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Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [Lopansman]
[ In reply to ]
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [Sweeney]
[ In reply to ]
I posted this on the main forum, but I think this might be a better place for my question.
I just purchased a Shiv Pro and I'm struggling with where to place my nutrition on the bike (bars, gels, etc). The only thing I can come up with is taping them to the bike. Has anyone come up with another solution? I don't see a location to place a bag or anything like that.
Thanks
I just purchased a Shiv Pro and I'm struggling with where to place my nutrition on the bike (bars, gels, etc). The only thing I can come up with is taping them to the bike. Has anyone come up with another solution? I don't see a location to place a bag or anything like that.
Thanks
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [Sweeney]
[ In reply to ]
Sweeney wrote:
I really want a Shiv Comp. Can you verify that the new Shiv is compatible with the new wider wheels such as the Zipp Firecrest or the Flo's or Heds?Great question. Our testing has determined the following...
Will FLO wheels fit on my bike?
FLO wheels feature wide toroidal fairings, which means they do not fit on some triathlon bikes on the market. This is because there is an interference on either the front fork, seat stays, or chain stays.
Bikes with Potential Fit Issues
There are two categories below. The first category are bikes that will have a tight fit and the second category are bikes that our wheels will simply not fit on. Any bike marked "tight fit" "may" experience occasional light rubbing when used by strong sprinters or heavier riders. No wheel or frame damage should occur.
Tight Fit
- Argon 18 e-114
- Blue Triad SL (21mm or 22mm rear tire required)
- Cervelo P4 (very tight)
- Giant Trinity Alliance
- Scott Plasma 2
- Scott Plasma 3
Won't Fit
- Ridley Noah (Front wheel will not fit. Rear wheel very tight)
- Ridley Dean (Ridley informed us that our wheels will more than likely not fit.)
Hopefully that helps. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
Take care,
Chris Thornham
Co-Founder And Previous Owner Of FLO Cycling
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [CAnderson_SBC]
[ In reply to ]
Is there any chance you could tell me the part number for the magnetic screw please at the hydration cover, mine bounced out at the start of the race, I managed to reclaim the cover but not the screw :( Thank you.
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [NewbieTri100]
[ In reply to ]
A few things on the Shiv hydration system:
1. I got the camelbak bite valve to work - see picture - I could not get it to work with the optional use "L" shaped magnet connector and lost a camelbak bite valve in the process of trying.
2. Based on Slowtwitch advice, I got the rare earth magnet and it works fine. However, instead of replacing the old magnet, I simply added the rare earth magnet to the stack and after a fair bit of sometimes bumpy riding, I can report that it stays put and keeps things in place - see picture. Yes, it is just floating there, not connected to anything else, but it is a very strong magnet and holds very well.
- I read about people having trouble with inserting their hydration bag in the downtube, but I wasn't having the same problem - until after my first race - perhaps after cleaning the hydration bag it lost some of it's slippery-ness?
Anyway, after trying many different techniques, I put a light dusting of baby powder on the hydration bag and it slid right in without problem.
I'm also going to replace the magnets with the "rare earth" variety. I just need to figure out how to get them out and back in. Also, it's difficult to find a good size selection of the magnets locally. You can buy them online but matching up the sizes is more difficult when you buy online.
Thanks again for the recommendation.
http://www.rei.com/...yper-flow-bite-valve
I might end up replacing the whole tube with an Osprey replacement. It's a higher flow (than Specialized's bite valve assembly, still a little lower flow than the Platypus Hyper Flow) and comes with a magnet on the end near the bite valve so you can use Specialized's aero bar magnet. Basically a copy of the Specialized setup except with a larger tube, higher flow bite valve, and rotating bite valve. It also has its own second magnet that I believe is stronger than the Specialized setup, so it would be trivial to rig the Osprey magnet to your aerobar for better holding strength.
http://www.rei.com/...-tube-and-bite-valve
1. I got the camelbak bite valve to work - see picture - I could not get it to work with the optional use "L" shaped magnet connector and lost a camelbak bite valve in the process of trying.
2. Based on Slowtwitch advice, I got the rare earth magnet and it works fine. However, instead of replacing the old magnet, I simply added the rare earth magnet to the stack and after a fair bit of sometimes bumpy riding, I can report that it stays put and keeps things in place - see picture. Yes, it is just floating there, not connected to anything else, but it is a very strong magnet and holds very well.
- I read about people having trouble with inserting their hydration bag in the downtube, but I wasn't having the same problem - until after my first race - perhaps after cleaning the hydration bag it lost some of it's slippery-ness?
Anyway, after trying many different techniques, I put a light dusting of baby powder on the hydration bag and it slid right in without problem.
NewbieTri100 wrote:
Thanks for the info. I purchased the camelbak large bite valve but I was unable to make it work. I'll try the Platypus. I'm also going to replace the magnets with the "rare earth" variety. I just need to figure out how to get them out and back in. Also, it's difficult to find a good size selection of the magnets locally. You can buy them online but matching up the sizes is more difficult when you buy online.
Thanks again for the recommendation.
concededpenguin wrote:
BTW, I was having major issues getting water out through Specialized's bite valve that comes with their bladder. It's pretty small and the water would just barely come out, especially when you're out of breath on a hard uphill. Replaced the rubber bite valve itself at the end with a Platypus hyper flow and now it is MUCH easier to drink. Just pulled off the rubber bite valve and pushed the Platypus one on so the magnet setup remains untouched and thus still functions 100% as designed. The opening is much larger. http://www.rei.com/...yper-flow-bite-valve
I might end up replacing the whole tube with an Osprey replacement. It's a higher flow (than Specialized's bite valve assembly, still a little lower flow than the Platypus Hyper Flow) and comes with a magnet on the end near the bite valve so you can use Specialized's aero bar magnet. Basically a copy of the Specialized setup except with a larger tube, higher flow bite valve, and rotating bite valve. It also has its own second magnet that I believe is stronger than the Specialized setup, so it would be trivial to rig the Osprey magnet to your aerobar for better holding strength.
http://www.rei.com/...-tube-and-bite-valve
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [jesse@thr]
[ In reply to ]
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [CakeWalk]
[ In reply to ]
Hi Chris,
I'm a proud owner of a Specialized Shiv Comp Rival (XL). I'd like to start upgrading some of the components on my bike so that it becomes lighter and/or more aerodynamic.
Would it be possible for you to provide a component-by-component breakdown of the weight and aero differences (e.g., drag) between the components of the Shiv Comp Rival and the components on other builds of the bike, such as the S-Works Shiv Di2?
Also, would it be possible to for you to provide the precise weight of the S-Works FACT IS 11r carbon frame and the precise weight of the FACT IS 10r carbon frame for comparison purposes?
I'm a proud owner of a Specialized Shiv Comp Rival (XL). I'd like to start upgrading some of the components on my bike so that it becomes lighter and/or more aerodynamic.
Would it be possible for you to provide a component-by-component breakdown of the weight and aero differences (e.g., drag) between the components of the Shiv Comp Rival and the components on other builds of the bike, such as the S-Works Shiv Di2?
Also, would it be possible to for you to provide the precise weight of the S-Works FACT IS 11r carbon frame and the precise weight of the FACT IS 10r carbon frame for comparison purposes?
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [Rappstar]
[ In reply to ]
i don't really have time (or feel like it) reading each post in this thread....... so i'm going to ask this directly
Bottom Bracket question
2011 nosecone
Non-Driveside bearing...... Should it be flush with the frame or inboard a smidgen like 1/8"ish? (my gut says flush, but i don't want to figure out WHY it's not)
here's the thing. few weeks back my crank was creaking something fierce... like kill myself annoying. got home and the crank bolt was loose. no biggy tightened it up, (could use a torque wrench as i don't have the right combination of tool to get through that hole with a socket allen key)
Creak went away. i was happy.
then i went to a Rev3 race i knoxville and was checking the bike out before dropping it off in Transition the night before, the crank was sliding side to side? ok, the bolt must have come loose. take the plug bolt out and go to tighten up what MUST be a very loose crank bolt only to find it just as tight as the day i tightened it? ok, now what? oh yeah that spacer/washer/shim that is on the crank! i flipped it around put it on the other side and the issue was gone...... well for that race it was. mind you the tightness i'm getting the crank bolt is with a standard ""L" bend allen wrench using only the SHORT side for my leverage.
so i'm cleaning the bike up after having another issue thanks to some Di2 wiring problems, and i notice the crank is slopping side to side again? WTF? i hadn't taken it apart since i last rode it?
i only had one spacer/washer/shim so i figured that HAD to be the problem (this is Saturday morning before my race Saturday night) so i do some quick homebrew machining and whip myself up a set of spacer/washer/shims that are the same functional size/thickness of the stock one. i install one on each side and tighten things down again...... still slop? WTF??? there's no way Spec is shipping these bikes out with more than those two spacer things!?! (and i've done enough riding with no issues previously to not question that i only had one spacer before)
so i give a little closer inspection and i see non-driveside bearing is inboard a smidgen (as noted above) i see there is a "C" clip style retainer of sorts that this bearing appears to stop up against. that seems (without much tinkering at the moment, i had a race in a few hours) to be still in place. i created an even more creative washer and reattached everything one last time, it appears to be 'fixed' for the time being.
thoughts?
love this bike with this exception at the moment....... and the crappy arm pads that i have yet to figure out what to do with...
Thanks
Tim
Tim
Bottom Bracket question
2011 nosecone
Non-Driveside bearing...... Should it be flush with the frame or inboard a smidgen like 1/8"ish? (my gut says flush, but i don't want to figure out WHY it's not)
here's the thing. few weeks back my crank was creaking something fierce... like kill myself annoying. got home and the crank bolt was loose. no biggy tightened it up, (could use a torque wrench as i don't have the right combination of tool to get through that hole with a socket allen key)
Creak went away. i was happy.
then i went to a Rev3 race i knoxville and was checking the bike out before dropping it off in Transition the night before, the crank was sliding side to side? ok, the bolt must have come loose. take the plug bolt out and go to tighten up what MUST be a very loose crank bolt only to find it just as tight as the day i tightened it? ok, now what? oh yeah that spacer/washer/shim that is on the crank! i flipped it around put it on the other side and the issue was gone...... well for that race it was. mind you the tightness i'm getting the crank bolt is with a standard ""L" bend allen wrench using only the SHORT side for my leverage.
so i'm cleaning the bike up after having another issue thanks to some Di2 wiring problems, and i notice the crank is slopping side to side again? WTF? i hadn't taken it apart since i last rode it?
i only had one spacer/washer/shim so i figured that HAD to be the problem (this is Saturday morning before my race Saturday night) so i do some quick homebrew machining and whip myself up a set of spacer/washer/shims that are the same functional size/thickness of the stock one. i install one on each side and tighten things down again...... still slop? WTF??? there's no way Spec is shipping these bikes out with more than those two spacer things!?! (and i've done enough riding with no issues previously to not question that i only had one spacer before)
so i give a little closer inspection and i see non-driveside bearing is inboard a smidgen (as noted above) i see there is a "C" clip style retainer of sorts that this bearing appears to stop up against. that seems (without much tinkering at the moment, i had a race in a few hours) to be still in place. i created an even more creative washer and reattached everything one last time, it appears to be 'fixed' for the time being.
thoughts?
love this bike with this exception at the moment....... and the crappy arm pads that i have yet to figure out what to do with...
Thanks
Tim
Tim
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [NewbieTri100]
[ In reply to ]
Does the XS come with 650 wheels
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [cat]
[ In reply to ]
cat wrote:
Does the XS come with 650 wheelsNo, 700.
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [K_Man]
[ In reply to ]
K_Man wrote:
Hi Chris, I'm a proud owner of a Specialized Shiv Comp Rival (XL). I'd like to start upgrading some of the components on my bike so that it becomes lighter and/or more aerodynamic.
Would it be possible for you to provide a component-by-component breakdown of the weight and aero differences (e.g., drag) between the components of the Shiv Comp Rival and the components on other builds of the bike, such as the S-Works Shiv Di2?
Also, would it be possible to for you to provide the precise weight of the S-Works FACT IS 11r carbon frame and the precise weight of the FACT IS 10r carbon frame for comparison purposes?
Not much you can do about aero. Make sure your position is as good as possible, maybe swap out the bars if you are really hunting for fractions of seconds and get some aero race wheels. Otherwise, the comp is just as aero as the s-works. In terms of weight, the weights of the various components are easy to find online. Start here for a groupset weight comparison http://totalcycling.com/component-weights.html. I think the weight difference between the 10r and 11r frames was mentioned somewhere else in this thread.
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [K_Man]
[ In reply to ]
I'm a little late to the party but I just came from the bike shop after looking at the Shiv Comp Rival. I'll be getting one this summer. I don't need a new bike until next year, I only plan one or two races this year and my old Kestrel would be fine, but the shop owner told me that if I want a deal to see him in July of August. He has it at $2998.
With this bike, the only thing I need to change is the 36 tooth small chainring to a 38. I might even be good on the seat. About the front brake; has anyone tried to convert it to center pull? I looks like it wouldn't be too hard.
---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law
With this bike, the only thing I need to change is the 36 tooth small chainring to a 38. I might even be good on the seat. About the front brake; has anyone tried to convert it to center pull? I looks like it wouldn't be too hard.
---------------------------
''Sweeney - you can both crush your AG *and* cruise in dead last!! 😂 '' Murphy's Law
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [rmg]
[ In reply to ]
I have a 2012 Shiv Pro, XL frame and the bladder holds every bit of 30-32oz of water.
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If you see me collapse, do NOT touch my Garmin... it has AutoPause now :)
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If you see me collapse, do NOT touch my Garmin... it has AutoPause now :)
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [TriClyde74]
[ In reply to ]
That's a pretty big difference. I would say that the small takes about one 20oz water bottle when installed.
Which is actually fine for me. I carried one additional small bottle between the aero bars in last Oly distance race and will carry one additional behind the seat for 70.3. 32oz would have actually been sufficient for me for an oly.
RG
Which is actually fine for me. I carried one additional small bottle between the aero bars in last Oly distance race and will carry one additional behind the seat for 70.3. 32oz would have actually been sufficient for me for an oly.
RG
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [CAnderson_SBC]
[ In reply to ]
I'm going to install a Quarq power meter and wanted to see if Specialized had an optimal configuration for this bike. I have the S-Works di2 bike. Current thinking is S975 with the S-works TT chain rings that came stock. Thanks
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [Stusername]
[ In reply to ]
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [rivaryans]
[ In reply to ]
Nice Work
----------------------------------------------------------
"There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life".
Zappa
----------------------------------------------------------
"There is more stupidity than hydrogen in the universe, and it has a longer shelf life".
Zappa
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [rivaryans]
[ In reply to ]
Dude,
Great job. That bike is sweet. I have the solid s works TT chain rings not sure if they will work with the Specialized Quarq spider. Also a 2 month wait for the Specialized Quarq. I'm going to order those CAMELBAK parts that looks like a great setup.
Great job. That bike is sweet. I have the solid s works TT chain rings not sure if they will work with the Specialized Quarq spider. Also a 2 month wait for the Specialized Quarq. I'm going to order those CAMELBAK parts that looks like a great setup.
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [CAnderson_SBC]
[ In reply to ]
With Enve's:
With Zipps
With Zipps
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [campled]
[ In reply to ]
campled wrote:
With Enve's: With Zipps
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FTMRFIsWhI
are those shivs yours? both of them?
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [mancala]
[ In reply to ]
Check this example out .. works for me.
I like it actually better then having it placed in the front ..
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [Sweeney] [In reply to] Quote | Reply
I posted this on the main forum, but I think this might be a better place for my question.
I just purchased a Shiv Pro and I'm struggling with where to place my nutrition on the bike (bars, gels, etc). The only thing I can come up with is taping them to the bike. Has anyone come up with another solution? I don't see a location to place a bag or anything like that.
Thanks
I like it actually better then having it placed in the front ..
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [Sweeney] [In reply to] Quote | Reply
I posted this on the main forum, but I think this might be a better place for my question.
I just purchased a Shiv Pro and I'm struggling with where to place my nutrition on the bike (bars, gels, etc). The only thing I can come up with is taping them to the bike. Has anyone come up with another solution? I don't see a location to place a bag or anything like that.
Thanks
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [odin99]
[ In reply to ]
Only the XS Shiv in the lower pic.
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [rivaryans]
[ In reply to ]
Last edited by:
concededpenguin: Sep 20, 13 10:49
Re: Official Specialized Shiv Thread [concededpenguin]
[ In reply to ]
Yep! I purchased it through Capital Bicycle (www.capitalbicycle.com) a few months ago.
For those on an XL, what type of pad stack/reach do you have? I checked my current rig this morning and pad stack: 693 and pad reach: 510 which put me squarely in the L OR XL category. I'm leaning towards XL but am open to guidance!