Here is mine, it´s screaming for a Zipp disc.

larf, I love your front wheel, it is exactly the one I want :D Are you satisfied of it? My front wheel is your rear one, I'm glad to ride with it but I envy to try a Zipp 1080 :( You've got a very nice bike! I just stay a little bit surprised when I see the Shimano shifters because the materiel used is aluminium, the others are in carbon. I expect you to say that it won't be a big difference between an alloy shifter and a carbon one but I regret to see that Shimano doesn't make as much innovation as Sram on TT components.

Please let me know if you don't understand me, I never use translator to improve myself in english but it might not be the best way to be understood I guess.

Marc

Hello, the 1080 is a fast wheel, Zipp states that the new 808 FC is even faster but I am not even close to the FOP so I ride what I like most, period. You have to get used handling it in windy conditions, it´s a little like sailing. Carbon or aluminum shifters are just the same for me, carbon being better looking though.

Sharp. Transition is a sharp looking ride...only reason I'm getting rid of mine is I realized I should be riding the next size up.

My transition

Why is the transition PRO off the Specialized website??????

The colour is wonderful and really rare I think, I've seen only one time a Transition with this white and blue colour!

She got some new shoes (that I finally fitted some rubber and cassette on) so I had to take some pictures. Forgive the filthy bike, a bath is this weekend

Interesting the way you have the saddle so far back...is this for UCI compliance so you can still race in TTs?

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IG: idking90

That's not so far back. It's an Adamo...the front 2.5 inches isn't there.

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

Here I have been a member for 2 years, and it took this long to post this picture. Built this bike during winter of 2009/2010, and everything on this bike came from the markdown table at the LBS, or from ebay (starting with the frame at a 40% discount) . The only thing i am annoyed with is the color scheme of the seat post. I had to get a longer seatpost, and the only colorway available was the 'team' colors, so no way to match the rest of the bike. Oh, and the other thing to be choked about, the seat post cost 30% of what the frame originally cost!

Thats Ok, its a damn fun ride!

Look ma, no cables

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Ride Scoozy Electric Bicycles
http://www.RideScoozy.com

Hey there
I'm just about to pick up my Transition, and was wondering how your disc cover goes? I've got HED Jet 6's but noticed on Wheelbuilder's website that the Transition is incompatible with their disc cover.
Any tips so I don't go get something that doesn't work...
Thanks
Nigel W
PS: Photos will follow once I pick the bike up on Friday :)

Yeah...apparently that's their general response to folks looking to run a cover in a Transition.

That said, it all depends on the particular hub (and its NDS flange location) and also requires one to tape the cover to the spokes from the inside. Do a search here and you should find out all the information you could ever want to know ;-)

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http://bikeblather.blogspot.com/

thanks, it's i think a 2010 saxobank team model. got it in singapore.

I'll look into that then, thanks Tom.
This is my new Transition, with wheels on. Only thing I'm changing is the saddle, got a white one on order.

Upgraded the wheels on mine. Ready for my first full in 10 days.

Where is your computer on this setup? (with the bottle between the aero bars)

Love these bikes!! If anyone has a small they are looking to get rid of let me know. Frame or complete bike.

Got car doored on the really expensive! 2010 S-Works Transition :(.

pics:

https://picasaweb.google.com/...Gv1sRgCLvttI-r0dyITA
https://picasaweb.google.com/...v1sRgCPb0sN_onP_M0QE

My renters insurance through Allstate covered it. You owners with EXPENSIVE bikes NEED to have this. Now, I wouldn't even ride unless my insurance was up to date. Do you have the $$$ to replace your bike out of pocket?

Mine cost $135 per year with special sports equipment added. It covers $10k max, $2.5k max single item (frame/module with depreciation).


All I have to say is after the mountain of insurance paperwork and physical recovery, I went with a Trek Speed Concept 9.9.

Main reason for the switch (FYI for Transition Owners):

-I can now adjust my brakes at my handlebars (while riding!), and it doesn't take me 1 hour and two same size hex keys to adjust them properly (as on my S-Works Transition).
-Also, not that it makes a lot of difference in triathlon, but the even the S-Works version of the Transition isn't the lightest bike out there. Extra weight only helps if you're like me (~124lbs) and need the help to catch the big guys on the downhill :).



Hopefully this helps someone out in the future, biggest thing is don't learn the hard way that insurance is cheap and worthwhile when you go down on your expensive rig!

-Jeremy

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"I believe every human has a finite number of heartbeats. I don't intend to waste any of mine."
-Neil Armstrong

Try this again....

This is my winter project where I got the idea from 'timtri13' . I wanted the orange inside the forks, but after finishing the paint job, I am second guessing myself. The finished project will look like some version of the last picture with grey logo and 'S'. Let me know what you guys think of the orange.

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2014 --> IMFL 70.3 / IM Augusta 70.3 / IMFL

did you follow the same process as timtri13 to remove the paint and decals? also, what was your painting process? did you use a primer first and how many coats of the flat black? please continue to post pics of the process. thanks

Originally I ordered Carbolift, and followed their process to remove the paint. (brush on thick, wrap, put in front of heater...etc), but it did not work well with the clearcoat and portions of the really thick paint. It did work very well with some of the thinner logo paint, it stripped it right off in less than an hour, but places where the paint was really thick like the front fork where the aluminum met the carbon I put at least 4 applications and even left overnight in front of a heater and it still wasn't coming off. It made a really big mess... imo

I resorted to 150grit sandpaper to get the rest of the paint/clearcoat off, and once i broke through to carbon I moved to 320grit so not to eat the carbon up. I then followed that up with a 650grit really light over the whole bike to really smooth it off. Once it was completely sanded smooth to my liking I cleaned it off with denatured alcohol until the cloth was completely white with no carbon residue.

My original plan was to strip the bike and take it to a body shop to have them paint it. They quoted me $200 if I had everything stripped and brought to them in pieces. I decided to try it myself with $40 in spray paint and if it didn't work out i would take it to a professional.

After doing a lot of reasearch online and talking to a few body shop guys I bought Krylon Fusion (flat) spraypaint. I did not have to put a primer on with that since it bonds to the material like a primer. I used a whole can on a practice piece of plastic to make sure i knew how far away, and how long to spray without running...etc. Once I felt comfortable with spraying it took it to the frame. I put on 4 coats of flat black over a couple days, using 650 grit sandpaper on any blemishes in between coats. The black turned out better than I could have imagined I would do, really smooth and no blemishes....I then turned to the masking....man that was a pain in the rear. long story short there are a couple places where the tape lifted and I had some underspray, but was able to fix most of it with a 1500gr sandpaper. I felt better about my taping job after visiting my LBS and seeing some of the same problems I had on a 'professional' paint job.

I was really pleased with the outcome. Now if I can just get my vinyl stickers done, it will complete it. I ended up saving $160 on a paint job, which is going to upgrading my components. Next purchase SRAM Red RD...

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2014 --> IMFL 70.3 / IM Augusta 70.3 / IMFL

Is there a reason to use the front bolt for the seat as opposed to the rear bolt other than comfort of position?