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Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free
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If you ride a Shimano road drivetrain 1x OR off-road, you should do this for much better chain retention. Shimano road rear derailleurs have two different cage tension settings and ship in the 'low' tension setting.

Okay, not so much a 'hack' as it is a relatively unknown and underutilized spring adjustment on every 10 and 11 speed Shimano road rear mechanical derailleur that I have ever seen (I haven't owned/touched the newest R8000 Ultegra or 9000 and up Dura Ace). We see so much whining about needing a 'clutched' rear derailleur for gravel/cyclocross/adventure road, but this free and easy adjustment gets you close enough that you won't be asking Santa for a clutched Shimano road rear derailleur.

The written directions with some pictures are here at the Park Tool website. I said something about no videos existing and kjmcawesome challenged me to make my own. He said he would upload a video trying to beat my time, but since mine is edited where I dropped the set screw on the floor, he gets a pass.





Other MUSTS for proper chain retention.

1) Size your chain correctly. This imaged linked from MTBR says it all.


If in doubt, size up slightly.


2) If going 1x, use a narrow wide ring. This isn't optional. I'm amazed how often I see ST posts where people don't use a narrow wide ring for 1x and then say that 1x doesn't work. I don't care if you have a chain guide, get a narrow wide ring*.



*I have seen plenty of people in cyclocross with a chain guide standing on the side of the course and cursing at their bike. I have never had a chain guide on my cyclocross bikes and the ONE chain drop in 3 seasons was when the mud was so thick it literally lifted the chain off the ring and I had to scrape out enough mud around the BB/frame to put it back on. My rear derailleur ripped off a minute later when the mud clogged it, so maybe God was trying to save me from cracking a 6 month old carbon fiber frame with an overbuilt derailleur hanger. I have never dropped a chain on my 130mm full suspension mt bike (without a chain guard, but with a clutched derailleur) using the above recommendations either.
Last edited by: dangle: Nov 2, 17 11:14
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Well done! *like button*

Alex Arman

Strava
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Nice video, A for effort.

My Blog - http://leegoocrap.blogspot.com
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [Morelock] [ In reply to ]
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OMG, two of my favorite posters for technical info and guys I have raced (behind). Fangirl moment.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Great find and great tutorial! *clap*
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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I honestly thought everyone knew that.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [jaretj] [ In reply to ]
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jaretj wrote:
I honestly thought everyone knew that.

I thought a lot did too, but I have seen enough people dumping chains in CX and gravel riding to know that's not the case. I had never found a video for it to link. A few of the times I had linked the Park Tools instructions, people were intimidated or messed it up because there's a dozen other (unnecessary) steps included in there. If 10 minutes of my time can help a couple people, it's totally worth it.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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So... I run 42x11-32.

According to the chain size instructions I will most definitely need to put on a longer chain if I put on an 11-36 or 11-42 cassette. Right?
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [NordicSkier] [ In reply to ]
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NordicSkier wrote:
So... I run 42x11-32.

According to the chain size instructions I will most definitely need to put on a longer chain if I put on an 11-36 or 11-42 cassette. Right?

It's likely you will if your current chain is sized the same way. It's a little crazy, but I have a handful of chains for my main cx bike. My 42 x 11-40 combo has its own chain. Then I rotate 3 chains (and a few wheels, thus cassettes) when it's tighter cyclocross gearing with a 38 or 40 up front and 11-28 or 11-32 out back.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [jaretj] [ In reply to ]
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jaretj wrote:
I honestly thought everyone knew that.
I wrench on my own bikes and didn't know this!

Thanks. I'll check it out.

On a semi related note, saw a roadie the other day, in big ring and middle of the cassette, and his chain was slapping around all over the place. How? How do people get there? Did he mount a brand new chain without sizing it at all, that morning, and hasn't yet shifted into the small ring?
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Well done.

However, for me, this is the $64,000 question:
If you make this RD spring adjustment, what effect (if any) will it have on drivetrain friction? Because, unlike an RD clutch system, this added RD spring tension will be on your drivetrain always, at all times in every single gear.

Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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DarkSpeedWorks wrote:
Well done.

However, for me, this is the $64,000 question:
If you make this RD spring adjustment, what effect (if any) will it have on drivetrain friction? Because, unlike an RD clutch system, this added RD spring tension will be on your drivetrain always, at all times in every single gear.

I know Rappstar has posted something scientific sounding about this with SRAM drivetrains, but I don't buy it for Shimano. With my Shimano XT mt bike in the stand, there's a noticeable difference turning the crank by hand (and shifting) with the the clutch on vs off. I even adjusted it to a slightly lower than recommended torque and still *feel* a difference.

I don't *feel* a difference with the road based spring adjustment. I don't know how many actual watts I could feel by hand. Both instances could be entirely in my head as well. I don't know how to quantify it at the moment. I know we're all about marginal gains, but they shouldn't be at the expense of system reliability.

Or we could forget about watts and ride single speed cx bikes in Lt. Dangle costumes.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Yup, for fun and fitness, watts be damned.
Actually, the more watts my bike sucks up the better, it means a better workout for me.

But, for racing, every single watt saved is worth exploring ...

Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [Dilbert] [ In reply to ]
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That's probably what he did.

I normally make the chain short enough to go small/small without binding and that's normally good enough for most ranges. The only issue I've had is when running a 28, sometimes the chain is 2 links too long and doesn't pull the cage forward enough to drop the top pulley low enough to clear the 28.

Fortunately I rarely run a 28, if I'm going big I go to a 32.

jaretj
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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DarkSpeedWorks wrote:
Yup, for fun and fitness, watts be damned.
Actually, the more watts my bike sucks up the better, it means a better workout for me.

But, for racing, every single watt saved is worth exploring ...

Agreed. This time of year when I hear 'racing' I'm thinking cyclocross though and trading .68 watts for chain retention is worth it. I'm still undecided how I feel about this for my straight up tri/tt rig that's 1x. If I ever drop a chain I know what my opinion will be.

Have you done any of the CHI Cross Cup races? I would think you're pretty close to some of the last few events.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [jaretj] [ In reply to ]
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Big, big plus 2 links is not the way to size a chain.
It is merely a way to find the minimum chain length required to not rip the derailleurs off.
I other words, it is a way of having those who haven't got a full understanding of how the geometry works to fit a chain and have it not break.
But 99 times out of a 100, there is a better length, especially if you are thinking of running differing cassettes.

Running a drivetrain sized this way puts a lot of sideways pressure on the derailleur pivot when in first gear due to the very short distance between lower pulley and front ring, this creates an extreme angle.
This is the reason for the bad reputation of SRAM rear MTB derailleurs wearing out their top pivots. It also creates a lot of extra chain and chainring wear.

B tension is interwoven with the cage tension.
In fact Campag don't have a B tension screw as such, just a cage tension screw.
Older Suntour stuff only had a B stop to stop pullies touching cassette with no spring and relied on cage tension only.

Shimano sprung both pivots and provided adjustment to both as by doing this a greater range can be had from a given length cage and it provides greater control over top pulley to cassette cog running distance which is crucial to gear shift quality.
By having both sprung to get better geometry it also made it easy to get wrong geometry as well.

Best chain length is found by starting at the small small. This gives maximum length and you can then cut the chain and put a used quick link in.
Now it is easy to run through all of the gears and check geometry.
If you cannot get into the largest combination you have a specification problem that you should have calculated before you bought the stuff.
Go through every gear combo and test whether pulling in another link or two aids top pulley position or worsens it.
Play with the B tension in each position as well.
You will eventually figure out the best compromise for all gears of chain length and B tension.
If that is shorter then now cut the chain to the best length and fit a new quicklink.
If you don't run quicklinks, leave the chain an extra inner link long and use a quicklink temporarily to find best length and cut it out at the end.
Best length will have the top pulley closely track the cassette in all gears without any slack in small small and the bottom pulley not pulled excessively forward in large large.
Usually the two pulley wheels will be vertical in the small ring large cassette gear combo when set up like this and this is what Shimano design around.

Changing Cage tension will also require an equivalent change in B tension to keep the top pulley from hitting in first gear.
Running higher cage tension requires higher B tension and usually leads to a bigger gap between the top pulley and the cassette across the cassette than if B tension is used to adjust that gap.

I can understand if there are not products on the market to run the gear combos you want, that a bodge is a way to make that happen, but there are now plenty of off the shelf products to do exactly what you want without the downsides of using gear outside of it's design brief.

A clutch is not extra tension and they perform significantly differently.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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DarkSpeedWorks wrote:
Well done.

However, for me, this is the $64,000 question:
If you make this RD spring adjustment, what effect (if any) will it have on drivetrain friction? Because, unlike an RD clutch system, this added RD spring tension will be on your drivetrain always, at all times in every single gear.

Friction Facts studied this a long time ago. Short version: there is a negative effect. Not sure if Jason still sells his research so I'll leave it to others to dig up the results.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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For a cross bike, it may not be a significant friction loss, I was more thinking about the friction loss for a tri race bike.

I have not done the Chicago cross races, would they even allow a bike like this ? (its the closest bike I have to a cross bike ... )

Greg @ dsw

Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [lyrrad] [ In reply to ]
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Nice post, that makes a lot of sense and is very helpful. Thanks!
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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DarkSpeedWorks wrote:
I have not done the Chicago cross races, would they even allow a bike like this ? (its the closest bike I have to a cross bike ... )

Absolutely. There's fat bikes in some of the races. You will even see the elite guys bringing mt bikes too because occasionally they are the best tool for the job.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [awenborn] [ In reply to ]
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awenborn wrote:
Nice post, that makes a lot of sense and is very helpful. Thanks!

It's well written and makes sense for a 2x system. That's basically how my road bike is set up and how my tri bike was when it was 2x.

It's not a great approach to a 1x to be used off-road. The post you're referencing is factually correct (possibly a little exaggerated) as far as I know of, but not super relevant to 1x off-road which is what I'm trying to 'help' people with. I'm basically saying here's a way to make your system meant for 2x road riding to work better off-road, especially in a 1x application. It will probably make it work better in a 1x application on the road as well. All for free and easy to do. It's stuff I have been doing for years between 4 different bikes and a lot of chainrings, cassettes, and chains. Heck yeah I would like a Shimano rear derailleur that (out of the box) fit an 11-40 cassette, had great chain retention and didn't clog with mud and worked with road shifters. That doesn't exist, so here's something to at least help with chain retention. I can't imagine Shimano has gone to the trouble of including it as an option for 10+ years if it was such a bad idea.

You don't want your chain too long, which is exactly what happens when you're sizing it to the smallest cog in back with only one ring up front (unless I'm misunderstanding the lyrrad post). In CX you're rattling your bike around constantly whether it's smacking into stuff, riding rough terrain or setting (dropping) it back onto the ground after a dismount. With all else equal, extra chain length = more drops.

For gravel riding, what seems to happen is somebody is going downhill and eventually ends up in their smallest cog out back. The chain is hitting the chainstay and that's also the most likely time you will see a chain dropped. If the chain is sized up like it would be for a 2x system, then two tension pulley (the lower one) is near parallel with the guide pulley (the one closest to the cassette) and provides barely any chain retention. If the chain was a few links shorter, there would be a bit more tension and better retention. This can also happen in a 1x road application, but I'm still not sure where I stand on the chain length for 1x road/tri/tt. I think it's somewhere between the lyrrad description and big + big + 2.

I'm in the thick of cyclocross season, so maybe that's just where my head is vs. the friction free, zero watts lost TT drivetrain setups we all lust after.
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Re: Shimano Road Rear Derailleur Clutch Hack; 10 minutes and free [dangle] [ In reply to ]
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Since you called me out, I better bust out the stopwatch and get to work.

I have an old 7800 rear derailleur on my commuter that I run 1x10, so I guess I have a project to do.

Thanks for the homework!

/kj

http://kjmcawesome.tumblr.com/
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