled off.

I'm pretty sure SRAM, Shimano, and Campy recommend you not remove the factory lube. And this recommendation may be based on either incorrect assumptions about the superiority of that lube, or else they assume most riders don't have the technical knowledge to remove it (and they'd be correct).

If you are waxing, though, why not remove it? I mean, if you want to break your chain in like Adam Kerin, MSW, and Ceramicspeed do, I don't think you need 500 miles. I thought it was more like 2 hours. Also, you do wind up with a greasy cassette.

Didn't want to start another waxing thread.

If it's time to wax again, is there a way to get any remaining wax off the chain. Was looking on the Molten Speed wax site but their directions seem to be more how to de-grease a chain before waxing.

Don't think I did a great job cleaning the chain the first time so wanted to strip all the wax then follow the steps for a good cleaning. Wasn't sure if the minerals spirits would get rid of any remaining wax or if I need to do something else first then the mineral spirits.

If you have an hour, you could listen to the Marginal Gains chaincast. Otherwise, MSW is normally recommending you just dunk the chain in the pot of wax without cleaning it, or swishing it in boiling water if you had a wet ride and it's dirty. Adam Kerin subscribes to this school of thought also, and he's been a long term MSW user and seller.

Poertner seems to be coming down more on the side of clean the chain off. If it's just wax, boiling water will suffice. If you have residual oils on there, then I think Poertner said that the citrus degreaser he recommended would do the trick as it would dissolve the wax. You could do boiling water to get the wax coat off, then mineral spirits, then alcohol rinse?

I have not tried the hot/ boiling water to do this but one issue that comes into play is the wax that comes off the chain will go to the surface and then form a film. When you go to take the chain out of the hot water the wax will probably reattach to the outside of the chain. So in fact it may not be the best route to get ride of the old wax and any light contaminants. I am not certain since I have never tried the hot/boiling water to clean approach. I would likely go the route of hot mixture of degreaser and water, this way the wax stays in suspension or solution and then you can do a couple of clean water rinses to get rid of the degreaser and then acetone/ or methanol to dry.

Put the waxed chain in a pot of melted wax to clean it.

Not sure there's a limit for reuse of quick-link.
I have been using the same quick-link for years and only once had a failure. So I carry a spare in my flat kit when I ride outside just in case.
I wax my chain every month or so I would guess, no issues with reuse.

If you haven’t already, go check out molten speed wax. I bought wax from them, asked a ton of questions and they were super helpful

After doing the entire cycle 2x, it’s so easy and fast.

I love that my bike is always clean, quiet and my kids don’t bring oil into the house and run it everywhere anymore (or I don’t get grease on car when I travel with the bike)

The minor increase in time / maintenance is so worth it for me