Another consideration is to use a heli-coil. I believe Heli-coil inserts installed have a higher shear strength than the parent material alone in aluminum. You would still be able to use the original hardware too.

Looks like this could be a plausible solution (also seeing Keensert and Keysert options: www.acmeindustrial.com/insert_comparison.html). However, while it looks like they make these small enough for a M5 (0.8) bolt (what the Shiv seat-binder uses), it looks like the external thread class requires a M8 (1.25) size, which I'm worried may be too wide in diameter for the aluminum insert in the frame. Any thoughts?

Can you obtain a Wurth Timesert ? They area solid 1 piece insert - not a spring type helicoil. Less prone to winding out or moving and strong as hell. You can then keep the same Allen screw size (M6 ??)

LG

Is this not a warranty issue?

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Correct, as noted in my post, having the frame warrantied is not an option.

I have been lurking for a while now and whilst I can't add much to triathlon or training based threads, hopefully I might be able to help with 'fix it' type threads ...

I am assuming the clamp part looks similar to an Exocet ? If so, this is what I would do.

Get a plug tap, ensure you have totally bottomed out all available hole length.

Get some stainless studding and some good quality thread locker or epoxy (I think you guys over the pond like JB Weld ?).

Degrease everything properly and mix your epoxy according to instructions.

Bond a piece of stud into each hole, ensure its as far down as it can go (lock two nuts together on the end of the studding to get some purchase).

Once it's cured, measure how much stud you need and cut it off neatly / dress the end.

Put the clamp on and use nuts on the back of the clamp.

If you want to add some bling (and what I would do), get some Ti dome head nuts and small diameter Ti washers (Toronto cycles) to make it look really neat / like it's meant to be that way.

Let us know what you end up doing.

WD :-)

Think I'm going to give this a go. Seems that you don't need to bore as big of a hole with the time sert relative to competing products.

What abut calling Calfee or Predator. Those guys have tons of experience fixing carbon.

While this isn't a carbon issue, probably a great idea to give them a shout, as I'm sure they've encountered this type of situation before. Thanks for the recommendation.

Keensert recommends 1.5x the OD for the boss diameter (parent material) which is going to be something around 0.415" - not sure you have that much material.

Helicoils, to be honest aren't my favorite, however they are appropriate for use at their thread diameter and typical torques for the diameter - if you overtorque the fastener the helicoil will usually fail before the fastener shears. If for some reason something bad happens, pull the helicoil and install a new one. Not the case - as you're finding - with a direct tap. Keenserts and similar inserts can also be removed and replaced, but removing the stakes cleanly occasionally proves difficult.

There is also a keensert stud. Not sure if this is a reasonable option, but it seems like you might be able to get away with a slightly smaller edge distance with a quasi-permanent stud. You would then clamp up the seat post with a nut rather than a bolt (which is annoying in its own right)

have you thought about drilling out the rivet and putting in a new threaded rivet? Not sure what size it is but there are kits on websites like nutsandbolts.com

What year is the bike? I had this issue on two pre 2015 frames. Apparently they changed the inserts for 2015. I'm sure you are aware of this, but the problem is not the frame....it is the little silver threaded piece. It is glued in, the problem
Occurs when the silver threaded piece becomes dislodged from the frame. Getting the seat post screw to adhere to the threads won't solve the problem. When you tighten it.....the silver piece will still start to come out of the frame.....or are you talking about removing the silver threaded piece and threading the carbon??

I'm not the OP but that paint scheme looks to be a brand new 2016!

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2019 T-Rex Tri Series

In my case it's the actual aluminum threaded insert that is stripped. The insert is lodged in the frame / does not move when. It's a 2015 frame.

Correct, 2016 pain scheme. Frame made in 2015.

How did it get stripped? I'm asking because I have a shiv and want to avoid this problem if possible.

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2019 T-Rex Tri Series

Short answer is I don't know. Best guess is there was a manufacturing issue with the initial hole was drilled / tapped.

Several threads (about 5-6 threads in) were stripped when I got the frame. So, knew the problem from the get-go. Thought it could just be retapped to the same size (M5) and that a slightly longer bolt would catch threads further back in the frame & there wouldn't be an issue. While this initially worked fine during the winter riding months (i.e. on the trainer), apparently additional threads have broken since and the post will slip when on very bumpy roads.

A friend had this happen with his Shiv TT. My understanding was that Specialized has something like a service or distribution center in Utah where he sent his for repair. I would check with a Specialized dealer and see if they can get it fixed for you. It might not be a warranty, they appear to have an approved work around because you certainly aren't the first owner with stripped seat collar bolts.

I posted this in another thread. Perhaps useful here... http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ost=5924185#p5924185

This is/was a known issue with the frame. It was fixed sometime during the second year of the frame. The hard part here is that it is almost impossible to fix.

As far as the warranty goes, I don't know what to say that's helpful. This was a pretty well known issue on the frame you bought that you could have discovered in advance with a little research. And likewise you could have inquired if the frame would be covered under warranty when you bought it. That said, the fact that the prior owner's frame didn't fail was likely just luck, and given that it is/was such a common issue, I also think it's unfortunate that they won't honor the warranty in this case, because it's pretty clear what the problem is. That said, if the policy is lifetime warranty against defects for *original* owner, then it's pretty clear that they don't have to cover you. Which sucks. But also makes sense...

My suggestions here would be as follows:
- if you are lucky enough to be short enough that you can fit the bike in a bike box with the seatpost installed, then you should epoxy the post into the frame. With some high quality marine epoxy (I like WestSystem), the post should easily be held in place. If you're just on the border of being too tall, you can see if it will fit if you remove the crankset and/or the saddle. This will give you a frame that is basically perfectly usable - though make sure you are absolutely certain of your saddle height and also of your saddle preference, because the frame will basically be wedded to both of these things. Though, really, you don't need a LOT of epoxy, and while it will certainly be a "permanent" solution, the epoxy bond is also something that can be broken with some force, allowing you to change saddle height and/or saddle model with some effort.

- if you need to keep the post removable, I'd contact a machine shop and have them build you a collar for the post that you can put on above the current binder location. Basically, you have some make a standalone binder. Then you put that on the post and it keeps the post from slipping down into the frame. You could use a very light coating of epoxy to keep it from bouncing if you want, but even with only one side functional, the existing binder should more than be adequate for this. Then your custom binder does the hard work of keeping the post from slipping down into the frame. If you wanted to go a more robust/expensive route, you could build a custom metal binder like this and then have a good fabrication shop bond this new clamp onto the frame; but I wouldn't bother.

Bottom line, though, I would not try to repair the existing lug system. If you do not need to fly to your race (or if you can travel with the post installed), I'd definitely go with option 1 in the short term.

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*** PROBLEM SOLVED***

After reading recommendations on here and Googling, I decided to order a Time Sert M5 Thread Repair Kit (part #1508). I also opted to purchase the longer 12mm M5 inserts (part #15085). All-in $80. The tools showed up last night and I went to work. This was my first thread repair, so I took my time, but I had zero issues and after an hour I ended up with a finished product was not only super-clean (aesthetically w/ counterbore, use of same bolts, etc.), but resulted in a seatpost binder that's stronger than the original aluminum insert / threads. Pretty much as straight-forward as this video describes:




One thing to keep in mind is the need to over-drill the holes, given they're "blind" (i.e. you can drill through to the other side). Be careful not to over-drill, as the aluminum insert has a specific depth. Just go slow / be careful & feel free to ask if you have any questions.


Nice to know there's a relatively simple solution & no need to worry about buying a new frame! I hope this post will help someone in the same predicament. [if you have the same issue and happen to live in the NYC area, I'd be happy to lend a hand, as I now have a kit that I'll likely never use again]

Great job. I have a Shiv (and am getting ready to purchase another for my wife). I've not had this problem, but if I do, it is nice knowing this resource is here with several solutions available.

Thank you for this share! I'll be taking on this mission with the exact situation (2020 frame). Wish me luck!!

It's a straight-forward process, so you shouldn't need much of it, but good luck! I also have several carbon repair connections if things don't end up going well...

Just had the insert on a Trek SC pull out of the frame and just stumbled on this, very interesting indeed. Could be a slick solution to what I thought would be a complete nightmare