Unless you aren't unhappy with your position on the bike and can't attain it with the bars you have I would just get the wheels.

Do you have a powermeter? If no, get one of those on shorter cranks than you currently have. And Ergo armrests
If yes, the main advantage of race wheels is that they have race tyres on, so will have a larger impact on speed than bars.

Are wheels or bars the only options?

The P2's biggest performance weaknesses are the cockpit and dirty cable routing.

If you are going for speed, then the Tririg cockpit is probably your best choice. Close to that is aero brakes.

After that, I would do the wheels. But, I would put a disc on the back. It is what you will probably want eventually anyway. My first wheel upgrade was a 60mm front and 90mm rear. Soon after I got them, I wished I had made different choices. I eventually upgraded again to a 90mm front and disc rear.

either of your options will be good. if you're very focused on getting faster, as others say the cockpit may be a better upgrade for your particular bike. wheels may have extra bling factor.

i second the one poster's recommendation for a power meter as an upgrade, especially if your goal is to get faster or stronger as a rider. you can get a single sided model (pedals or crankarm based) for under 500 probably on the forums here, and still have some money leftover to get other upgrades as well. I don't agree with the other poster that shorter crank arms are inherently better, that is a largely personal thing.

at the end of the day, you can't go wrong and i would advise just getting the upgrades that excite you the most and make you love looking at/riding your bike (unless your goals are purely speed/fitness-based, in which case you should consider a power meter)

^this. TriRig cockpit knocks out two issues. 60/90 upgrade would be a poor choice if you decided on wheels. I would do 60/disc personally but 90 is great if your confident and/or limited crosswinds winds where you bike

If the fit isn't working.........cockpit.

If the fit is working......wheels.

I say that because despite some dirty cable routing, the original wheels might be leaving a lot on the table in terms of possible CRR gains from modern size tires on aero wheels. Pair that with the aero gains, and it's something real. I bet only 23's and at most 25's are aero optimal on those original P2 wheels. Modern stuff are optimized for 25, 28, etc.... Real CRR and comfort gains to be had there as bonus for any aero gains you get.

Otherwise, from my recent outdoor testing.........helmets are still proving somewhere to spend more money on than you think you should even if you think you have a decent lid. You may lose some money reselling what tests slower, but the differences were bigger than I thought. I posted some results in here disappointed at first, until others pointed out that the difference was larger than I was inferring.

I hated the cable routing of the bike - I have the same one - and went with the Zipp Vuka Alumina when I got it. Not the most aero - but it was at the time price wise really good. So...what about the Hed Jet RCs with a reasonable aluminum upgrade? Two birds, one stone?

The cabling on the original cockpit is moderately ridiculous. I have a pretty clean little bike now...

---

DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

Power meter is definitely my next priority. I have been training exclusively indoors on a direct drive trainer with power meter. Outdoor rides have just been my fun rides and to work on bike handling. Don't have any races targeted with everything getting cancelled in my area, but I will definitely get one before I race.

These aren't necessarily the only options. These are just some components I've been wanting to upgrade for a while. Am I overlooking something else?

Just focusing on the bike, these are my recommendations in priority order:

1. Tires & latex tubes (Continental GP 5000 are the easy tire choice)
   
2. Cockpit
3. Aero brakes
4. Cleanup cable routing
5. 90/disc wheels
6. Power meter*
7. Electronic shifting

The power meter astrisk is for when you start racing outside, but it is not as important since you are training to power already. And electronic shifting is really nice and a logical upgrade when you feel like your 105 drivetrain is showing some wear.

If you do the Tririg bars you're going to probably need to get electronic shifting as well to maximize the benefits. Might as well throw on the front tririg brake.

That would be a pretty potent upgrade.

If you wanted bars that were a little more mechanical shifting friendly and as fast as the TriRigs (ask me how I know!), you could go w/the Profile Aeria bars

That would be the first thing I upgrade especially since it's an upgrade that you'll ride every ride where as race wheels get broken out of the closet 6-14x / per year.

Having owned both bars the tririgs are a whole lot easier to adjust & travel with. A whole, whole lot.

Then I'd worry about race wheels. If I did buy race wheels I'd buy the deepest front I felt like I could handle for the majority of my racing. I find my Hed jet 90 to be fine 95% of the time, ymmv. The deeper you go up front the more likely I'd be to run a disc in the back to make the handling easier & the bike more stable.

I think with tires/tubes/race chain are things that you can invest in here & there as you get closer to race time. A chain you only use for racing is probably good for 3-4 seasons. Break it out, install it, race it, take it off, clean it then store it for the next race.

If I didn't have a Giro Aerohead helmet or a Poc Cerebel I'd also invest in one of those two helmets.

All the above is going to get you close to fully optimized for racing. For training a power meter is a pretty helpful tool assuming you know how to interpret & utilize the data to help your training or are willing to pay someone to do that for you.

hope that helps you think about things

---

Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

I'd go wheels first 100%. Looking cool will make you faster, or at least you will feel faster. I can't wrap my head around spending big money on the cockpit and then riding dorky training wheels.

I also agree on a new lid like the Giro Aerohead.

I’m not sure why you believe this to be true. Alpha One works equally well with both electronic and mechanical shifting. For mechanical shifting, we usually recommend routing your housing external to the extension, just hiding it under bar tape and then letting it dive into the base bar cavity from there. You end up with nearly the same hidden cable look, while preserving as much slack as possible for adjustments, and retaining the ability to remove or swap extensions without recalling.

---

--
TriRig.com

Because a good aero cockpit makes you a lot faster, while wheels only make you a little faster.

Who's to say he can't dial-in his optimal position on his existing cockpit or at least get it pretty damn close?

Without knowing more about you I don’t know.
Coach?
Skin suit?
Bike fit?
Running shoes?
Swim training?
Helmet?
Saddle? (That facilitates the bike fit)
Tubes and tyres?

It has nothing to do with position. The performance difference is the slipperyness of the cockpit itself. The Tririg is best, and the stock P2 cockpit is one of the worst.

There's a huge drag reduction with going to the Profile Aeria or TriRig bars over the OEM P2 bars. He can achieve the same position on any of the three but the the OEM bars will have way more drag vs the other 2.

It's a solid bang for the buck investment.

---

Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

Brian, is there anything in the budget category that you would recommend? Be it aluminum or...something a little south of $1000? I have the zipp vuka alumina which probably isn't great, but $1000 is on the steep side for my 2015 P2.

---

DFRU - Detta Family Racing Unit...the kids like it and we all get out and after it...gotta keep the fam involved!

Care to quantify that with actual data? Best I could find is that is saves 6w. That would be a very expensive watt reduction if that's all you will save.

I still think he'd be better off with wheels, a bike fit, tight fitting tri suit and aero helmet.

desert dude above is an expert who works with people in wind tunnels, so he knows from first-hand experience what makes a rider faster.

Your other improvements (fit, tri suit, helmet) are all good, and a better cost/performance ratio than most other upgrades. But, between cockpit and wheels, a top tier cockpit is better than wheels for a stock P2.

Trust Brian Stover's comments. And here area couple example links that compare different cockpits and different wheels.
https://www.tririg.com/...mp;page=windtunnel_2
https://flocycling.com/pages/aerodynamics

Can you quantify the savings from a change of wheels and then do a quick performance to expense calculation?
At 6W for a cockpit that costs less than most sets of wheels, it's probably not a bad decision, especially bearing in mind as Brian said, that the bars will stay on the bike for every ride whereas the wheels may not.
Good tubes and tyres are the obvious first port of call, well ahead of wheels on the list. Ideally latex if typical terrain suits, given tubeless is not an option on most stock wheels from 2015. Wheels are probably the most visible and blingy upgrade available. That combined with the ease of buying and installing them, makes them most common upgrade. That doesn't make them the most sensible. Then again, sensible is not always the point!