Any.

Start with a clean drivetrain. You want to get all petroleum residue out of there.

It's fine to start with a used chain. Probably easier to do the initial clean - nothing's stickier than factory grease.

Not noticeably faster, barely measurably faster vs. a well-maintained and cleaned petro-drivechain. This is more about making maintenance and cleaning easier. Efficiency is a bonus.

Thank you.

Is there an easy way to clean the derailer cogs?

I started this a few months ago and bought a $10 crock pot on amazon as well as an ultrasonic cleaner. I think it was $65. I followed the instructions on the Molten Speed Wax website and I haven't looked back!

Sure. You can just use a little brush and some soapy water. It doesn't need to be as rigorous as cleaning the chain. Just want to get dirty oil residue gone.

I am a big advocate for waxed drivetrains, but there are different levels of craziness that you can employ. For an A-race chain, just follow the Molten Speed Wax procedure with a good chain.

If you just want a clean efficient drivetrain that doesn't pick up all the grit and grime of chain with regular lube I have a short cut that is much easier. Start with a new chain so that you aren't doing a full cleaning. Put some mineral spirits in a screw top jar (maybe 3-4 oz) and toss the chain in. Shake it around a bit and let it sit for a couple hours. This will remove all the nasty grease from the factory. Pull the chain out and wipe it dry. Then put it in another jar with some alcohol (3-4 oz). This removes the mineral spirits and any remaining grease/petroleum gunk.

You can now wax the chain, but the even easier route is to use the Premier wax lube, which is less than 20$ for a huge bottle. This stuff is probably just wax with a solvent carrier and some molybdenum/other secret sauce ingredients. Slather on a couple of coats and let it dry (i.e., the solvent evaporates) and you have what is basically a freshly waxed chain. I used this shortcut in my gravel bike and it works great. Just wipe any dirt and mud off the chain and apply a new coat every now and then. I have hundreds of miles on the same chain on my gravel bike and it is still not gritty. On my road and TT bike I do a full clean and wax the first time I use a new chain, but just use the Premier stuff after that, which is way less hassle than re-waxing.

Go to Molten Speed Wax website. All the info that you need

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

What master links do you guys all use?

Looks like for my ultegra 11 chain they are $10ish apiece?

I think these are single use only - are there any multi-use master links?

I use the YBN links on all my chains. They are good for 5 uses and I haven;t found any compatibility issues. A quick search turned up a pack of 6 for $3.25

Where are you finding them for $3.50? I'm only seeing what looks close to that price on some European sites (so shipping probably would make up the difference). I've used the Connex Wipperman links in the past (they have no upper limit on reuse) but they're $30 a pop, so if there's an alternative that's way cheaper, I'd be interested in giving them a whirl. Otherwise, will probably buy the Connex replacement chain when my current chains need to be replaced (the chain w/ link is only $60)

Wippermann Connex Link is reusable and you don't need tools to install.

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What's your CdA?

https://www.amazon.com/...-times/dp/B00VK7NRZM

Those are showing as $17 for me.

I’m guessing he meant $17/6 = $3

Go to Zero Friction Cycling website. More than enough info!

Sorry I was faked out by the web site. They show the package of 6 links and below it says "as low as 3.25".

My guess is that the lifespan of the Connex link is only the same as a chain. It is probably money well spent for someone who exclusively hot waxes for the life of their chain. I hot wax a chain only a couple of times (new, important race, I am waxing the chain on another bike so I just do them all). The rest of the time I use the Premier lube. I probably only wax a chain about 3 or 4 times during its lifespan so it i cheaper for me to use the YBNs, not to mention that they are much cheaper and easier to install than the stupid Campy chain pins. Those are $10 a piece for a one time use and you have to peen the end, which requires a special tool. I never feel comfortable that I did it correctly.

I have read this about the low use quick links but I use my links many times with no issue. I am using SRAM chains. I asked a mechanic at a LBC and he said you can reuse them as many times as you like for the life of the chain.

Lyrrad posted this in the other thread. Which is an interesting idea because if the basket to lift the chain.

https://www.amazon.com/...578237074&sr=8-2

Personally, I have this :

https://www.amazon.com/...578237232&sr=8-2

I'd almost worry that 900 watts would be too much, but I guess it depends on how well the temperature control works. I'd probably prefer something that can't overheat the wax and a cooking spider like https://www.amazon.com/...;pldnSite=1&th=1 ( can always keep using the spider if the $10 crockpot dies)

Not sure why. 900w isn't that much. The Flashpoint for wax is about the same as cooking oil. So, any dangers (or not) with wax are the same as cooking oil. Thus the same thermal protections and product safety features are still valid for the wax.

Further, lyrrad is already using it... And he knows his shit. So, any concerns I might have had at being a first time user have been alleviated by that fact.

For 25usd, I may just donate my crock pot to the wife! The 900w heating element probably let's me get done faster.

I had the wrong memory of paraffin's flash point (395° F) from melting wax for canning where you'd use a double boiler setup (so maxing out at 212°). Canola oil gives you at least another 50° of buffer, but frying is usually around 350-375° at most and there's no reason to get nearly that high. Retracting my concerns 🙂