im trying to get more drop on my bars. Looks like you were able to flip your stem to drop yours. I am unable to do the same because my brake hanger is too close. Teh cable is already being pinched. How did you do it? did you just move your brake hanger to the side. Cant really tell with this picture. Please let me know. thanks.

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

I see what you did now. You took off your on the fly adjuster and the threaded thingamajigger.

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

  
When you say standard stem, please explain. Sorry im a bafoon when it comes to turning wrenches. Also What size thread in boss do i need and do i get this from the same place as the hanger? Thirdly, what number is it in the picture? What is the bottom number on the sticky? Thanks for all the help. Is this easy to do yourself?

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

Standard 1 1/8" steer tube stem. You can't just remove the sleeve from the stock stem and use it...wrong diameter. The part number to order is W70940011 from your Specialized dealer's waranty dept. (or call the waranty department directly). Ignore the bottom number. I didn't bother with measuring the thread size since I fabricated a sleeve from spare parts at home. When you pick up the part, just have them supply you with a cable boss that will fit (from their spare parts bin). Easy to do.

Steve

where did you get this paint job? bike looks sick, nice work

Just received the part. how long is your stem? Looks like the angle that i want to achieve. Any recomendations for stems? I want super light yet strong. Any idea what i would be paying for one as well. My LBS is looking into some options as well.

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

The photo you are referencing is the setup before I switched out the brake hanger (that is the original 100mm Specialized adjustable stem set to -16 deg. (I think that's correct?)). I am running a -10 degree 100mm Vision Sizemore right now (below) with my Vision bars (~50$). You can definitely buy lighter, but a 20% lighter stem is 20% of a really small number to start with...

the stem that i currently have on my bike is a 80mm with between a 8-10 degree rise. By me switching out the brake hanger and then getting a stem and flipping it over essentially giving me a 8 to 10 degree drop, will i have to get a longer or shorter stem to keep the same distance between my armrests and seat?

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

So if I understand your correctly, you are moving from the 1cm standard drop hanger to the low-profile, deep drop hanger, right?

You currently have a 5mm top cap & 10mm hanger height. Moving to the integrated, I believe total stack will be 5mm.

And then you want to take your 10° drop stem & make it a 10° rise?

If all that is correct, you'd be well served to play around here: http://alex.phred.org/stemchart/Default.aspx

Set your control as 73° steer angle, 80mm stem, +/-10°. You can play with the spacers & stem angles to see how much stack/reach you get from each iteration of adjustment.

So, in essence, if you have this:

80mm stem / 15mm spacer / 10° negative rise

and go to this:

80mm stem / 5mm spacer / 10° positive rise

Your new position will be 6mm shorter in reach & 17mm higher in stack.

Correct on few accounts. Yes moving to the deeper drop hanger. I wanted to do this initially to flip my stem upside down get get my bars even lower, not higher. So instead of a 10 degree rise, i wanted to have a 10 degree drop. I think i am saying that right. I want lower bars is the bottom line. Through the process i have found out that i need a different stem as well because of the steering tube diameter. So i am under the impression that i need to replace my stem becuase it does not accommodate the integrated drop diameter.

with all this said, i was curious wether or not i needed a longer or shorter stem. I want to maintain the same distance between my arm pads and my seat however just be lower in the front end.

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

I'm pretty confused about what your current setup is & if you want to keep it the dimensions the same or change the fit.

Either way, go to the site I linked. Enter as the red stem your current fit. Ie, 80mm / whatever rise/drop you have / spacers.

Steerer angle is 73. Assuming you are using the cane creek headset cap & the 1cm brake hanger, your spacers should total 15mm.

Now play with the blue stem until you get the two stems to basically match, within reason. Your new spacer amount should be 5.

ie, if you are right now at 80mm -10, and you go to a 80mm -7, doing the spacer swap, you will be 2mm longer, 5mm lower.

just playing with the link a bit this is what i came up with. I currently have a 80mm stem with a 10 degree rise and a 5mm spacer. I am going to get a a 80mm stem with a negative 10 degree rise and take out the 5mm spacer. This will generate a 33mm drop and extend my reach by 10mm. With that said, I will have to move my seat up on the rails a bit more to have the same distance between my arm pads and my seat. did i make sense with all this? Really appreciated the link by the way. this is exactly what i was trying to figure out.

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

you should be getting a stem that accommodates your desired fit.

not altering your saddle placement to accommodate your front end.

Start here: http://www.slowtwitch.com/...de_Bike_Fit_649.html

Stem is the final variable (and will likely get longer in your case...which is good since I would think that it would get twitchy down in the aero position with an 80mm stem...and with too little weight on the front wheel, would cause speed wobbles and wind gust issues with my H3's, ...but I digress)

Start with station angle per Slowman's tutorial. Buy an on-screen protractor (~$40) for your pc, and "tune" your position step by step. Reason being is that there are a lot of scenarios and a lot of unknowns that would make my recommendations useless.

If everything with your fit is currently perfect except for a larger than ideal hip angle...then you can likely get away with doing what you've proposed with the understanding that your forearm-to-pad interface will be a little more toward your hands (more elbow hanging off the back of the pads and a slightly larger shoulder angle).

If everything with your fit is currently perfect except you want to present less surface area to the wind...then you will rotate your static position around the bottom bracket and buy a stem that meets your forearms in their new location (likely slightly longer and definitely angled down).

If everything with your........there are a lot of scenarios. I would need your measurements and pics, but following Slowman's tutorial is where I would probably start if you are new to this. It's fun, and causes OCD.

If everything with your fit is currently perfect except you want to present less surface area to the wind...then you will rotate your static position around the bottom bracket and buy a stem that meets your forearms in their new location (likely slightly longer and definitely angled down).

It is the above scenario. Just want to flatten out a bit so i have less wind resistance. based on the number that i ran. Just sticking with an 80mm stem and going with a negative 10 degree rise versus the positive 10 that i currently have, this will lengthen my reach about 10mm. So with that said i will not have to get a new stem. Plus even if i wanted to keep the same ratio from my arm pads to my seat all i would hav to do is move my seat up. I am aware that this would rotate my entire body position over the bottom bracket in whick i am definitely ok with. I find myself riding way up on the nose anyways when i am cranking it out. Wouldnt mind having a bit more surface area to sit on.

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"If you are green you will grow. If you are ripe you will rot"

Hi folks,

I'm a new member on this forum. My name is Marc, I'm french (nobody's perfect...) I'm 22 years old and a student in a business school. I guess it is a good summary!

Then, go to the important point which is : I'm also member of this mafia.



I've done a few changes on it since this photo was taken ; No big changes, I've put Nokon cable housing and changed my old Look pedals for the aero ones.


Oh yeah! I'm going to change my Campagnolo components to replace them by SRAM RED. My Campagnolo shifters suck and that's why I've bought the R2C SRAM. For now, I'm waiting for my Shimano freehub which will replace the Campagnolo one.

I hope I'm understandable (I cross my fingers for that)

Marc

Understood you fine Maarc. Welcome. What are the specifics of your rear disc wheel? I like the graphics.

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http://www.EpixGear.com

DougRob,

Firstly, I'm happy to be understood. Secondly, my rear disc wheel is a Reynolds Element. Usualy, this kind of wheels are tubular but I've chosen a clincher version. You will find some details on this address:

http://www.reynoldscycling.com/..._item&p_itm_pk=9

I'm extremely happy of that wheel. I'd like one day to buy a front wheel Zipp 1080. Spoke wheels are great, no doubt but I'd lie if I told I wasn't curious.

I've just seen your website, that's a very nice passion in deed.

Here is a pic of my Transition after a 5 hour ride on the Blue Ridge Parkway and off into a number of valleys. It is a great place to ride.

Très beau Marc! Je suis un peau jalous! Une fois que vous avez installé RED il va être encore meilleur!

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Coaching - Future Endurance

Il ya un peu de rouge. Mais, ce qui est mieux et fera un grand changement? Seule ma force et non pas quelque cassette? Il est rouge, mais pas tous. Je suisen français au Québec maintenant et la circonscription de la montagne. Il semble, sans tout rouge, je suis stong comme un taureau français.

Thank you very much! I'm seeing that many people speak french :D

Drswammy: You're absolutely right, RED SRAM won't make me a better biker but I hope that it'll make me better shifting that's all. I also wanted something quite light, that's the second point which decided me. When you buy some very expensive peice, I think it's normal to hope something great and beautiful but it's just a point of view.

For your photo: Yes, it looks like a great place to ride. I can see that your wheels are Zipp. I'd like to try their wheel because every one says that they're great...

Steve_c: Many thanks, I'm a student, I work in a job a 15h a week, it allows me to buy things whixh improves my bike weeks after weeks :D I can't wait to ride equiped with the R2C on it!

Marc

Holy SH%T. I don't care if Pee Wee Herman is pedaling this bike, he would stil look cool and fast.

how did you get this paint job? i want it!