I've had mine there for a year and a half. No problem ever (so far!). I thought the same thing but it has not been an issue at all.

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Gary Geiger
http://www.geigerphoto.com Professional photographer

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Why change the brake to an Omega? (Just curious)

I replaced the front brake already, and I like the improved stopping power. In addition I find it much easier to adjust, which is a huge bonus for me

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Sr. Salitre

I have one on a Felt AR road bike and had on other in my former IA tri bike. Both had the covers on and never dislodged including riding over some pretty harsh railroad tracks last night. Also agree with you that the stopping power is much better mainly due to eliminating the noodle bend and having a straight pull cable.

Personally I wouldn't change out the brake. I had a Shiv that I did put a Omega down there and now a Dimond with dual Omegas. They are fine in the dry and no dirt environment but on the back they fill with water and crap. Their performance becomes poor unless you regular service them and the magnet has rusted and fallen out of two rear caps now. I would run the magnetic cap as it will keep as much muck out the brake but it is also like a swimming pool for collecting water. I only persist as between training and racing wheels width it is very easy to adjust but I am due replacing the one on the rear as it's performance is a bit average even after servicing and lubing.

I botched a TriRig onto my Cervelo P4's bottom bracket. I left the magnetic cover on, hasn't fallen off (yet). I think it's good to have it there; If you leave the internals exposed I'm pretty sure the road grime will eat it alive.

As for adjustability: you may find that you can't get to the little 3mm hex bolts you use to adjust the thing, at least on the drive side, because the chainrings are in the way. I can't get to mine, but maybe the Shiv is different and it sits lower, allowing better access. So caveat emptor, and if you have proper stopping now (and I define that as any stopping better than the P4's OEM brake), I wouldn't bother. Because really, how often do you use your back brake?

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Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

I just cut an allen key off on the short end to allow me to adjust the brakes with the chain rings in the way. You can't get good rotation per insert, but usually the adjustment is only a few twists anyways. I have a Shiv, and you couldn't adjust it with the rings I have using an unmodified allen key. I just recently installed the Omega X, as I had an Omega SV, and the brake arms were just a tad short, causing occasional sidewall cutting of tires if I didn't keep on top of the brake pads wearing down. The allen keys are cheap, and I just keep it with all my brake junk in the tool box.

That's pretty clever. I'm going to see if I have a 3mm allen key laying around. Probably I do; I have built tons of Ikea furniture in my time :-)

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Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

For clarity, the stance width adjustment bolts are M4 set screws, which are adjusted with a 2mm hex wrench. The pad holder screws (which affix the pad holder itself to the brake arm) are M5 button head screws, which are adjusted with a 3mm hex wrench.

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TriRig.com

Ugh. I'm an idiot. But, in my defence, also 110km (70mi) away from my P4.

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Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

I've got the plate on my front and rear Omega X's on my shiv.

cuzzzz the stock brakes on the Shiv are horrendous.

It wasn't meant as a dig at you, just a PSA for the sake of clarity in case someone wanted to run out and dremel their hex key.

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TriRig.com

Heh. Even if it was: I'm a big boy, I can handle it

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Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.

Hey team. I actually just sent TriRig a message on Facebook about my problem but I thought I would ask here as this thread is strangely relevant.

I have a 2015 Shiv Pro with original Omega calipers front and rear with 3T Revo cockpit and TRP R970 brake levers. To get the bike stopped for a dead turn or at the mount line, I need to go 100% lever throw to make it feel like the bike is going to pull up. Any smaller lever throw doesn't seem to do much. It's almost like there is too much happening before the brake caliper actually squeezes the brake pad into the braking surface enough to properly slow the bike down. If I go from about 20kmh and use rear brakes only, the bike takes about 10m to stop. Front and rear is about 5m and comparable to my road bike.

I wanted to know if this was normal for the Shiv or if I should be getting better performance out of the Omega/Shiv combination. I have faith in the brakes, but not 100% confidence. I don't know if I would be keen to take the bike on a race course that featured too many decent hills. In saying that, I have tried standard Shiv calipers on it as well and the performance was much the same. I would love to know if this is just how these bikes are or if I should be chasing something else to improve the performance. I'm really happy with the Omega brakes and how they work, but I just wanted to know if they should be working better than they are.

Cheers!

I personally think Omega brakes are adequate for a tt bike but their performance is not great by any means compared to standard road calipers on my road bike. The question I have to ask you though is what pads are you using and what sort of rims? I find most brake pads on carbon rims to be sub par and by far the best braking is Reynolds blue or Lifeline blue at a fraction of a cost. Crap pads on carbon rims with tt levers and Omega brakes is not a great combination...

http://www.wiggle.com.au/lifeline-performance-carbon-road-brake-inserts-pack-of-4--1/

I have used the Lifeline pads for the last little while now and have changed them to the pads that came with my TokyoWheel 7.10 wheelset that turned up last week. A few weeks ago I did change the pads and wheels from my road bike onto the TT to check performance and things were much the same as my old race wheels and the Lifeline pads. Due to this experiment, I have isolated any performance to something to do with the bike itself. Again, the slow speed braking is comparable to my Venge running Ultegra brakes, but the rear brake on its own leaves a bit to be desired. I just wanted to check if this is common across Omega/Shiv setups.

Drill little hole in chainring if necessary....

Not properly adjusted.

100% not the case. The pads are pretty much up against the rim braking surface and the block is as high up as I can get it without the arms protruding well and truly outside the caliper cover. It's almost like the cable is made from rubber bands (have changed the cables) or the first 50% of the brake lever is the brake pad moving against the rim and braking, the next 50% of the lever throw isn't the caliper braking harder, but the pad compressing. It's hard to explain.

I have emailed TriRig and they have suggested replacing the calipers to the new Omega X and also changing the levers to Shimano levers that have a better pull ratio. I'll be doing each of these in due course.

I used the old style direct mount brakes on my Shiv and the new non direct mount style on my Dimond and the performance on the rear is mediocre/acceptable at best. I personally did not notice much difference in performance between both brakes on the front or rear so I wouldn't rush to spend more money. I would buy a Shimano or Sram direct mount standard brake rear personally for performance and reduced maintenance unless like me you have varying width racing and training wheels and like the ease/laziness of having an Omega.

You can try using compressionless housing too, like Jagwire links.