here is my Felt! B16 frame with DA drivetrain, profile-design cockpit, and Quarq Elsa :)[/img]

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Andy Mullen
Team Zoot 2021

Very nice Andy- I just picked up the same B16. I'm looking forward to getting it onto the road!

have fun with it! its a fast bike :)

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Andy Mullen
Team Zoot 2021

Did you zip tie your BTA? What kind of cage is it?

I have a spec B16 and I'm struggling to get my cage far enough back towards the stem to mount my Garmin between the bars.

Its an Arundel cage. The 3T aero bars exit out the back of the base bar. I left a little space on the back side of the bars so that I could use the Profile Design mounts to bolt the cage too.

Felt B12 with Enve 6.7 wheelset

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When your legs get tired, run with your heart
http://tritofinishchris.blogspot.com/

Flat stems (0mm rise) can be ordered now from your Felt Dealer.

-Dave

Dave,

Is there a certain language the dealer should use when ordering from Felt?

I had two dealers try to order/pre-order the stem yesterday and they told me to call back in a few months.

Thanks.

Hey Dave, any information on what lengths are available in the 0 rise? Thanks!

I would also like to know because I called to order a DA along with this stem and was told the same thing regarding the stem...


Cheers.

90mm and 110mm

SD

No need to use the rubber strips. They just keep the inside of the frame clean.

AR3 EPS is the best way to get the most aero and lightest of the UHC Advanced frames. $5000 is a "steal"

SD

Where are you located? The stems can be ordered from dealers in the USA with these part numbers referenced although I'd be surprised to hear anyone at the sales office is unaware of the update as we've been working on these for the better part of 18 months.



980100 - Stem Bayonet 3 Fixed Position 90mm x 0
980102 - Stem Bayonet 3 Fixed Position 110mm x 0


-SD

Are you in the US?
Ask the Felt Dealer to reference these numbers:


980100 - Stem Bayonet 3 Fixed Position 90mm x 0
980102 - Stem Bayonet 3 Fixed Position 110mm x 0

-SD

Ultegra Di2 was well worth the upgrade. Did 135k on new AR2 yesterday, phenomenal bike

that'e a DOPE bike and, erm, an aggressive position. allez allez!

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What are you people, on dope?

—Mr. Hand

My 2013 Felt B2, with some older components. I had a 2008 Felt B12 that got a crack in the seat post clamp and Felt hooked me up with this AWESOME warranty replacement.

2013 B2 Components - Frame, fork, headset, seat post, front and rear brakes
2008 B12 Components - Seat, wheels, Ultegra front and rear derailers
Other - Ultegra crackset, 3T Mistral aero bars

thats pure sex.

here's my update to my 2012~ Felt AR2.
TT cockpit 'cockpit' upgrade this year - yes I know mismatched wheels in this photo :/

Here's my .02 on the AR2. In terms of ride quality, I wouldn't compare it to other aero frames--I'd put it against any top of the line race bike. It rides and handles extremely well with great acceleration from stiff bottom bracket, and precise handling. It requires very little getting used to: just get on and go. For a race rig that's a nod to user friendliness. Initially the steering felt light, but after some descending it was an easy adjustment. Not twitchy or on edge like some bikes, which again adds to versatility as an all-arounder.

My winter bike is a BMC SLR01, which I've always considered to be very comfortable for a race frame but kind of spongy performance. The AR2 doesn't match in terms of pure comfort (nor does it need to), but is in a different league for handling and feedback. IMO it's on par with the S-Works SL4. I was going to keep the BMC to train and do long/tough races on but there's no need--watch for it in classifieds soon...

The other thing I like about this bike is the complete build package. It's well integrated and tight all around, with Ultegra Di2 and 3T cockpit. It's super clean with cables routed just on top tube just behind stem and battery hidden in seat tube. I've ridden the past generation Di2 a few times and the new one is steps beyond. Safe to say I won't go back to mechanical again.

One thing I didn't like on spec is the hidden Ultegra rear brake. It's not great, and that's a spot for possible improvement/upgrade. Also, this is more specific to my preferences but the wheels are interesting. Not exactly everyday hoops but also not what I'd want to race on. I sold them off and am replacing with Hed Ardennes + SL tubeless setup for when comfort is a premium, such as training and races like Battenkill. 303s otherwise.

Aside from those two nitpicky comments, two snaps for this bike. Safe to say it's my fav.

Side note: I switched out the Ultegra crank for my Red SRM. I'm waiting on new 11-spd chainrings but it works ok with 10-spd version. Ultegra shifted more crisply (no surprise there) but hopefully the updated rings will bring it closer.

Your stem was obtained by your bike's original owner directly from the company. Before others start calling up Felt, maybe it'd be good to point out who the "original owner" is.

Nice build! The comfort of that bike impresses me every time I point the bike down the dirt roads and fire at will. Glad you found the same.

How do you like the $300 sprint shifters? Dialing in the new shifting system to work as you want is a great way to personalize the performance of the Di2 system, too. The speed at which the multi-tap engages and the number of cogs that move when you hold down the button are all adjustable.

The 3T wheels were just part of the rest of the 3T package, the price is considerably less than the Zipp 303/404 option and I can't find a $6000 road bike that comes with aluminum wheels so the carbon hoops seemed to be the right spec. Wheels are getting to be like saddles anymore with guys buying condition specific wheels based on their strengths and courses. I use the Shimano C75 wheels but I'd never put them on a bike at the OEM level. The 3T wheelset is a good balance for an "all-rounder" I think. Using 50mm deep wheels has proven to be a bad choice when dealers try to sell bikes to novices on test rides in Texas during the windy season.

Make sure the rear brake is centered with the spring adjustment moving both arms at the same time. The cable housing needs to be free of any kinks so assembly must be carefully looked after. The brake will invariably have a softer lever feel than the front as there is more than twice as much housing so you'll get more compression. There are also more "bends" that get pulled straight when the brake cable is under tension so you lose a little lever travel. The rear quick release might not be needed if your rim widths are similar. A simple inline adjuster might do the trick. Run conventional housing from the brake lever to the inline adjuster and compressionless (Nokon, Jagwire KEB, Avid FlakJacket, Jagwire Link, etc...) housing to the rear caliper.

-SD

Yeah, you guys did stellar work in that bike.

Totally get the wheel spec, makes perfect sense for price point. Can't really throw on everyday al rims and DAs or Zipps would get to pricey. Ironically, I've been on Prologo saddles for a while and like that one.

I've played around with the sprint shifting but haven't tuned it yet. I'm not much of a sprinter and probably not the best one to ask, but it is conveniently accessible. The shift speed was already about what I liked so it was a natural transition. Love how you can run up or down the cassette by merely holding down a button.

The rear brake is probably a matter of getting used to. It seems to have a "lighter" feel than Red, which is part of it. Although I did a double take when I looked down while riding and saw the brake arm sticking out so far. Second double take was when I changed rear brake pad and noticed it bulging from the middle because of the set screw placement. Couple swipes with razor sufficiently modified carbon pads but what type do you recommend for that brake?

SuperDave has posted in several threads that flat stems are now available to order through your dealer - first come first serve.

a 54? lots-o-seatpost, compared to what I can run :)

I cant test the rear brake on mine until, well, late march maybe? it is supposed to be above 0 today