I seem to remember seeing this discussed a couple times. Might want to do a search on this forum.
As I recall, SuperDave gave a very short list of brakes that work, and I think some of those tektro's he listed are kinda' hard to find. the DuraAce 7800 (previous model) was one of those which fit (maybe?), but not the new 7900 version.

The bottom line was that the easiest thing to do was to just shave down the brake pads a couple mm each. You'll still have plenty left.

you have to remove the inner washer from the brake pad assembly to make it work. it's easiest to remove the wheel, then remove the brake from the frame to get access to the drive side brake pad allen screw. otherwise, it's right behind the chainrings. once that's done, remove the brake pad assembly, remove the inner washer, and reassemble like this: pad, pad housing, brake arm, washer, allen screw. It's a snug fit, but it works.




edit: to add photographic proof it can be done w/out a new brake or shaving the pads ;)

Yes, Shimano 7800 will work. Also, in addition to the washer rearrangement, there is an adjusting screw on the top of the brake caliper that will slightly widen and narrow the width/grip/stance of the brake. Adjust this screw to open the brake slightly more to accept the wider rim.

---

______________________________________________________
Sub-9 IM. Navy SeaBee deep sea diver. Can Do!

I took my bike over to the Felt tent in Kona last year. The mechanic from Felt did the following to get my new 808FC to fit.

- switched to front brake pads to the rear because they were thinner or more worn
- Ground down the head on the brake pad set screw on the crank side so it would clear the crank - Still has just enough allen head left to function. I have a compact crank so this may not be needed if you have a standard crank.
- Tightened the tension spring set screw inward to make the brake caliper open wider

I still have the washer on the pad carriers but there is not much room left.

You will need to adjust the camber set screw on the caliper (on the crank side) to re - center the caliper too.

If I had a Dura-Ace brake at Kona I would have installed it, but this was the only way to get it working well with the parts we had at the time.

There are dozens of brakes that will work, but I usually recommend Dura-Ace 7800 and TRP T925-1B because they are easier to find.

-SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

I'm using Dura Ace 7800 with an older 808 and have plenty of clearance. I still hate the original rear brake supplied with this bike SD. The fact that is was not compatible with many off the shelf cranksets is a huge disappointment, and as an engineer I'm going to state it is bad engineering.

Other than this one issue, I love both of my Felt rides.

---

--------------------------------------------------------

You will remain the same person, before, during and after the race. So the result, no matter how important, will not define you. The journey is what matters. ~ Chrissie W.

Hey SD - It was a 7800 caliper but I think the compact made it a bit tighter. Dont get me wrong - I am very happy with the mods and service that was provided for me. The only issue with this setup is the rear brake feels a bit spongy and is not very responsive - I bet due to caliper being open so wide - beyond the optimum for performance.

scca, check the cable routing. My rear brake used to feel spongy too. If the loop coming from the internal housing to the brake is long, the loop actually flexes. You need to make sure the routing here is smooth so the housing doesn't flex under tension and the brake is being squeezed hard. I pushed the cable back up into the internal housing some straightening it out and shortening the piece between the frame and brake and viola. It's that simple. You can undo the cable from the brake and trim it a bit too.

---

--------------------------------------------------------

You will remain the same person, before, during and after the race. So the result, no matter how important, will not define you. The journey is what matters. ~ Chrissie W.

I will try that Anthony - Thanks

The next time you are in for new cables/housing use compressionless housing on the rear brake, that will help the soft lever feel.

-SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Superdave, is the TRP T925-1B the same as the T925R on the TRP website. I cannot find the TRP T925-1B model on their website or on any of my google searches.

The -1B indicates the cable housing is routed to the center of the caliper with an additional "link" and routes from the non-drive side and anchors on the drive side. You'll need the -1B suffix.

Regards,
-SD

---

https://www.kickstarter.com/...bike-for-the-new-era

317, nice pic. I see you took off rubber grips on the handle bars and replaced it with regular grip tape. I've been hesitant to do that but I think I will now after seeing your setup.

Your suggestion of removing the inner washers worked but you weren't kidding when you said it's a snug fit. I did shave down the pads a bit on each side.

I'm having issues with the same thin on myu Fuji D6. It comes with the TRP 925 and it does not open widen enough so I will have to shave the brake pads....

I was having the same issues on my Fuji.... I had no choice but to shave the brake pads.....