when I ran that combo, I did not put any spacers on the drive side. only on the non-drive side and I did not use the threaded spacer thing, but rather a wavy washer with the spacers.

I've got that set up on my road bike, and I think I have a 'bearing shield' up against the range Rotor bearing seal on each side, and then 1 wave washer on the non-drive side. I've only had that set up for several hundred miles, but seems to be working well.

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Tim Anderson
"It's the nature of the internets that you get some dweeb who knows nothing about (insert topic here) pontificates about (topic), believing that his/her opinion is worth the same as opinions from those who actually knows what's going on." --Echappist

Thanks for the help. I looked at it again this afternoon and turns out I didn't readjust the low/high limits to account for the new chainring position. Works pretty well now.

Actually, I just red closer, and realized you have an Elsa and I have the Riken. The Riken (at least my model) is on a SRAM S975 crank. What crank is the Riken on? I know with mine, there was no way the 5mm driveside spacer was going on. That pushed the chainrings/crank arm way out to the right and I don't think I was even able to get the fixing bolt started.

Just curious.

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Tim Anderson
"It's the nature of the internets that you get some dweeb who knows nothing about (insert topic here) pontificates about (topic), believing that his/her opinion is worth the same as opinions from those who actually knows what's going on." --Echappist

As far as I know they are built on the same platform. Mine has the long spindle - normally takes an 11mm DS, 5mm NDS and the NDS pre-load spacer to fill it up.

When i use it on a threaded frame with the BSA30 I have to have the 5mm spacer in there otherwise the crank floats back and forth. Tried it on the NDS but the chainrings were rubbing the frame. Thus, onto the DS it goes.

In an ideal world I think I would have 3-4mm on the DS and the remaining 1mm on the NDS to keep it tight. Right now my FD is more or less maxed out to get it to shift.

I'm no expert, only talking from my experience, but if you are at the edge of the adjustment range on the FD, I would be concerned. I don't think mine would even thread on with the 5mm spacer on the DS. Seems like it might be messing with the Q-factor if you are at the end of the swing. Have you looked at some thinner spacers to keep the chain rings from rubbing the frame? I got some from Wheels Mfg or your LBS might have them.

Mine is a 'old fashioned' Ti frame, so plenty of clearance for the chain rings so I don't need them, but might help your situation to only have 1-2mm of spacers instead of 5.

http://wheelsmfg.com/crank-spindle-spacers.html

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Tim Anderson
"It's the nature of the internets that you get some dweeb who knows nothing about (insert topic here) pontificates about (topic), believing that his/her opinion is worth the same as opinions from those who actually knows what's going on." --Echappist

It'll be my next stop after I talk to the folks at Quarq tomorrow.

If you are only putting a spacer on the DS then you are effectively spoiling the chainline, you have moved your chainrings too far from the frame. No wonder you have shifting issues. When using the Quarq BB30 with BSA30 adaptors in a BSA frame, you need to go pick up a set of nylon spacers with a wavy washer from your friendly local bike store. The spacers are really skinny, probs ~1mm. It's a standard BB30 spacer kit, they should have some. I'd pick up 2 sets just in case, they are only cheap.

I'm running Quarq Riken on S975 BB30 cranks in my P3. I have probably 3 nylon spacers on the NDS with a wave washer, and a couple of spacers on the DS. The reason I have more spacers on the NDS is that I am using the Quarq BB ring mount for my magnet, and this essentially spaces out the DS a little bit. Just shove enough on there so that your chainline is in the right place and when you tighten it up you get a small amount of compression in the wave washer and no play in the cranks. Works like a charm.

Good luck!
Rich.

I aksed Quarq and they sent me a nice little instruction guide for it. It really depends on your bike in regards to getting the spacers right. On my old Felt B16 I had 5 of the 0.5mm spacers on the drive side and just the wave washer on the NDS. On my plasma premium (using the 4130 BB- same thing as the BSA30 for pressfit) I am running one 0.5mm spacer and the wave washer on the DS and five 0.5mm on the NDS. Took a lot of playing around to get it right.

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Andy Mullen
Team Zoot

Hey Gang,,just sharing my experience about The latest Quarq or Sram BB30a crankset ,I just installed my Quarq dZero power meter BB30a on my Moots BSA 68mm shell frame,Ive used Rotor BSA30 cups bearing,I spent a bit of time on trial and error process,here’s my results
(The latest Quarq and Sram crankset has now a longer spindle 112mm in lenght)
1.On NDS crank arm I used three .5mm clear plastic spacer and one wavy washer
2. On the DS crank arm I used two .5mm clear plastic spacers.
All these spacers and washers should be included in the accessories on the box,the result is perfect and flawless.check attached photos.