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Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know?
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I'm about to do my first Campy build. I'm putting a combo of Record/ SR on a Wilier Imperiale road bike. All of my previous builds have been SRAM or Shimano. Is there anything particular about installing Campy that I need to know before I start? Is it forgiving, or does everything need to be torqued exactly? Thanks.


There are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand binary and those with friends.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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It's a bike.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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Quote:
It's a bike.


Thanks. I was confusing it with a lettuce.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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Do you have a long 10mm Allen key?
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [the_thief] [ In reply to ]
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I have a regular length key. Is this for the crank?
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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Not to hijack this thread but how are campys r2c shifters compared to sram. Speaking specifically in regards to durability?
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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One of the best things about Campy is ergo levers can be rebuilt!
I had a pair I put new springs into (economical too) and then they were like new.
Put 40,000 miles on them before selling the bike
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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Yeah. Ideally you have an extended 10mm Allen for torque wrench or a ratchet wrench.

Stubby Allen sockets that come with regular ratchet sets are not long enough. Regular Allen keys are usually to short too. Some people use the long end and use a small pipe or pliers for leverage. I wouldn't try it if your Allen keys have a ball on the long end.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kxvaclp0wtE
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [Fishbum] [ In reply to ]
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Fishbum wrote:
Not to hijack this thread but how are campys r2c shifters compared to sram. Speaking specifically in regards to durability?

The bar end shifters ? Great, I really like mine. Adjustable zero point and if you hold around the shifter as part of your bar (I do), they fit in my hand really nicely.

Swapped the bolts on mine to Ti, two are a custom size.

No probs in 1800 mile to date.

I would post some pics but photo bucket isn't playing nicely with me at the moment.

To the OP - I set all my bike up from new exactly to the campy specs. No problem with anything, I haven't even needed to tweak the cable tension :-)

WD :-)
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [WD Pro] [ In reply to ]
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Thinking about a campy build on a PR6.. Sounds like there stuff is pretty durable.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [Fishbum] [ In reply to ]
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Campagnolo parts are durable and expensive.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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I got the campy build just to be different, but I am coming to the opinion that like for like group set levels they have shimano trumped with regards looks and finish.

I only have chorus but the look and feel of it is very nice (I have XTR on my MTB to compare to and friends on ultegra).

Depending what crankset you want to go with campy have some nice aero options (I have the aero bullit crank) but even there standard cranks look nice. In comparison, whoever did the asthetics of the shimano cranks needs a slap ... (IMO of course ... lol)

Dads got old 9 speed record and it's still going strong and shifting well - very little play in mech pivots etc :-)

WD :-)
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [dcampbell] [ In reply to ]
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dcampbell wrote:
One of the best things about Campy is ergo levers can be rebuilt!

Not any more. I was very disappointed to discover that the latest 11s shifters require replacing the body (includes internals and small lever). So you only keep the main lever and hood cover. In the past this was just a couple of small metal parts to replace to be back to new performance.

And don't ever fall for the trap of powertorque cranks.

But they'll have to make much bigger mistakes than those for me to turn to the dark side.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [cyclenutnz] [ In reply to ]
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NO!!!
Really? That is so disappointing!
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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bazilbrush wrote:
Is there anything particular about installing Campy that I need to know before I start?.

Learn some rudimentary Italian to differentiate yourself from the bourgeois forced to suffer through life with Shimano!
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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They switched to brake lever attaching bolt to Torx a few years back, so a Torx T-handle wrench is nice. I think it is a 25, but I am wrong so often that you should take this info with a grain of salt. The shifter cables also have a slightly smaller end plug than Shimano. You can file down ShimanoSRAM to work, but you can't just put cables you get from your LBS into a Campy shifter. Best to buy an extra set to have lying around.

Seriously though, the Campy stuff lasts forever. I gave up on Shimano after all the component failures. Drive trains that didn't last 3000"miles, MTB shoes where the stitching failed and chunks of rubber ripped off the soles in a single weekend of use Shifters that catostrphically failed. Some people have good luck, especially with DuraAce, but my experience has been horrible. Why would I give them anymore business when they have screwed me too often with hideous quality.

While I am a die-hard Camy fan, I have to admit that the ETap 1x I did on my TT bike is REALLY nice. Let's see if it survives the test of time.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [grumpier.mike] [ In reply to ]
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Rear derailleur has no B tension screw, instead there is a cage tension screw.
Same but different.
If you want to use the Campy chain pin you will need an expensive tool to join it.
Better off using a Connex or KMC joiner.
Cassettes use a different tool, so you will need one of those.
If you want to change BB bearings you will need a special puller to remove and drift to fit.
Be careful when you assemble the cassette as the spacers are all different sizes.
Front derailleur in the lower groups is very sensitive to alignment.
Campy brake cables use a different head. Grease the head when you fit them as they can get stuck.
Make sure you have a long hex for crank and a torque wrench that works both ways if you have Super Record as it is left hand thread on the Titanium bolt.
Campy chains and stuff do not last longer than others, it's just that owners usually do less miles and have them serviced more regularly.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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lyrrad wrote:
Rear derailleur has no B tension screw, instead there is a cage tension screw.
Same but different.
If you want to use the Campy chain pin you will need an expensive tool to join it.
Better off using a Connex or KMC joiner.
Cassettes use a different tool, so you will need one of those.
If you want to change BB bearings you will need a special puller to remove and drift to fit.
Be careful when you assemble the cassette as the spacers are all different sizes.
Front derailleur in the lower groups is very sensitive to alignment.
Campy brake cables use a different head. Grease the head when you fit them as they can get stuck.
Make sure you have a long hex for crank and a torque wrench that works both ways if you have Super Record as it is left hand thread on the Titanium bolt.
Campy chains and stuff do not last longer than others, it's just that owners usually do less miles and have them serviced more regularly.

I have been riding Campy for 15 years on 4 bikes currently, including a NP2. Mostly Record and Chorus, a little Super Record.

Buy the stuff from UK mail order, it is much less than US prices.

Campy chains are worth buying. Use a Park peening tool, it is cheaper. I use mine for 5000 miles, they last 2x others.

Generally once you set up the group well you never need to touch it. They dont fray cables like Shimano does. You do need a few different tools. The Paceline forum is a great place for advice if you have specific questions.

You should not have to replace the crank bearings too often. I have 2 cranks with cult bearings that I have never replaced, over 10k miles on each.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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lyrrad wrote:
Rear derailleur has no B tension screw, instead there is a cage tension screw.
Same but different.
If you want to use the Campy chain pin you will need an expensive tool to join it.
Better off using a Connex or KMC joiner.
Cassettes use a different tool, so you will need one of those.
If you want to change BB bearings you will need a special puller to remove and drift to fit.
Be careful when you assemble the cassette as the spacers are all different sizes.
Front derailleur in the lower groups is very sensitive to alignment.
Campy brake cables use a different head. Grease the head when you fit them as they can get stuck.
Make sure you have a long hex for crank and a torque wrench that works both ways if you have Super Record as it is left hand thread on the Titanium bolt.
Campy chains and stuff do not last longer than others, it's just that owners usually do less miles and have them serviced more regularly.

Good point on the Campy chain tool. They aren't cheap and I have always been a bit nervous about how well I pea end the pin. Get a quick link. I use the YBN links as another option.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [grumpier.mike] [ In reply to ]
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Glad someone fetched the chain issue up ...

I really wanted to use a quick link on my 11 speed campy but couldn't really find anything concrete to confirm they worked ok with no issues - am I defo good to go ?

I had my eye on the connex link if that makes a differance.

Also interested in opinions on using the connex chain - I asked Dan but never really got any firm confirmation.

Cheers,

WD :-)
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [bazilbrush] [ In reply to ]
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Not sure if all the newer rear mech mounting bolts are torx bit (T25/30), certainly higher end ones are.
Also the tool fits from the BACK of the dropout to mount it.

As said earlier, ergo's are torx bolted too; heads are made of cheese and a pita to get at properly. T-Key best solution.

Chains, there isn't much difference in cost between a C11 and a KMC/Wipperman but I've heard from a service centre that they don't like the aftermarket chains because there's no chamfering on the plates, and it "regularly" (their words) causes carbon front mech failure.

That said, I've run KMC's for years quite happily, and also fitted C11 chains using a 10spd joining tool without failure.

If it's a road group, if you don't already know where the brake releases are, get someone to show you. There's lots of neo-users who haven't had it explained....
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [philg] [ In reply to ]
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Campy have a habit of wearing out the inner front ring, this is what tears deralleurs off, it's good old chain suck.
This is usually from the ' my Campy chains last forever' crowd and they then tell you the chain is fine and that you set it up wrong.
Connex links seem to last longer from a point of reusability when opening and closing for cleaning.
If you wax chains the Connex is by far the quietest under full power if you run long between between wax treatments.
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [philg] [ In reply to ]
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philg wrote:
If it's a road group,

Has campy made another foray into mtb gruppos or are they continuing to ignore the offroad market? (Insert dancing banana emoji)
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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@lyrrad

Thanks for the info on the connex.

So in your experience (compared to a campy chain on full 11 speed campy transmission), there no long term negative issues running a full connex chain with regards shifting, noise or anything else that might be critical ?

Cheers,

WD :-)
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Re: Wrenching Campy - anything I need to know? [WD Pro] [ In reply to ]
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My experience says high end KMC chains run the quietest on Campy in normal use.
There is nothing special about Campy chains apart from saying Campy.
Shimano also run well. So do SRAM.

The Connex seem to be the tightest chains and I think this is why they run well with very little wax left on a chain, the others can get a bit of roller chatter under high pedling loads in those long between maintainence conditions. They are also super clean and shiny looking.

All of the current chains have various chamfers that are very similar to each other.
It's not like days gone by where if you put a Sedis chain on Shimano it would eat the chainrings.
All of the drivetrain cogs, chains etc are very similar now, Shimano invents them and everybody else dodges the patents the best they can.

Campy chains tend to be expensive, so heaps of riders run other chains with no problem.
The expense is simply a volume thing, not an engineering, manufacturing thing.

Everybody says that clusters are all interchangable, but in reality Campy and the others run different spacing.
SRAM and Shimano have consistent spacing accross the block.
Campy doesn't and if you run the others it will shift fine and won't cause a proper problem, but it will run a little noisier due to not always being centrered on the cog.
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