Can you post pics or dm me...

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

The front brake cable never ever slides into its original working condition. I’m about to remove all the plastic coating... it always gets cut/mangled and inevitably never slides back in.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

I think that stop may be the issue. I turn the housing out of basebar and have the stop on the wedge that fits in the stem.

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

I have now fixed the front brake. However, now the rear brake is messed up. I think the angle of the cable is screwed up and not letting it bounce back. It seems like the cable gets caught. If I hold the brake cable at a “better” angle, it snaps back automatically. Considering I’m getting on a plane Thursday morning, there isn’t enough time to recable... I’m guessing I’ll be racing with only a front brake.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

Calm down man and take a deep breath. It’s really not that complicated or difficult.

Curious to know why you are backing the front cable so far out where it’s not even fed through the fork? What case are you using that you need that much slack? From the picture it looks like the cable was getting stuck on the housing end (metal piece).

Recabling the rear brake is less than 10 min job (not including housing). But that doesn’t sound like you need to do that. With the rear wedge and cable in its normal position, loosen the rear brake wedge so the cable twists to its natural position. Then retighten the wedge so the cable pulls straight. Watch for the pivot points on the rear brake as you engage the brake. I’ve often found the one side isn’t rotating well and causes the issue you are seeing. Take off the rear brake, clean up the pivot points and lube them. That usually does the trick.

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The premier bike case. I originally bought it because I wanted to avoid this basebar issue (which I dealt with previously). Unfortunately, the bars (measure at 45cm) are too wide to sit in the case without pushing hard on both sides of the case. The case is for bars 42cm or less. I can zip it up, but there’s a *quite* a bit of pressure on the base bar.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

I have the same case. You don’t need to do what you are doing. It’s a tight fit but it’s manageable. I don’t even disengage my front brake wedge from the brake. I just take off the mono bar/extensions.

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You’ve never had a problem with the basebar breaking? That’s what freaked me out the most when I zipped it up the first time. If it’s tight, but safe, I’m happy.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

Never had a problem after several trips with the case and I've never been concerned about it. I do put two pieces of extra padding (styrofoam) on the bar ends just for piece of mind. There's already padding inside the case so not sure if this really helps or not.

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Well damn. Someone else in the Premier Bike thread chimes in and showed me how to properly measure the base bar (I.e. center to center). I wish I would have just waited until the morning to get feedback before I disassembled the entire front end. I got it back together and it should work for Gulf Coast this weekend, but I’m getting new housing out in when I get back.

Seriously, thank you for the help.

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@floathammerholdon | @partners_in_tri

Happy to help. Any of these “super bikes” with integrated front ends require a little finesse to get just right. If you spend enough time working on the bike and after a bunch of banging your head against the wall (trust me I’ve been there), you eventually figure out how to get it worked out.

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