Depends on how you look at it... Shocker Bontrager is the best in a Trek test ;) But also, it's likely the bike was designed around those wheels, so makes some sense.

That said, the Bonty A9 with a cover is probably pretty solid. The other usual suspects as well.

I've got a crappy 7 series (1st gen) and the duotrap was nothing but a pita. I started just removing all the guts and shaving it a little bit... earlier this year I got fed up and just totally removed everything and repaired it... made it considerably easier to mess with without worrying about the bulge rubbing. (of course you lose the duotrap itself and also need someone competent in carbon repair to go that route...) I found most wider discs would fit after removing the rubber grommet and shaving it a little bit, but there were still marks on my wheel after out of the saddle accelerations and some hard sprints.

An interesting idea to "bond" a cover would be to lay a thin piece of structural'ish paper/thin coardboard (cut into cover shape) then lay up a layer or two of carbon (or fiberglass I guess) on top of that, then vacuum bag it (you need the structural piece underneath to keep the fiber from sucking in between spokes) - you could even use a space saver bag and vacuum on the cheap... to pull the cover in as tight as it could get. Then "bond" it to the existing wheel fairing with hot glue/tape/etc. That way you could still get to the spokes without it being a big deal.

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

What all goes into actually shaving down that duo trap? when you start getting into removing carbon I get a little leery especially on a brand new frame.

(fwiw I've only worked on the older 1st gen bikes, so things may have changed)
I would start with just removing the duotrap and the rubber grommet, that's what will get you the most extra space without modifying.

At that point you'll have to assess if the particular wheel is still rubbing. If it's very, very lightly rubbing, you can get away with lightly sanding (or even shaving with a sharp enough edge) the protrusion to give you just a mm or so.

If it's still actually rubbing considerably, either the wheel is going to be a no-go or you're going to need to have someone that does carbon work remove it to do it safely.

Finding a wheel that works with it happily as-is may be the most "sensible" option... but what fun is that...

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com

Are you actually running the duo trap sensor that sticks out and not just the dummy one? Most fitment issues are with the sensor that sticks out and not the dummy one but I could be wrong.

If you are running the actual sensor, do you really need one? I assume you have a gps bike computer.

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Just the dummy one that came with the bike. Rubber grommet is still in but not sure it will work even with that off

Gotcha. I believe there have been folks that have ran disc covers with no problems. I’m sure it’s buried in the SC thread somewhere. I’ve seen a few of the TFR pro’s run a disc cover but most just run a rebranded zipp super 9 disc on their sc.

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I ran an aero jacket disc cover on a flo 90 with a 2013 speed concept.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

I run XXX6 front and XXX6 with an aero jacket rear. The only issue I have is that the chain will rub if it’s in the smallest gear. I use some of the grommets, then electrical tape the edges to make it as tight as possible.

Feels fast to me. Lol

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

Yeah I'm sure you're right but trying to find anything in that massive thread sometimes is it real pain.

this thread delved into it fairly deep

this is how mine looked after some more extensive work. (pre paint of course :D :D)

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My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com