It’s 10 miles, do you really care about 10-20 secs in savings over current wheel set? Also at 135, I’m similar weight you run the risk of handling issues as you’ve never ridden that depth a front wheel. I say stick with what you know and ride on, the familiarity is worth at least 10 secs.

Thank you.

My bigger story is I started Tri on a road bike coming from a running background. Everyone said:

1. Wait until you get a Tri Bike. You'll be flying. I bought a P2. No faster.
2. Wait until you get a TT fit. You'll be awesome. I've had 3 in four years. No faster.
3. Wait until you get an aero lid. You'll be amazing. Bought the LG P09. Nothing.

Now everyone is saying, "Dude, you need race wheels", so I thought I'd rent them and give it a try.

On the time savings, I usually finish top-10 and I can tell you everyone who beats me has a disc wheel.

Lastly, as I read the ST thread "Post your power, etc. from your last race", I am pushing the same power and riding 1-3 mph slower than those reporting races of similar distance and bodyweight.

How's your fit? Could be the loss from relatively poor body position is costing you speed at similar power.

1. Wait until you get a Tri Bike. You'll be flying. I bought a P2. No faster.
2. Wait until you get a TT fit. You'll be awesome. I've had 3 in four years. No faster.
3. Wait until you get an aero lid. You'll be amazing. Bought the LG P09. Nothing.

Now everyone is saying, "Dude, you need race wheels", so I thought I'd rent them and give it a try.

On the time savings, I usually finish top-10 and I can tell you everyone who beats me has a disc wheel.

Lastly, as I read the ST thread "Post your power, etc. from your last race", I am pushing the same power and riding 1-3 mph slower than those reporting races of similar distance and bodyweight.

If that 10-20 seconds (and the money you paid for it) makes a difference to you thand n go for it; just know how to use extenders etc. I made that mistake the first and only time I rented a wheelset and ended up with a flat tire when I got to T1!

Hard to describe. I wouldn't say I'm looking to spend money to get 10-20 seconds. Of course, if it's more aero, I'll theoretically have more for the run, which is my strength. Still, even if it's 30-45 seconds total between the bike and run, I'm not simply looking to buy the time. Consider this, though:

• I finished 5th in my last race. Was 8 seconds behind 4th (who beat me by 2:10 on the bike) and 32 seconds behind 3rd. Both had a disc.
• I finished 13th in the race before that. Lost AG by 3 seconds. Was 1:40 behind 6th place. I was beaten on the bike by 1:00, 1:30, 1:30, 3:00, 1:00, and 3:30 by the guys in 6th - 12th. I outran all but two of them.

I guess the thread has gone a little awry from my original request from "What should I try" to "Is it worth it" for me?

After engaging here, I guess my question is really both. Given nothing else seems to make me faster, why should I expect wheels to? I'm nowhere near a pro. I'm not going to Kona. But, I train hard, I am competitive, and love to race so I hate the thought that I'm racing and giving away time due to equipment. The only thing left for me to try is wheels.

How can we possibly answer “is it worth it to you” if you can’t even make that determination? We have given you all the info to make that decision.

Do you want us to vote yes/no it is/isn’t worth it to you? We can do that I suppose.

Is the only thing left to try wheels?

Your return on investment is very low. The difference between 404/808 from 38/50mm is marginal. You originally asked 'what would you do?'
I would not change my wheel. I'd put a disc cover on the back for a cheaper option (that can be used again in future races, if desired) to equate the benefits of a full disc and look for other ways to pick up speed/time.

More aero clothing, tires, tubes, cables on the bike, aero helmet...These could help, if not yet done.


What was the VI on the ride? Perhaps you rode it imperfectly with power surges rather than more consistently. (*Although my sprint has gotten awfully close to 100% of my FTP, I made 0.99 IF last race) And, do you know if the others who had faster speeds at similar power profiles had better VI's or not? And are the PM's even comparable?

I'd have to believe that there are aero losses in those comparisons, or differences in the PM's.


You have not shown a picture or described your setup, just asked about the change in wheels. Trivial and expensive gain=not worth it to me.

Considering what you have written in the thread I would go disc with a 404. Putting an 808 in there on a windy day could see you riding slower if you are fighting it, and is unlikely to gain you much over a 404 in calmer conditions. Maybe a few second at best. Check tyres and pressures - if we are talking seconds good tyres with low RR and correct pressures is essential. Are you loading your frame with 'stuff'? If so get rid of it for a sprint - chance a puncture or keep spares to the absolute basics and don't hang it in the wind. I would also check the bearings of the rented wheels before you stick them in your bike - don't get anything too wide if your frame will not accept them.

I would also be tempted to check things like bottom bracket and brakes for issues - just to be sure you are not loosing power through your drive train. Sounds like you could be going faster with your current set up but just not quite go there yet?

Good luck.

This was awesome. Thanks.

VI from last race was 0.93. IF was 0.91.

I'll work on the pic.

Thinking about renting race wheels for an upcoming sprint.

Course is flat. 10 miles. Close to the beach so sometimes is windy.

I'm 135 pounds on a good day.

Current wheel depth is 38mm front 50mm back.

Looking at Zipp 404/Disc or 808/Disc configurations.

What would you do?

I thought VI had to be 1.0 or higher, mathematically speaking?

Work on your swim....