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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [srev] [ In reply to ]
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Any update on whats coming out?
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [BryanD] [ In reply to ]
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Has anyone encountered problems with the seat mount - its a little fiddly but on one side the screw does not tighten, it does not look long enough but is the same size as the other side

i thought it was a one off but my wife also bought the same IA 16 frame and on one side it is exactly the same, in fact, it will not tighten at all and is not safe to ride

i will take both to my LBS but i should not have to
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [UKINNY] [ In reply to ]
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Did you strip the screw? This happened to me twice already.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [IronStork] [ In reply to ]
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thanks, what do you mean by "strip"

i did note some metal shavings when i was looking at it

cheers steve
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [UKINNY] [ In reply to ]
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UKINNY wrote:
thanks, what do you mean by "strip"

i did note some metal shavings when i was looking at it

cheers steve
Stripping a bolt or a hole is when you shear the male portion of the thread from either the bolt or the hole so that there is nothing left to engage with. It's caused by over-tightening the bolt. If you keep tightening and at some point it takes less, not more force to keep turning the bolt, then you've gone too far and stripped the thread.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Ai_1] [ In reply to ]
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same thing just happened to me, even with a torque wrench. this seems to be a pretty common issue. LBS says they've already replaced two others
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [jazzymusicman] [ In reply to ]
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jazzymusicman wrote:
same thing just happened to me, even with a torque wrench. this seems to be a pretty common issue. LBS says they've already replaced two others
I think I may have damaged mine slightly, also using a torque wrench below the max allowable. Thankfully I think I stopped in time to get away with it. Haven't disassembled it since to investigate since it's currently holding fine but I felt a bit of give and suspect I was starting to deform the thread. Must be VERY careful if I have to adjust it again as, if I'm right, it will now be weakened further. the threads in the receiver are clearly softer than they should be for the specified torque.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Ai_1] [ In reply to ]
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I stripped two screws (no torque wrench) and I was hardly even tightening them. I mean they were at the point where they weren't tight enough that I would feel comfortable riding on it. I think the quality of the screws just blows, which is a major downer cause I can't even seem to get my seat level and have stopped trying for fear of stripping the screws again.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [IronStork] [ In reply to ]
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IronStork wrote:
I think the quality of the screws just blows, which is a major downer cause I can't even seem to get my seat level and have stopped trying for fear of stripping the screws again.

This x10. I feel this is an area were felt did some cost cutting, because, while I've not had problems with the seat post screw, I ended up stripping the stem cap bolt, and the seat stay adjustment bolt is on it's way there.

This is pretty sad, given it was a 2500 USD frame. And I was even using a torque wrench, and followed all torque indications!
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [UKINNY] [ In reply to ]
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Really weird, we sold a huge amount of IA's but never experienced these issues.

Tri-Run

Owner at TRIPRO, The Netherlands
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [IronStork] [ In reply to ]
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IronStork wrote:
I stripped two screws (no torque wrench) and I was hardly even tightening them. I mean they were at the point where they weren't tight enough that I would feel comfortable riding on it. I think the quality of the screws just blows, which is a major downer cause I can't even seem to get my seat level and have stopped trying for fear of stripping the screws again.

Check the quality of the tools.

-SD
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Synnove] [ In reply to ]
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Synnove wrote:
IronStork wrote:
I think the quality of the screws just blows, which is a major downer cause I can't even seem to get my seat level and have stopped trying for fear of stripping the screws again.


This x10. I feel this is an area were felt did some cost cutting, because, while I've not had problems with the seat post screw, I ended up stripping the stem cap bolt, and the seat stay adjustment bolt is on it's way there.

This is pretty sad, given it was a 2500 USD frame. And I was even using a torque wrench, and followed all torque indications!

Using a wrench doesn't help you if the tool is rounded or worn.
The titanium bolts that hold the seatpost are not a cost-saving measure. The custom head and material are ~300% more expensive than a standard shallow-head stainless or 8.8 Cr-Mo CP bolt.
The T9 Torx bolts on the covers are also exceptionally expensive and lock-tite dipped so they won't rattle loose when turned to the recommended "finger tight" amount.
The stem cap bolt should be used to preload the bearings. It is a long 7075 CNC machined aluminum counter sunk bolt. It's a weight savings effort that is carried all the way down to the IA16 from the original IA FRD platform. If you want to use that bolt to cinch the entire front end assembly, use a steel bolt first to draw it all tight, anchor the stem bolts, then replace the cap bolt with the alloy jewelry.

-SD
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [SuperDave] [ In reply to ]
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SuperDave wrote:
The T9 Torx bolts on the covers are also exceptionally expensive and lock-tite dipped so they won't rattle loose when turned to the recommended "finger tight" amount.
The stem cap bolt should be used to preload the bearings. It is a long 7075 CNC machined aluminum counter sunk bolt. It's a weight savings effort that is carried all the way down to the IA16 from the original IA FRD platform. If you want to use that bolt to cinch the entire front end assembly, use a steel bolt first to draw it all tight, anchor the stem bolts, then replace the cap bolt with the alloy jewelry.

-SD
Thanks for this post. The macro answer is that this is a bike shop training issue. My LBS over-tightened the cosmetic stem cap and crushed the rear brake cable. This caused horrible rear brake performance that contributed to a wipeout on the bike. Knowing that bolt should be locktite and finger tight helps a lot. I plan to loosen it right away. (I have already replaced the brake cables and left that bolt looser than I found it, but I will make it looser still.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [SuperDave] [ In reply to ]
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SuperDave wrote:
The stem cap bolt should be used to preload the bearings. It is a long 7075 CNC machined aluminum counter sunk bolt. It's a weight savings effort that is carried all the way down to the IA16 from the original IA FRD platform. If you want to use that bolt to cinch the entire front end assembly, use a steel bolt first to draw it all tight, anchor the stem bolts, then replace the cap bolt with the alloy jewelry.

I'll concede to being incorrect in my conjecture vis-a-vis cost cutting, however, I can't help but feel a bit burned by the cap bolt completely stripping out when tightened to the recommended torque spec. The tool used was an accurate wrench and a allen key that was fit for the job. Thankfully, I happened to have a more sturdy bolt on hand that allowed me to still have a usable bike.

What do you say about the dropout adjustment screws? While one is perfectly fine on my frame, the other is so tight that the key walls of the bolt have become deformed due to the torque needed to turn it, after just one adjustment! If those allen key walls deform any more, the only way I'll be able to get the bolt out is to pay a Felt dealer to drill it.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Synnove] [ In reply to ]
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Synnove wrote:
SuperDave wrote:
The stem cap bolt should be used to preload the bearings. It is a long 7075 CNC machined aluminum counter sunk bolt. It's a weight savings effort that is carried all the way down to the IA16 from the original IA FRD platform. If you want to use that bolt to cinch the entire front end assembly, use a steel bolt first to draw it all tight, anchor the stem bolts, then replace the cap bolt with the alloy jewelry.


I'll concede to being incorrect in my conjecture vis-a-vis cost cutting, however, I can't help but feel a bit burned by the cap bolt completely stripping out when tightened to the recommended torque spec. The tool used was an accurate wrench and a allen key that was fit for the job. Thankfully, I happened to have a more sturdy bolt on hand that allowed me to still have a usable bike.

What do you say about the dropout adjustment screws? While one is perfectly fine on my frame, the other is so tight that the key walls of the bolt have become deformed due to the torque needed to turn it, after just one adjustment! If those allen key walls deform any more, the only way I'll be able to get the bolt out is to pay a Felt dealer to drill it.

Remove the screw, tap the hole, replace with a new set screw. It should have never left the frame maker if the bolt didn't turn freely and then it should have never left the assembly factory if the bolt didn't turn freely and it should have never passed QC if the bolt didn't turn freely nor should it have left the shop if the bolt didn't turn freely.

-SD
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [SuperDave] [ In reply to ]
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Fair enough. I guess I'll have to meander back to the dealer to get the matter remedied.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [SuperDave] [ In reply to ]
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Hey SuperDave,

Can the 3T difflock inner ring be tapped? That's my current issue with a stripped piece
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [jazzymusicman] [ In reply to ]
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Went to pick my new IA16 from the lbs and look what I found.. A new one is on the way.

To dumb to quit
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Chief2Slo] [ In reply to ]
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A new what?
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Synnove] [ In reply to ]
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Hmmm, picture didn't post. A new bike. The one I orderd had Huge crack on LH chain stay and LH dropout scratched to hell. Now I play the waiting game again't :/

To dumb to quit
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [jazzymusicman] [ In reply to ]
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jazzymusicman wrote:
Hey SuperDave,

Can the 3T difflock inner ring be tapped? That's my current issue with a stripped piece

No but just the inner part can be replaced.
-SD
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [ In reply to ]
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Hi - Is there someone who have installed a dash saddle on his IAxx? It seems that mine doesn't fit very well with the 3T seat clamp probably because the round carbon rails of the dash saddle are too wide. Any thoughts on this would be very welcome? thanks!
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [ In reply to ]
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Update on stem compatibility: I *think* the Thomson X2 stem should fit; with the dust cap on, the top of the steerer tube is about 6mm away from the top of the X2 stem. Could be a good option for those who want a no rise stem, as the Dagger stem is not only rather heavy, but is rather expensive and available in only one length.
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Synnove] [ In reply to ]
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Want a single bolt brake on your IA's direct mount rear posts? Order up a Specialized Magura adapter!



The holes in the adapter are just big enough to accommodate Shimano's direct mount spacing (and TRP's for that matter). To mount it, you'll first mount the caliper to the adapter, and then mount the adapter to the frame. Make sure your caliper is centered as you'll need to remove the adapter to recenter it. Getting the adapter bolts tightened to the frame is tricky, but you can hacksaw an allen wrench such that the short end is made short enough to get at the bolts while clearing the caliper.
Of course, if you've an FRD or 1 - 4, the rear brake mount is already single post!
Last edited by: Synnove: May 20, 16 23:25
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Re: The New Felt IA - IA 10, 14, 16 [Synnove] [ In reply to ]
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Hi, did you order the adapter from magura or specialized???
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