I'm guessing your list must include features beyond the drivetrain? The two on my list that make Shimano 11 an advantage over 10 are:
1) extra intermediate cog
2) offers more cog range - 11-32 by spec and probably more in practice.

Taking out cogs as the cassette range is increased is taking away these advantages. It works as a legacy fix.

The machining is reversible with more spacers. Or if it fails eventually, a new freehub is not a huge investment.

For 11 speed mechanical: http://www.nashbar.com/...0053_10052_562548_-1

The Di2 spec seems to say the 11-32 11 speed cassette will not work with it?

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

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Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep

But that RD won't work with 11-speed cassettes and 11-speed shifters, well, unless you are using friction shifters ...


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If you use an 11-speed GS mechanical RD, it can work.

But I need the EV pdf for an 11-speed cassette, not a 10-speed.



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The long cage Ultegra Di2 RD version does.

http://www.artscyclery.com/...age-SHIRD6870GS.html

Cool

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Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

Boom Nutrition code 19F4Y3 $5 off 24 pack box | Bionic Runner | PowerCranks | Velotron | Spruzzamist

Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep

Sadly, you were right. Both of my machined hubs failed or showed signs of failure after multiple cassette torque-downs. Fortunately (and as I suspected), there was no catastrophic failure as the Failure Mode exhibited itself during torque down (or subsequent torque downs) during the testing process. Hairline cracks began to appear at the base of the shoulder where it meets the spline. Upon closer examination, I was able to get several of the shoulder pieces to break off in my hand. So, machining the spline down is NOT a viable option. At a bare minimum, taking as much off as I did is not a viable option.

Working on a Plan B... I'll update the thread as I know more.

Some good info to know. Is plan B to try instead to remove some material from the largest cog carrier of your cassette? Because that looks viable from a structural point of view, but, from my measurements, it also looks like the clearance between the protruding zipp hub aluminum spoke anchors (I have a zipp 182 hub) and the inner protruding parts of the largest cog carrier are going to be tight, maybe very tight. Have you measured that clearance? Anyway, if not, there is always a good 'plan C' here.

Greg @ dsw



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I've been trying to stay away from options that modify the cassette because I don't want to have to worry about this after I've done the mod (i.e. don't want to have to machine multiple cassettes in the future).

The question is: What is the main difference between the 11-speed freehub and the 10-speed freehub?? Is it just the length of the freehub and it's I.D.(i.e. axle diameter)? That's the rumor...One thing we do know is that the distance between the dropouts doesn't change.

So, current Plan B is to look at a hybrid of my old-style 10-speed wheel with a new 11-speed freehub and a new hybrid axle. The spoked wheel may have to be re-dished, because this option may shift the position of the rim slightly. However, I'm not even sure this is going to work because I'm not sure if the freehub will mate with the old wheels. But if the axle is the main difference, then designing and machining a new axle is totally in my wheelhouse. Also, not sure how the disc wheel would work with this, since re-dishing isn't an option. I'd love to know your thoughts on this.

Unfortunately, only a Dura Ace carrier can be machined / reduced. The Sram Red cannot be modified. I am examining an old worn out 11-speed DA cassette and might try removing some material to see how feasible this is on a 10-speed freehub.

Plan D is simply to get a campy freehub and cassette, then Bob's your uncle.

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I have Zipps 808 now for about three years. I always rode Campagnolo 10 speed
on them. Now I changed to Campagnolo 11-speed: but I just exchanged the cogs
and it functions without a problem (the 11-speed cogs are a bit narrower, but the
spacing between them is the same: so the overall width of the cog-package remained
about the same).

Am I lucky, am I the only one with whom 10- and 11-speed worked with the same
cassette-body?

Campy yes, shimano no.

Has anyone tried the DSW solution with Di2 RD? Does adjusting the limit bolt to prevent the derailleur shifting to last inside position damage the derailleur in any way?

Yes, worked fine.

Hey Greg, After a winter hiatus, I'm just now digging back into this situation. And I'm now hearing (from guys who have done this conversion) that if you replace a Shimano 182 freehub with a Campy 182 freehub, and use a Campy 11-speed cassette, that it will work perfectly with a Shimano 11-speed set up. Does this seem accurate to you?

not who you asked ... but can tell you from personal experience that this worked for me. No re-dishing required. I would not say it worked "perfectly", but it was very very close, once I got the der adjustment dialed in. There was one cog where, at times, would shift just a bit less crisp than the others. But overall it was not an issue -- and I used in road races, so shifting under load.

I have not tested it, but people report that it works. However, campy 11-speed spacing is different from shimano 11-speed spacing, it is just the difference is very small.

However, making up a hybrid shimano cassette is, in my opinion, easier and better (spacing is truly identical to shimano) and also free (no freehub to buy). That solution is the one I have tested and the one I explained here. Give it a try?

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