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The Problem: Routing the rear brake cable through an aereo bar and a frame that has and internal routing results in very bad brake lever return action. Using a Dura Ace (double spring) brake and a well lubricated standard brake cable set results in about a week of trouble free braking....after that the cable sticks.
Any solutions (besides rerouting)? Has anyone had success using teflon coated and/or aluminum casing cable sets?
John Bogdanski
I've had similar issues. Unfortunately this setup usually means that there's lots of fairly tight bends in the brake cable and housing. For me it usually only gets bad after I ride in crappy weather. Gunk just has a way of getting itself into the mix. The lube I've started using and that I like quite a bit has teflon in it. (I can't remember the brand off the top of my head, but it's in a green can) The only advice I can offer is to use the lube liberally and to clean your bike after riding in grimy weather. After rides, you can also try to work some of the teflon lube into the ends of the housing. After all, it's usually at the entry points of the housing that grime starts to build up.
I have the same problem with my back brake lever. In my case, I have those reverse bar end Diacomp levers. A bike shop owner told me just the other day that those don't have a return spring and are notorious for sticking, escpecially with internal routing. Apparently Profile is coming out or already has out a set of levers that will include the return action spring.
dave judice
Please post if you find anything that works. I'm have the same problem
For cabling and sticking brakes my mechanic uses a graphite based lubricant. It is apparently available from auto supply houses and is a little pricey. However, we went through my cabling before LP and even after the crappy weather I'm still working smoothly.
Mark
back breaks??? don't need 'em on those flat south Louisiana roads