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Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider?
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Considering updating my rear derailleur and cable due to some shifting lag. Probably something along the lines of Shimano 105. Any variables I should consider? Cage length, for example. Thanks!

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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [domingjm] [ In reply to ]
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There's a fair amount of RD tech out there with clutches and oversize pulley wheels and medium/long cages but unless youre running 1x, a cog over 28t, or have $500 burning a hole in your wallet to get ceramic speed OSPW, no reason to get anything besides standard it'll work just fine. Just make sure it matches your system in terms of number speeds, brand (sram will not work with shimano shifters and vice versa) and largest cog size. Shifters and cable setup (the latter of which you said you're replacing) have large bearing in shifting performance too so make sure those are in good shape and set up correctly.
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [PBT_2009] [ In reply to ]
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Much appreciated!


PBT_2009 wrote:

There's a fair amount of RD tech out there with clutches and oversize pulley wheels and medium/long cages but unless youre running 1x, a cog over 28t, or have $500 burning a hole in your wallet to get ceramic speed OSPW, no reason to get anything besides standard it'll work just fine. Just make sure it matches your system in terms of number speeds, brand (sram will not work with shimano shifters and vice versa) and largest cog size. Shifters and cable setup (the latter of which you said you're replacing) have large bearing in shifting performance too so make sure those are in good shape and set up correctly.

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https://connect.garmin.com/modern/profile/domingjm
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [domingjm] [ In reply to ]
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I replaced a bent Ultegra with a 105 and upgraded to Dura-Ace jockey wheels, as they have better bearings. Everything works great!

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Madison photographer Timothy Hughes | Instagram
Last edited by: Timtek: Jun 1, 18 14:06
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [domingjm] [ In reply to ]
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There is thread here on Slowtwitch about upgrading gear. Generally, Ultegra is the best bang for the buck. Consider that over 105.


.

Once, I was fast. But I got over it.
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [hblake] [ In reply to ]
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Interesting. The first 5 comparison review articles that Google found said the opposite, mostly musing over why someone would pay the difference for such marginal upgrades. I'm still reading up on it though.

hblake wrote:

There is thread here on Slowtwitch about upgrading gear. Generally, Ultegra is the best bang for the buck. Consider that over 105.


.

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https://connect.garmin.com/modern/profile/domingjm
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [domingjm] [ In reply to ]
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You might buy a long cage just to have the flexibility if you want to run a 30 at some point.

***
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [PBT_2009] [ In reply to ]
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PBT_2009 wrote:

There's a fair amount of RD tech out there with clutches and oversize pulley wheels and medium/long cages but unless youre running 1x, a cog over 28t, or have $500 burning a hole in your wallet to get ceramic speed OSPW, no reason to get anything besides standard it'll work just fine. Just make sure it matches your system in terms of number speeds, brand (sram will not work with shimano shifters and vice versa) and largest cog size. Shifters and cable setup (the latter of which you said you're replacing) have large bearing in shifting performance too so make sure those are in good shape and set up correctly.

The highlighted section in bold is patently incorrect and probably put out by each brand to try to sell more of their product. Two of my four bikes have SRAM XG 1190 cassettes, Shimano Dura Ace 9100 rear derailleurs, FSA K Force Light and SRAM Red 22 cranks, DA 9000 shifters on one and Microshift bar end shifters on the other. The gear shifting on both is perfect. (I do my own set up work.)
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [monsrider] [ In reply to ]
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Maybe i wasnt clear...My point was that a sram RD would not work with shimano shifters and vice versa. You have to have derailleurs and shifters match brand (as you do, with shimano 9000 shifters and shimano 9100 RD). Other parts can absolutely mix n match brands in various ways.
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [domingjm] [ In reply to ]
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Here is the thread:



https://forum.slowtwitch.com/...F_P6636789/#p6636789

Once, I was fast. But I got over it.
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [monsrider] [ In reply to ]
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monsrider wrote:
PBT_2009 wrote:

There's a fair amount of RD tech out there with clutches and oversize pulley wheels and medium/long cages but unless youre running 1x, a cog over 28t, or have $500 burning a hole in your wallet to get ceramic speed OSPW, no reason to get anything besides standard it'll work just fine. Just make sure it matches your system in terms of number speeds, brand (sram will not work with shimano shifters and vice versa) and largest cog size. Shifters and cable setup (the latter of which you said you're replacing) have large bearing in shifting performance too so make sure those are in good shape and set up correctly.


The highlighted section in bold is patently incorrect and probably put out by each brand to try to sell more of their product. Two of my four bikes have SRAM XG 1190 cassettes, Shimano Dura Ace 9100 rear derailleurs, FSA K Force Light and SRAM Red 22 cranks, DA 9000 shifters on one and Microshift bar end shifters on the other. The gear shifting on both is perfect. (I do my own set up work.)
There's actually a lot correct about it, shimano has spaced MTB chain rings differently at times so that sram only shifters wouldn't work and sram and shimano shifters and derailleurs have used different pull ratios to prevent cross use of equipment. Sram and Shimano have kept their cassette spacing and chain widths the same allowing for cross compatibility though shimano did screw with their cassette freehub body profile on some of their earlier 10sp which created cross compatibility issues with sram and their own stuff and the design had to be abandoned. In general you're safe borrowing cassettes, chains, and cranks but not so much derailleurs and shifters. Microshift is specifically designed to work with shimano just like sachs used to.
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [Fuzzybunnies] [ In reply to ]
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Fuzzybunnies wrote:
monsrider wrote:
PBT_2009 wrote:

There's a fair amount of RD tech out there with clutches and oversize pulley wheels and medium/long cages but unless youre running 1x, a cog over 28t, or have $500 burning a hole in your wallet to get ceramic speed OSPW, no reason to get anything besides standard it'll work just fine. Just make sure it matches your system in terms of number speeds, brand (sram will not work with shimano shifters and vice versa) and largest cog size. Shifters and cable setup (the latter of which you said you're replacing) have large bearing in shifting performance too so make sure those are in good shape and set up correctly.


The highlighted section in bold is patently incorrect and probably put out by each brand to try to sell more of their product. Two of my four bikes have SRAM XG 1190 cassettes, Shimano Dura Ace 9100 rear derailleurs, FSA K Force Light and SRAM Red 22 cranks, DA 9000 shifters on one and Microshift bar end shifters on the other. The gear shifting on both is perfect. (I do my own set up work.)

There's actually a lot correct about it, shimano has spaced MTB chain rings differently at times so that sram only shifters wouldn't work and sram and shimano shifters and derailleurs have used different pull ratios to prevent cross use of equipment. Sram and Shimano have kept their cassette spacing and chain widths the same allowing for cross compatibility though shimano did screw with their cassette freehub body profile on some of their earlier 10sp which created cross compatibility issues with sram and their own stuff and the design had to be abandoned. In general you're safe borrowing cassettes, chains, and cranks but not so much derailleurs and shifters. Microshift is specifically designed to work with shimano just like sachs used to.

Without being pedantic (or just plain thick) , I find it difficult to understand how the different pull ratios of each brand can prevent cross compatibility. If the cassette spacing and chain widths of the two brands are the same - and therefore the distance for the RD to travel horizontally across the from the small to the large cog on the cassette is the same - then how can the RH shift lever of each brand move the RD differently from the other when they are moving the same total distance in equal gradations. After all, the RD is spring loaded in the horizontal plane and reacts only to the pull of the cable, so it shouldn't matter (in theory anyway) as long as the pull is designed to move it from one cog to the next. Please enlighten me.
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [monsrider] [ In reply to ]
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The amount of cable travel per click is different between sram and Shimano. Iirc sram pulls the cable more per click than shimano. The rd is then designed to move by one cog width per that cable pull.

So if you use an sram shifter with a shimano rd, the shimano rd will move a bit too far and will skip or click. If you go the other way shimano shifter / sram rd the The rd won't move enough.

There are adapters, made by jtek, that you can buy to alter the cable pull for mixing shimano / sram. But they cost as much as a used rd on ebay.

I went through all this last year when I converted my road to a tri bike and bought sram bar end shifters for my existing shimano ultegra groupset.
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [monsrider] [ In reply to ]
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monsrider wrote:
Fuzzybunnies wrote:
monsrider wrote:
PBT_2009 wrote:

There's a fair amount of RD tech out there with clutches and oversize pulley wheels and medium/long cages but unless youre running 1x, a cog over 28t, or have $500 burning a hole in your wallet to get ceramic speed OSPW, no reason to get anything besides standard it'll work just fine. Just make sure it matches your system in terms of number speeds, brand (sram will not work with shimano shifters and vice versa) and largest cog size. Shifters and cable setup (the latter of which you said you're replacing) have large bearing in shifting performance too so make sure those are in good shape and set up correctly.


The highlighted section in bold is patently incorrect and probably put out by each brand to try to sell more of their product. Two of my four bikes have SRAM XG 1190 cassettes, Shimano Dura Ace 9100 rear derailleurs, FSA K Force Light and SRAM Red 22 cranks, DA 9000 shifters on one and Microshift bar end shifters on the other. The gear shifting on both is perfect. (I do my own set up work.)

There's actually a lot correct about it, shimano has spaced MTB chain rings differently at times so that sram only shifters wouldn't work and sram and shimano shifters and derailleurs have used different pull ratios to prevent cross use of equipment. Sram and Shimano have kept their cassette spacing and chain widths the same allowing for cross compatibility though shimano did screw with their cassette freehub body profile on some of their earlier 10sp which created cross compatibility issues with sram and their own stuff and the design had to be abandoned. In general you're safe borrowing cassettes, chains, and cranks but not so much derailleurs and shifters. Microshift is specifically designed to work with shimano just like sachs used to.

Without being pedantic (or just plain thick) , I find it difficult to understand how the different pull ratios of each brand can prevent cross compatibility. If the cassette spacing and chain widths of the two brands are the same - and therefore the distance for the RD to travel horizontally across the from the small to the large cog on the cassette is the same - then how can the RH shift lever of each brand move the RD differently from the other when they are moving the same total distance in equal gradations. After all, the RD is spring loaded in the horizontal plane and reacts only to the pull of the cable, so it shouldn't matter (in theory anyway) as long as the pull is designed to move it from one cog to the next. Please enlighten me.

While the end-result is movement in the horizontal plane, RD's don't pull the cable horizontally. The exact layout of the parallelogram dictates the cable pull and resultant horizontal distance moved. Make sense?
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Re: Rear derailleur for triathlon: anything specific I should consider? [tylerwal] [ In reply to ]
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[/quote]While the end-result is movement in the horizontal plane, RD's don't pull the cable horizontally. The exact layout of the parallelogram dictates the cable pull and resultant horizontal distance moved. Make sense?[/quote]

The concept of the parallelogram-style movement creating the difference does make sense and explains what I was seeking. Thanks
Last edited by: monsrider: Jun 3, 18 13:07
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