What chainrings (size) are you running and what size is the rear cassette smallest and largest cogs.

50 big ring 11 28 rear.

Just so I am understanding, you have the high screw tightened all the way and it is not enough throw?

I would just g to a bike mechanic and pay the money if you need to even watch videos and ask for advice to work it out. It would be much cheaper than selling your bike...

the arts cyclery vids are pretty simple to follow as is the set up of a di2 fd sounds like you are adjusting the wrong set screw for the small ring, ie sounds like you are trying to adjust small ring with the large ring limit screw

Okay so here's the deal I truly believe something is not right with the setup. To be clear I have set up mechanical ones before this is just my first shot a di2. When I have my low limit screw on the front derailleur set so that the chain is not rubbing against the front derailleur I cannot get the derailleur to push the chain on to the big ring without messing with my high limit screw to get it to push it far enough and when I mess with that as it tries to push it up into the big ring it just pushes it into the side of the Ring and the whole system binds up I'm currently running about 3 ml of Gap between the cage of the front derailleur and the big ring I had it down to one and I actually kind of scuffed-up the cage when it bind it up

Sorry of this is a dumb suggestion, but have you removed the front derailleur and re-installed it. Could be something related to the yaw on the cage that will correct itself once re-fastened.

I messed with mine a bunch before I got to to work. I didn’t take it in because I wanted to learn something along the way. In the end i learned little and wish I paid a mechanic and spent the time training.

YMMV

Yes I did. And I agree.

Do you have the brace screw firmly against the frame (or better yet, one of those metal stickers)?

Agree, he needs one of the metal plate stickers on there. Same issue on my venge.

A professional mechanic will solve this for you in five minutes. Pay the lousy $50.

I went through this exact situation last week. and I am betting money its a 9150 di2.

They are HUGE PIA to set up. Shimano did away with the High/ Low set screws on the FD, making it a tough road to hoe for those of us who like to wrench our own bikes.

I have set up Di2 on various bikes since gen1, but this 9150 hard as shit to get right. Last week I replaced my Chain rings, BB, put on new cassette and a Ceramic Speed pulley. The RD I can dial in. The FD though was finicky from the get go. I go it sort of right, but there wasn't enough toss from the small to big and the angle on the chain cage was just not right. I finally pulled the 9070 FD off my roadie and got it paired up no problem. Next day took the bike and 9150 FD to the local LBS and it took the dude half the day to dial it is...he said he needed the di2 PC interface to get it right.

Bottom line, take it in and have the tech guys do it right. Tip them $10 so they don't laugh at you when you walk out. : )

Maybe. Maybe the OP's home wrenching is about saving money. In which case perhaps paying the $50 in this case is a smart move. Or maybe it's about learning how to work on his own bikes because a) that can be fun and b) when your bike breaks and the bike shops are closed and your A race is tomorrow you know how to fix it.

No front derailleur takes half a day to setup
I did two of those today.
The are a cinch to setup.

Was trying to do my first complete build on my own (alot of ST help). I do have the little stick on plate for the FD. It does have high/ low set screws. And I guess I'm going to see when a shop can look at it.
Just feeling like I made a bad choice in bike/ components combination.

#Defeated

No, limits are set electronically.
Read this.

http://si.shimano.com/.../DM-R9150-01-ENG.pdf

There are two sections you need to read.
Mounting and mechanical alignment early on, then further down, position and electronic stops down around page 90.

All can be done without hooking up to a computer, just use whatever smarts come on the bike.
If it takes you more than half an hour from scratch, I'd give up and forget about wrenching.
This is very basic well laid out steps and works every time.

Just for clarification this is 9070 not 9150.

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My YouTubes

While I love instructional videos, for my Di2 I have found it much better to go directly to the printed Shimano manual. If you have not tried that yet, it might help. Di2 adjustments are just enough different then manual that old habits and ideas can mess you up. Every time I've gotten my FD out of wack, religiously following the manual's adjustment process fixed it.

The specs are fairly precise. You can try eyeballing tenths of millimeters but it will work a million times better with a set of feeler gauges. Just set everything to the spec tolerances given in the order they tell you to do them and see if that helps.

I don't know if this applies to your case, but on my first attempt to adjust my FD I ran out of electronic adjustment, and had to use different spacers to pull in the drive side of the crank about a sixteenth of an inch to get it working right.

Agreed. Maybe too easy? I've installed the fd of every Di2 since Di2 began. This generation is the easiest and none have ever been difficult. My initial impression with 9150 was that it was too easy . . . it seemed I was missing something, but the derailleur worked perfectly literally right out of the box. (If I had tried to fiddle with it, based on my "too easy" impression, I might have messed it up and ended up like the OP.)

You should be messing with your high limit screw on the big ring. That's the whole point of the high limit screw (to limit the throw on the big ring). If the shift can't throw the chain to the big ring, the first thing to do is adjust the H limit screw to allow the derailleur to move up to big ring.

I get the frustrations (I really do). But there's got to be an error in your set up logic.

I'm not seeing where you confirmed which Dura Ace model your Di2 is. Is the derailleur brand new or used? I'm assuming new but you never know.

I recently put Di2 on my road bike and was able to set it up perfectly (both front and rear) in less than 30 minutes for both. Only took that long total because I was really finicky and trying out adjustments on the rear (like eye doctor's visits....1 or 2? 2 or 3?). This is with a 9070 front and a 6870 SS rear setup. My braze on hanger for my road bike is large enough to use that metal pad for the bracing bolt with no need for the metal sticky pads that come with the derailleurs. Got it setup up with 53/39 Rotor QXL chainrings shifting just fine.

I've had decent success playing around with stuff on my bike and watching youtube videos. The only thing I've ever had major issues with is a FD. I'll be swapping out to Di2 soon and it's the only thing I'm worried about, but hoping it's significantly easier since there's no cable.

I spent hours trying to figure it out on my last bike when I took off the FD to put a chain catcher on. Finally brought it into the shop and immediately they noticed that the bolt and "spacer/washer" that came with the chain catcher threw things out of whack somehow. I couldn't see it, but they did immediately. They used a grinder to knock down a portion that lined everything back up and it shifted great afterwards. It was imperceptible to me, but they see what it takes to get the FD tuned up all the time and knew where to look. It was literally 5 minutes. Granted they don't charge me since I bought my bike there, so it was only the time to drive.

You said you get it so the big ring won't grind but that it won't shift into the big ring, right?

That sounds like it is too far left, towards the small ring. This means that you're likely setting it up to not rub the FD cage in the slower cogs while in the big ring.

Does the Di2 also have the "in between" trim like with a normal shifter? Where you can give it a half click and get it closer?