***Update:
The riding dead - Zombie
I heard people say don't do it...but I got the frame fixed, a local surfboard shaper who fixes my surfboards (I ride a 9'2 on reefs so it happens) worked on it and its whole again.
I have a SHIV now for IM's but I am thinking of turning this into a roadie with the Barmac i saw on sale in the specialized outlet part of the website. It will get a new paintjob as well.
The front will remain white, the rest carbon and matte black. I will paint the insides neon green. and tag it with "zombie" to remind me of the airtime I had when that car hit me.
Scary bro.


Will post pics of finished death trap after I pick it up at the shaper.

---

-----------------------------------
Swim with swimmers, bike with cyclists, run with runners. Train with those who are hard to keep up with. Soon you will be hard to keep up with.

Did you upgrade to Electronic or bought a new one? I was thinking of going Ui2 after this season but the Trans isn't built for it. Was also thinking of getting a PM but realized I don't want to track another measurement so I'm leaning on just going electronic for next season as an upgrade.

Quick question, Will the zipp firecrest 808 fit the rear ok?

FC404 fits no problem, I think the rim widths are extremely close. That being said, if you're using a narrow rim now, you'll need to open the brake spacing up.

---

I'm just this guy ya know?

Just joined the mafia.. Bike is being built up but I want to get rid of the Rival cranks that came with it... I'm researching different cranks, but the specialized website is vague in what Bb is on the 2011 Comp.. The cranks say gxp but I'm not sure if there was a bb30 cups on it or not. Does anybody know the bb? I'd love to run an Sworks crank

---

The only easy day was yesterday.

2011 Comp is a 68mm English threaded BB. No good way to run the Sworks crank. Fortunately, there are a lot of fantastic cranks (including not worrying about the one you have and putting that $$ elsewhere)

http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bikes/archive/2011/transition/transcomp#specs -- States threaded bottom bracket.

Welcome to the club, however. :)

---

The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock

Derf, thanks! I was looking too low at bottom bracket where it stated "comes with crank".
And I guess I was a little bit vague about the reason for changing cranks, looking at getting a crank based power meter. Would love to run a Rotor quarq or SRAM red quarq.. But powertaps low price is pretty tempting too.. Will be posting pics once it is built up

---

The only easy day was yesterday.

Rotor makes a bottom bracket to change a BSA to a bb30, I have one on my Tarmac. It is wider than the bb30 on a shiv, just a fyi. http://www.rotorbikeusa.com/..._bottom_bracket.html

True, that's an option.


To my knowledge, though, the Sworks crank has never been made with a long enough spindle to run on such a BB. Would work for either of the desired crank-based PM's.

Given the option between a 24mm crank (of any variety) and a 30mm crank with a bbright-compatible length spindle, I'd be inclined to go with the 24mm spindle diameter. The overall impression I'm given is that it just works in pretty much any circumstance (provided the right adapters).

I'd actually discourage using a powertap on a Transition. The chainstays are so tight to the spoke that the wider NDS flange spacing of a powertap is such to drive one mad. At least with a disc cover.

---

The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock

Yep, 808 FC fits fine.

---

***

Riding the Awesome Train With: Dark Horse Coaching

Derf. If I ran a powertap laced to standard aluminum rims would it be a problem? Talking without a disc cover.

---

The only easy day was yesterday.

For those with a Transition and wanting to upgrade to Di with a full internal install without any wire splicing, etc.. it's really not that difficult to install and it ends up looking really clean. I installed Ultegra Di a few months ago on my S-Works Transition. I'm not a bike mechanic but I was able to figure it out.

First off.. the round internal battery happens to fit perfectly in the Transitions seat post (and I really mean perfectly.. like it was designed to go there.)
FD and RD wires will run inside the internal cable housings.. I know many people have said they don't, but they do. It takes a little time to get through a few of the tight turns but eventually you will get the wires installed. I used the RD cable i removed to pull the wire along in the housing.

In my case I just pushed the top of the cable guides into the frame so that they now end internally near the fork/steerer. I ran the battery cable from the battery to the fork/steerer area (it isn't in a cable guide.. just running inside the frame.) I removed the fork which allowed easy access to the inside of the frame where I located the 4 way internal junction... then I ran one wire from there out the top tube (one of the 4 holes) to an external junction box which I located on the side of my stem hidden from the wind behind the base bar. I went with the break level shifters as well.. so 4 wires from there go out to all the shift points. The system works great.. makes the Transition feel like a new bike again:).

So... don't be afraid to tackle this little project and don't let anyone tell you that a fully internal di install on a transition is impossible (or extremely difficult) or requires wire splicing.

---

______________________________________________
Team Zoot

No disc cover, no problems. :)

---

The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock

Thanks for sharing your Di2 installation. I'm interested in doing the same and have a couple of questions:

For the FD wire, did you use the FD internal guide, or the one that emerges under the downtube, in front of the rear brake guide? If the FD internal guide was used, did you drill out the exit hole? It's only sized to fit a cable through. How did you deal with the internal FD housing stop?

How did you 'pushed the top of the cable guides into the frame'? Do you mean unplugging or cutting the guides from inside the frame, underneath the 4-hole top plate bonded on the top tube?

Yes, I used the FD internal guide. I drilled out the hole to be big enough (which I was going to have to do anyway as I still hasn't had the needed modification on my frame to replace the stuck cable.). I never plan to go back to non-di so wasn't worried about it (why would you ever go back?)

For the cable guides, I just pried around the edges of the cable guides where they come out the plate (the round holes) with a thin screwdriver.. the plastic guides run all the way up the holes so you just need to figure out what is plastic and what is part of the meal plate.. it's rather obvious.) Once lose they push down inside rather easily if you use a larger screwdriver or just reach in from the openings with the fork removed and just give them a yank. So they guides are intact inside (they just end in the frame vs. outside) so you could easily pull them back into place if you ever wanted to.

Here's a link to a few photos of the install:https://onedrive.live.com/...amp;ithint=folder%2c\[/url]

---

______________________________________________
Team Zoot

Morning sunrise in Miami as I break in my new zipp disc. Yup, those are magura hydraulic break set on there too.

---

You can't buy happiness but you can buy a bike and that's pretty close.

------__o
----_`\<,_
---(_)/ (_)

Thanks. I had thought that the FD housing stop would be somewhere near the bb, and not reachable from the hole. It's a mystery to me where it exactly was.
From your descriptions, I take that the FD housing stop is right at the FD exit hole, so enlarging the hole removes the stop, and the di2 wire plug could pass through the internal guide without hindrances.

Hi,
recently I noticed, that one arm of my rear brake on my Transition wasn't opening correctly any more after braking.
I tried greasing it without disassembly, but that didn't work, so i took the brake arm off. Turns out the spring mechanism was full of dirt and the plastic housing torn up a little.
As a temporary fix (had a race this weekend) i removed the spring and put a rubber band around the brake arm that does the trick.
But
1) where do I get this spare part (Just the plastic housing and the spring)?
2) is it even user replaceable (it seems tricky to get the spring back onto the frame and under tension...)?
3) is the shiv-brake also compatible here? Seems they upgraded to a V-Brake style design on the back, while the front looks identical albeit black...?
4) Would triRig be a good alternative...?

I realize I could go to my LBS, but I bought the bike used and like doing most things myself. Also I'm not sure if that would be a pretty standard repair for them (not a tri-specific shop)

---

if you can read this
YOU'RE DRAFTING!

http://www.trpbrakes.com/products.php?catid=190

Thanks!
I was actually already on that site checking out the T922.1 which seems to be a possible replacement if I don't go the spare-parts route...

---

if you can read this
YOU'RE DRAFTING!

I know this picture is two years old... But I'm very curious as to what kind of stem that is?

---

The only easy day was yesterday.

TriRig Omega SV works well, I replaced the front and it's been great. I'll be replacing the rear soon too once I've healed up from my injuries.

Any pictures with your new ride? Curious how it turned out

littlefoot wrote:

Any pictures with your new ride? Curious how it turned out

Well, it is in my garage waiting on some parts. I will convert it to fixed/flipflop and use it to ride to work in 2015.
I already got it up and I have some wheels, but there are absolutely no fixie parts available where I live.
I need a rear wheel. I do have some coasties which I want to convert to fixed, so I really only need a rear hub and maybe spokes.



Question for the transition mafia out there, has anybody build a fixed transition? The rear is super wide and carbon so not bendable.
What kind of hub would I need for this bike and how does it need to be built? I know fixie wheels are built different because there is no cassette, but not sure how.
Is it cented compared to the hub or does this depend on the frame?

Any help is appreciated, but yea, the zombie is getting up slowly.

---

-----------------------------------
Swim with swimmers, bike with cyclists, run with runners. Train with those who are hard to keep up with. Soon you will be hard to keep up with.

Since this thread's been resurrected, thought I'd post pics of my finalized build: