It'd be more encouraging for me if you mentioned that Shimano had at least kept current with the other companies with a 12 or 13 speed coming out. Glad I'm not due for a new bike this year--as I'd just wait another year anyhow if that were the case.

It is still the 11 speed cassette.

So I have the "old" di2 which I updated the firmware and one component to get syncro shift. You just shift up or down and it'll automatically shift front derailleur when it needs to. There are many ways to tweak syncro shift by either hooking it up to a computer or wirelessly by phone app. You can set it up so that when you hold the button down longer, it will shift x amount vs just once.

I think it depends on what you want. If you can test out the difference, I would. I didn't like syncro shift at first because I was just used to the "old way." Also there was a slight delay when it shifts both front and rear which I wasn't used to. I started using semi-syncro shift at first (di2 would automatically adjust rear only). But now I am full syncro and love it. After getting used to it, I don't find a problem with it even on hilly courses (I often do long rides on IMWI course).

It's not a perfect analogy but it's like going from manual to auto transmission in a car. My first car was a manual, and I also rode a motorcycle before I owned a car. Now I drive a CVT. Do I miss manual? Sometimes, but for the type of driving I do I'd rather have my CVT.

For a tri, especially HIM and IM distance I love using syncro. It kind of convinced me to get 1x mechanical for my gravel/cross and MTB. If I were doing crits (which I don't), I think I'd prefer my old roadie with mechanical shifting. I don't feel a need for electronic for my roadie.

I have both. The old version on my tri bike and the new on my road. I have no issues with the old di2, but I do like being able to program the new. There are lots of different programable things. I don't know that I'd like just having one button though; I have my road (new di2) bike set to synchro on both shifters because it's nice to have a free hand even when I'm shifting. It was also really nice when I screwed up my shoulder and had to bike with one arm(zwift). The big downside to synchro is that when you shift and it goes from big to small in the front or vice versa, it shifts both front and rear, so there's a lot going on. This can be problematic if your pressing hard and not ready for it.

Keep in mind, on a road bike you can set up each side individually, so you can do big to little on left and synchro on right. You also have buttons on the hoods, so you can set those up however you like as well.

I love di2 and will never buy another bike without it. Just the other day my new bike was in the shop so I threw my old non di2 on the trainer and let me tell you, dealing with all the shifting stuff was a blast from the past.

 I don't feel a need for electronic for my roadie.

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F that. I could never ride Di2 with one bike and not have it with others, it would drive me too crazy. I crashed my Di2 bike and had to have a loaner regular shifting bike and for the 1st ride back took me 10 mins to get over not having auto shifting..


#firstworldproblems

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Brooks Doughtie, M.S.
Exercise Physiology
-USAT Level II

You can use the old two button shifters with the 'new DI2' as Patrick Lange chooses too. Personally can't understand that someone serious would want to use syncro shift and run single buttons myself? Sometimes on a hill I may be able to get over by fully cross clustering and then be banging down the gears on the descent rather than swapping the small chainring and back again. I don't want an electronic brain controlling my choices.

https://www.tririg.com/galleries.php?id=2018_10_Patrick_Lange_Canyon_Speedmax_SLX

question - can u add sprint shifters and program them to shift the front ring?

I was referring more to tri as the OP seemed to me eluding to. I have no idea with road and what sprint shifters can do I have Etap on my road bike...

also wasmre general question thrown into ether

This isn't really new... it is the current version of Dura Ace 9150 and Ultegra 8050 that have been out for more than a year. On TT bike setups, they only have the single buttons and are intended to be in Synchro mode, where the system automatically shifts your front derailleur. I have had this since last year, and it works great. I would not have it any other way.

The road bike setup of Di2 still has independent buttons for both derailleurs. Or, you can configure that to be in synchro mode and only use two of the buttons. Or do both.

If you want to make a FD jump, you would have to click through the gears to force it. However, in practices, this is rare. IMHO, synchro mode on a TT bike is fantastic. You just ride and let Di2 do the thinking for you. And, if you have a Garmin, it will beep to indicate the next shift will be a FD shift.

Thank you - this is helpful explanation. This is for a tribike I want to buy.
I guess I need to experience it to fully understand the synchro shift aspect. I am so used to selecting a small gear by jumping from big chain ring to small when approaching a hill that I can't grasp having to move the gears on the back and then waiting for the FD to change on its own. That is exciting to hear about the Garmin interface as I am getting a new one along with a new bike!
John

Di2 shifts so quickly and efficiently that you barely notice. Plus, you can configure the shift-points on the cassette that will trigger the FD shift and how many RD moves to make to compensate. It is dark magic, and it works great, especially if you got the Garmin beep to alert you.

I ride on a rails-to-trails with occasional road crossings. I want the bike in a low gear when I resume after a crossing, so I just click the left button a bunch as I approach. The drivetrain chatters as it does its thing, and I never have to think. Then as I get going again, I just shift back as needed.

I have one button on my aero bars and two buttons on my brakes. Love it this way.

I have the road bike version. Here's what I don't like about synchro: normally when I decide it's time to switch to the small ring in front I shift up a gear or two in the back first to compensate. Synchro shifts in the front first, so there's a second or two where you're just left spinning. Could be annoying if it happens unexpectedly as you're sprinting up a hill, maybe dangerous if someone's on your wheel. Perhaps not so bad in a time trial situation.

Thank you, this is what I was worried about - that is won't function exactly as it would if I changed the gears.

In practice, you really do not notice on a TT bike. It is so quick, that I have wondered if it even did the compensating shifts on the RD. I do agree with AndyCaleb that it would be disconcerting on a road bike. I have eTap on my road bike for the total control. But, I would choose Di2 and synchro for a TT bike every time.

OK - thanks. Helpful to hear of your experience.
John

This article makes much more sense now that I read it: https://fitwerx.com/...o-shift-triathletes/

They key to me liking synchro shift is the d-fly unit. It syncs to my 520 and beeps before the shift point up or down so I know it’s coming. It also beeps when you have 1 gear left up or down.

I just got a Garmin 1030 to go along with the new bike. Is this something I set up through Garmin so I get the beep?
Thanks, John

You need the d-fly unit. Then it will sync

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http://www.TriScottsdale.org

I think you can configured that with computer via USB. a specific cable is needed. most shops have it