jackmott wrote:

I will be trying it on a P2 soon, will keep ya posted.

Subscribing!

I just had the fork off and looked/poked around inside the head tube area. At least for my '12 P2, there were no obstructions (the cables can hug the bend for a pretty clean run). Also, the top tube appears to have lots of layers of carbon and structural integrity to spare. I would trust in the safety factor of the design, but I'm pretty scrawny and tend to keep the 1500W sprints to a minimum...

It's a rainy day here and work is slow... the only thing holding me back is my 3T Ventus; I would have to take a hacksaw to the stem airfoil to get sufficient cable clearance. NBD, but it's a shame to mar something so beautiful!

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I haven't done this mod., but I doubt the cable will saw through the liner if you take some simple precautions. Think about all the tight bends that shift cables normally take in cable housing. I've taken apart a lot of bikes, and I've never seen where the shift cable sawed through the housing liner in a tight cable bend. Also remember that shift cables are under a lot less load than brake cables. But if I was doing this mod., I would measure the outside diameter of the shift cable liner and then go buy some flexible hard plastic tubing that has an inside diameter that is nearly the same as the cable liner's outside diameter. I would use a short length of the plastic tubing as a short "housing" piece (with the liner) in the frame to route the shift cable from the top of the toptube to the upper section of the downtube. Then just run the exposed cable inside the downtube to the BB cable guide as before.

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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Good idea. I even already have a piece of 1/8" inch "high pressure" tubing that would fit the bill. When I checked inside the headtube area, I found that the bend where the TT and DT meet has a decent radius. I was worried that the raw carbon would taper to a point that would concentrate pressure on the cable and expedite the deterioration.

You guys are talking me off the ledge, and not in the good direction...

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
ASICS | Ventum | Martin's | HED | VARLO | Shimano | 4iiii | Keystone Communications

I just did the mod on my P2 and I couldn't be happier with the results. No surprises or screw ups!

If anyone is interested, I posted detailed instructions and pictures on my blog, including what I think are some improvements over TriRig's method:

Cervelo 2.1: DIY internal cable routing

Feedback and questions are welcome.

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CodyBeals.com | Instagram | TikTok
ASICS | Ventum | Martin's | HED | VARLO | Shimano | 4iiii | Keystone Communications

Is this with the shift cables going in the top of the top tube or not? It looks like it isn't, but I can't be 100% sure based on the pic.

I just ordered these again to do my P2C conversion that I did with my SLC before. I decided to use these (Modified) because the hole diameter you have to drill is about 4.75mm instead of 7mm and I want as small of a hole as possible.

No, just zip tied to keep the close to the frame.
Which might be bad

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
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Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

if you have any side shots, I'd be interested in seeing those. Seems like a warranty keeping option with a near similar benefit.

Could be worse than having them out in the wind, since they interrupt the airfoil of the downtube and headtube instead.

don't have a side shot handy but it is just a zip tie behind the stem basically.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

Nice. Where did you source these?

Not sure if I miss it as there is a lot of content here but has anyone addressed plugging the original cable holes?

I am also about to undertake this project and was curious about what people were doing about plugging the old holes. Also, has anyone tried to mod an older P2 to fit the new torhans bento boxes that come standard on the new 2014 p2's? I would like to see where someone else has drilled into the frame and inserted the post holes to screw a bento into, just trying to clean up my '09 P2 as much as possible. Any other ideas? I would also love to see if anyone has somehow modified a speed concept draft box to fit a P2

Forgot to reply sorry.

http://www.ebay.ca/...;hash=item2595b9d2a2

The original idea came from working in my garage and seeing a solid brake noodle for a V-Brake then realizing that the bend was too tight for my frame. I then searched on Ebay for a better alternative. Seeing the flexible noodles, I figured that I could bend them to my liking and they would also put a little tension on the cable. Also since I am using the Mini I-link housing, the cable guide fits into these very well and allows me to run the housing past the bend in the HT section.

It works very well and once I have the P2 paint sorted out then I can't wait to get this built up and hours and hours with it on the trainer over the winter.

Check out TriRig's facebook post about the Service Course build of @PaulBarney Matthews' bike. I asked him about how he installed the Torhans bento with custom m5 bento bosses.
Don't know how to link the post here but I'm sure you'll find it.

Adding bolt bosses to a carbon frame is absolutely possible. There are various methods, some people have used T-nuts, but this is not a good idea, as you will end up damaging the carbon top tube over a large area. Plus, you can't use the T-nuts as they are designed to be used, you have to use them backwards, they will not be held on securely or by any mechanical means. The far better solution (and the one that all established carbon fiber frame shops and repair houses use) is to use metric rivnuts. These are the strong and secure bosses that allow you to carry a waterbottle on your P2. The holes needed by rivnuts will be small and they can be inserted and installed 'blindly', i.e., without needing access to the back side of the frame wall. If you are very confident in your mechanical and drilling skills, then you can learn about how to install them on the web (lots of videos and info, they are used a lot in aviation). If not, any good and reputable builder who works with carbon fiber frames (calfee, et al) can do it for you. Once you get the bolt bosses in, you can also try the Speedpack 480D or Speedpack 483D for top tube bolt mounting, as well as product from torhans and others.

Greg @ dsw


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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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I am seriously considering this especially with me doing the top tube cable entry and of course changing the paint as I am doing. My only concern is drilling out the holes for the M5 as I think maybe M4 or M3 options might be better to keep the hole size smaller. As you might have seen, I did smaller holes for the TT cable entry on the P2 and SLC as I wanted to keep it as small as possible. If I was to do this modification as well, it would have to be as small as possible again. Maybe M4 with a large button head bolt might be the best of both worlds instead of going with the bigger M5 version.

I like in principle what Nick did but with all of those holes in a carbon frame, it sort of spooks me a bit.

Not a bad idea at all to go to one smaller bolt size, but you really should use rivnuts, and not anything else. The top tube is the last place in the world where you would want a catastrophic failure ...



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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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I would only use Rivnuts as I am looking for them now and think I will buy some M4 and do some testing before I try this. I have some carbon at home that I can test this on so I might give it a go and mount a bento on the top tube.

M3 Rivnut = 5mm hole
M4 Rivnut = 6mm hole
M5 Rivnut = 7mm hole

Still bigger holes than I really want to drill in the top tube after I have already drilled two holes.

Sweet. Send me some dimensions/pics of the bike in question and I can recommend an optimal Speedpack and some suggested dimensions for the distance from the steerer to the bosses.

Greg @ dsw



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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
--

Going on my P2C but if I can sort out the details before, I will let you know.

Resurrecting this old lad after coming across the following article and video on tririg, demonstrating the installation of M5 rivet nuts to provide top tube bosses. I am considering this, erm, tentatively. Already planning to make the top tube mod for derailleur cabling.

http://www.tririg.com/...rage_Bosses_Tutorial

I was about to do this myself and was hesitating then the day I Was like ok I'm doing it... he posted that up and it just reinforced my decision.

Haven't done it yet only because I have the alpha on the way and I want to recable first (through the top tube) so I can set the distance right, that and my DSW bag hasn't shown up yet. But I took all he equipment home from work to do it.

What frame you thinking about doing this on? I'm considering it for my classic P3, in addition to the top tube cable mod. I'm going for the Torhans Aerobento, there are some smart examples of this out there and it will look pretty sweet behind my Tririg Sigma flat stem..

...if I have the balls...!

Mine is an open mold, but I had the fork out when swapping on the sigma a few weeks back and could feel inside and there is plenty of meat so not concerned. (ok a little but not much anymore).

The main hesitation on doing the cable mod has actually been there isn't as much of an open area behind the headtube like some of the P2/3 frames have so I was thinking it would bind. I'm going to get around that buy using some steel car brake line tubing. I'll flare the end so it fits in the 5mm jagwire frame stops (will need to be drilled out) the same way you would flare it for a brake line fitting. I Can then pre bend that in a nice soft bend that flows smoothly into the downtube. I should be able to source some that I can put the cable liner inside.

Well I"m going to bend it up and check it will make the curve before I drill :)