Let me shortcut this process for you. Get a "trail" bike, which is an all around type of MTB, and skip the hardtail - get a full suspension. It's a much better experience. I'm not familiar with any decent full suspension bikes for $2K though. $3K and you have a lot of choices.

The real trick is finding any entry level MTBs for sale due to COVID. Maybe check Canyon?

If you're looking for a fun, easy to ride mountain bike I'd suggest a 29'er hardtail plus bike like this one.

https://salsacycles.com/...20_timberjack_slx_29

Hardtail keeps it less expensive. 2.6 tires makes it easier to ride. SLX 11 speed shifts great.

Once you ride a good full suspension mtb, you will never want to go back to a hardtail. A hard tail is not even in the same league.

Between the last two posters, it's essentially what type of terrain you will ride on, and what kind of ride you'll preffer, that will decide if you would be better off with a "full-sus" dedicated trail bike, or if a 29'er hardail would be sufficient. A double sure is a more forgiving ride, and allows easier-faster riding in the trails, while with a hardtail your body has to "work" more to compensate the absence of rear suspension.

Louis :-)

While I agree with what you're saying, I don't know of a full suspension bike under 2K I'd want to ride. That's why I suggested a 29+ hardtail.

At 2K, maybe find a good deal on a full suspension but now might not be the best time for that.

I have a really nice full suspension MTB (Trek Top Fuel 9.9) and a decent hardtail that's now singlespeed (Stumpjumper carbon). I'm faster on the full suspension, but when it comes to level of enjoyment i wouldn't say the full suspension is more fun. I have an equal amount of fun on both bikes.

If you just want to have fun, I'd personally say get a hardtail 29er. I'd probably do a chisel comp (specialized) because it suits my local trails and XC riding style, but they have a Fuse comp that has "trail" geometry and more travel on the front fork. The fuse also allows 27.5+, which could be fun for you, depending on what your trails are like.

I'd try to get Deore or SLX components if you go shimano or GX if you go Sram.

I think you are right. It's just that after years of owning an IF hardtail ("26"), I got to ride a loaner S-Works Stumpjumper (FS) for a couple days and was enamored by it. When things looked rough ahead, I just banged right through it and the bike just seem to float over about anything. And the rear wheel stays planted. My IF is simply not in that league however, it is an older 26". I suspect a modern 29" hardtail will do fine. But that Stumpjumper.....

Okay, there's a lot of "what kind of riding will you be doing." I guess this is the best way to explain:

Here's the local park (not my video, not me riding):

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-----------------------------Baron Von Speedypants
-----------------------------RunTraining articles here:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...runtraining;#1612485

A few 'basics' then if you've not had anything new since 1998.

In 2020 (or 21) nearly all will be '1x' ie no front mech and 1 rong up front And 11 or 12 out back with a big range. (Let's not grt into whether that is a good thing... but it is THE thing).

Hydraulic disc brakes at virtually any price point.

Two wheel sizes. 27.5 ("650B") or 29"
The traditional 26 is near dead (certainly on all new bikes for 4 or 5 years).

Most folks run tubeless. Just as with road bikes, be aware most are set up as tubed from the shop.

As someone 6ft 3" either wheel size works for you. 29 roll a bit better. But not quite a nimble when it gets tight and twitchy.
(For shorties, 29 can sometimes be a bit unwieldy / the size of 2 wheels can sometimes (not always tho) compromise the geometry.

Geometry... long / low / slack ! It does make the bike WAAAY more stable and you don't feel like you're always an inch from going over the bars.

Tyres ? Wider ! My 2.35" are almost seen as old stool skinny in some places. 2.4 to 2.6 is quite common.

Absolutely NO bar-ends !!!

Dropper seat posts. They really are worth their weight in gold if you can get one on / with the bike (telescopic seat post that goes up / down like an office chair, with usually a lever to actuate on the bars.).
Best 2 things ever in mtb ? 1. Disc brakes. 2. Dropper posts.


As far as the full suss vs hartail.
I have both. What I would say is that at your budget, a full susser will probably have some compromises on it in terms of fork / suspension. Or longevity. Cheaper (less stupidly expensive) can need more maintenance and then sometimes unavailability in parts when you get to things like suspension internals.

Depends also what the weather is like where you are. Dry Arizona ? Not a problem. Piss wet through Britain (or BC or Oregon etc) then that tends to find out the weaknesses in cheaper suspension (and especially pivots).

Also whilst some stuff is lighter, the mtb world has mainly stopped obsessing with weight-at-all-costs and values function and good ride character over flimsy noodles these days. (Tho the $10k XC race bikes are ludicrously light !!)

Me ? As 1 or 2 have already said, At the $1500 mark I'd be getting a hardtail with a reasonable amount of travel on the front fork. Because sadly whilst its a lot of money still, you'll most likely get a heavy pogo stick that needs too much maintenance.
I'd defo rather have a hardtail with a dropper post than a full susser without one.

At $2k there just about starts to be 1 or 2 full sussers..but not the 'big brands' like Spesh or Trek.

Take a look at this article on Singletrack for some calibration (yep British-centric as it's British !! But gives you some ideas still about where it's at).

https://singletrackworld.com/...-reader-awards-2020/

For info, Sonder are a UK based Co that are sort of direct-sell (tho they have a handful of real shops too - they are part of a British outdoor gear Co called Alpkit.


Hope this is of some help.

And Enjoy the ride !!

I'm riding a Scalpel 3 and it's a lot more bike than I really need but holy-crxp it floats nice over everything. I put a 2.6" tire on the front this year and it's even better.

I came from a 26'r Cannondale RZ One Twenty, which was good as well and was under 2K in 2011. After I put a Fox Fork, built up new wheels and upgraded to Shimano M8000 it was terrific but that put it well above 2K. In fact I think the only original things on it other than the frame was the brakes, rear shock and seatpost.

I put a friend on a Specialized Rockhopper Expert this year, it's OK. I had one in the past and it's nothing like a full suspension bike but his budget was under $1K so we got what we could.

I put another friend on a 27+ Timberjack, her bike was small enough for me to test out. It wasn't like riding my bike but it floated over sand with those 2.8 tires. Running them at 16 psig made it really soft and easy to ride.

That's an apples to oranges comparison. Of course a 26" hardctail is going to suck comparedvto a 29" full sus.

I have a Trek Superfly CF hardtail. I like it for anything but the most rocky stuff. If I know I'm in for a lot of rocks, I ride my fat bike. If you can fit a 2.6" tire on the rear of a hardtail, you'll benefit greatly without the complexity and price of a full sus bike.

Barry, I'm also 6'3" and 205lbs. I went a few years without mtb'ing and got back in on a Cannondale Trail hardtail 29er in 2015, after breaking the frame a couple times I bought a used Specialized Epic.

The change to 29 inch wheels was significant, they really do roll better over rough terrain and the added weight is minor.

The change last year (for me) to full suspension was astounding! We have a lot of rooty and rocky terrain like in parts of the video you shared, the Epic feels like I am cheating. As a bonus it keeps me riding longer even with chronic back problems.

To summarize, get a 29er for sure and consider spending more money to get full suspension.

Rich

Thanks.

So right now it sounds like I'm looking at:

A) Decent quality hard tail

B) Budget full sus


One of the comments above said that the problem with the budget full sus is going to be long term wear. I'm honestly thinking that this is going to be something I ride maybe 10-20 times a year. So that makes me inclined to go with option B.

Sound reasonable?

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-----------------------------Baron Von Speedypants
-----------------------------RunTraining articles here:
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...runtraining;#1612485

Most budget full suspension bikes have a weak fork/rear shock and heavier wheels. Functionally they work as well as their more expensive siblings but don't have the suspension dampening and are heavier. Components are really good these days and the M7000 line works really well. I have no experience with SRAM components.

If you are looking for a full suspension bike include the Trek Fuel and Giant Anthem line of bikes in your search as well.

My needs are similar to yours. I had around $1500 to spend, live next to a park with a lot of rocky trails, but a lot of smoother stuff, too. I have zero trailbike experience. so, the local bike shop talked me out of used full suspension, and sold me a trek roscoe 7. it's been a hoot! I can ride over all but the scariest obstacles, and it's a good full body workout. The midfat tires add a lot of suspension, or, at least, enough for me. a friend hopped off his fs bike, got on the roscoe, and was very impressed. He thought it was a perfect first bike, with a whole lotta room to grow. He's thinking of buying one, due to the fun factor. BTW, I am 195 lbs, with disc issues in my back, and this bike allows me to ride without pain. Have fun shopping and riding, whatever you choose.

Your thought process ended up exactly where I thought it would, because you presented a common situation. And I think you’re looking at it the right way.

I’ll reiterate my advice from the first reply in this thread. Skip the hardtail and get a full suspension. It’s a better experience and you’re more likely to use the bike and stay in the sport.

I started with a hardtail, rode that for a year, then bought a full suspension “trail” MTB, in part with the idea of having two MTBs for both my wife and me. I liked the full suspension so much better that I sold the hard tail and bought another full suspension MTB (XC bike this time).

My story is comically common. You’ll buy a hard tail and then start wondering about a full suspension. My advice is to skip that step.

There are decent full suspension bikes to be had under $2k but it will take some good shopping skills.
Here is an example of a very capable FS bike for under $2k
https://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/faultline-a2.html

It's a bit on the heavy side because something has to give to get it under that benchmark price, but everything that is important is good quality.
It has name brand everything, no house brand junk,.
Shimano Hydro brakes, WTB Tubless wheels, nice shock/fork, Dropper post (yes you want a dropper post)
A bike like this should give you years of fun and reliable riding.

Something that hasn't been mentioned, but set up on these bikes is hyper important, I have ridden lots of bikes and a super nice bike that doesn't have the sag and air pressure set up properly to your weight and riding style will ride worse then a decent bike that is totally dialed. so ideally a local shop that knows mountain bikes.

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http://www.instagram.com/cyclewise

Barry,

You should surf the buy/sell page on PinkBike, which is essentially Slowtwitch for mountain bikers. Under the XC (cross country) filter there is an XXL Santa Cruz Tallboy. It’s a 2015 frame, but it is full suspension carbon and comes with upgraded components throughout including carbon wheels and dropper post. You can likely haggle a bit and get him to your budget.

I’m 6’4” and the XXL Tallboy frame fits perfect. Great do it all bike for trails or racing if you get into that.

No affiliation to the seller, but that’s a lot of bike for the money that would serve you well for many years to come.

I would highly recommend full squish.

I am a Trek guy so that's all I recommend. I love riding all trail types except for the extreme downhill.

The new Top Fuel would be the ultimate do all very well bike. The experience that bike would provide for you would be worth the $? That's your call.

The Fuel EX is a bit more slack yet and the older models ammore like the new Top Fuel.

You seem like the perfect candidate for a couple year old Fuel EX. Cost savings over new. Still a super capable and very comfortable bike. Service intervals for your riding quantity is a non-issue.

I am going to ride bikes 25,000 miles this year and I am a roadie at heart. I easily have the most fun on the MTB and I certainly am by no means an expert. I have scars everywhere and a helmet split in 2 that proves that! Enjoy!!

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24 Hour World TT Champs-American record holder
Fat Bike Worlds - Race Director
Insta: chris.s.apex

The trail centers in my area look very comparable to what you posted. My opinions (I say again: OPINIONS) here:

There are many options at your price point. Pinkbike did a "2K trail bike" roundup earlier this year with several good options:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2IWmU55BiLM

While I love full suspension bikes, I disagree that full suspension bikes are the "only way to go". It really depends on the trails you ride and what you personally like to do. A hardtail can do a lot once you learn what it's capable of, a hardtail can certainly handle the trails in that video. Also, I debate that "most people buy a hardtail, move to full sus and never look back" idea. Many of the most experienced riders I know, people with several mountain bikes and decades of riding experience, relish a good hardtail on the local trails. Again, this is 100% dependent on local conditions and personal preference. Keep in mind that I'm not riding Squamish-style gnar or Moab slickrock around here, I'm riding flowy/pedally hardpack single track in the woods like you see in the video. YMMV.

With both full sus and hardtail I'd get a 29er, especially at your height. They roll slightly better and it's where the industry is going.

Get something with a dropper post. Speaking personally, dropper posts have revolutionized how I corner and descend. You'll quickly learn that getting the damned seat out of the way makes everything easier, faster and more fun.

Tires are really important. Tire choice is entirely dependent on personal taste and conditions. I would 100% recommend tubeless, it dramatically reduces the number of flats you get. I ride mostly 2.4 tires. I personally love Maxxis tires, they have a huge variety of offerings. On both of my bikes I run a grippier tire up front and a less grippy but faster tire in the rear.

Don't forget to include budget for a mountain-bike specific helmet (tougher and more coverage), shoes, pedals, gloves etc.

When first learning try to ride with someone who is experienced and knows the trails. You'll be able to see how they ride and which lines they pick both of which are really helpful.

Looking at that video, I’d go for a full squish for sure. I don’t think you need a ton of travel, but certainly enough to take the edge off those rooty and rocky sections. 100-120mm travel in the back is more than sufficient.

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A few additional thoughts/notes.
Mountain bikes have moves do far away from what they were in 1998, in fact I ride a bike from 2016 and it already feels way outdated.

Most things have already been covered, but just to emphasize, Tubeless and a Dropper are deal breakers, so plan your budget with that in mind.

As far as HT vs FS, yes you can ride most technical trails on a HT, I ride with guys that are way better then me that clear stuff on HT's that I can't clear on a FS, however you will much more fun and much less back pain if you get a FS, so unless you want the lightest race rocket that weighs 20 pounds then you should be shopping for a full squish, at the end of the day it will just be more fun, and that's what it's all about.

Lot's of solid insight here.

29er with a dropper, 1x, and hydraulic disc brakes. Hardtail below $2000, FS over $3000.

Our family fleet has a 27.5+ hardtail ($1800), an expensive ($5K) 29er FS 115/120 and a moderate ($2200) 27.5 FS with 120/120. I'd ride the hardtail over the moderate 27.5 FS any day. The 27.5+ HT is the best on techie climbs. It's agile and you can run those plus tires at stupid low pressures that grip like glue. The moderate FS bobs up and down when climbing and it's annoying as hell.

You can get into a really solid Trek Fuel E5 (FS with 130/130 shocks, Aluminum, Dropper, 29'er, Decent components) for just over 2K now.

For an extra $100 you can get a similar Specialized Stumpjumper with even better shocks, decent components etc...

Both are very solid bikes.