Thanks for the recommendations rijndael and jaretj!

I recently had my bike that has a power2max meter in for service. Just put it back on the trainer and the meter won't connect with my garmin 910XT or Trainer Road. Any suggestions about what might be wrong. It was working before the tune up.

Other bike with a Powertap works fine.

Silly question but, did you check the battery on the power meter? Not sure if you have a Type S or a Classic but the former has a green light that flashes (visible even when the battery cover is on) after a few minutes of inactivity.

Big "duh" on my part. It was the battery. I didn't think it could be because one day it worked and the next it didn't. Thanks

I have power2max type S and Garmin 810 to read data
Unfortunately, riding outdoor, everytime I am coasting downhill or just not spinning the crank, Garmin records a super high power peak point, >1000W or even more than 2000
I need to edit .tcx and remove it

Do you know if this is a known issue of Power2Max?

I also have another powermeter on another bike and never got this problem (same Garmin 810 paired).

Thanks for asking, I'm getting this question more often and I've been able to make some interesting observations. First, the majority of the issues are happening with Garmin FR 910XT, Edge 510, Edge 500, and Edge 810. Typically what I'm seeing is that the power spikes when there is little to no actual exertion but the spikes can be anywhere from 2000-30,000 watts. It should be noted that we actually limit the values our power meters can transmit to 3000 watts. If you ever see a value over that, you know it's not the power meter, it's either interference or the head unit. Also, this has happened increasingly over the period of the last 6 months with a large increase in the last 3 months. I haven't been able to pin point what it is but I have noticed that switching head units seems to eliminate the problem.

May I ask what the maximum value recorded was?

Only once it went over 2000 but all the others were in 1000-2000 range.

It would be so easy to fix this because the single peak sample is always isolated in the middle of zeros (several before and after are always zeros). Just filtering it out and fix done. I would filter out whatever is isolated, even 500W in the middle of zeros because that is something physically impossible to happen

Hi,
maybe you guys know the answer (tried 'the search' before :P)

I am riding riding the Power2Max S on Rotor 3D cranks and I cannot pick up the cadence info on my Edge 520 (latest firmware installed). I know the PM transmits the data as I can clearly see it on the TrainerRoad app. I tried pairing a new sensor while riding on trainer to be sure that the data is being transmitted and the PM didn't go to sleep.
Any ideas?

Are you getting power?

Yes, power is being displayed, on 902XT, Edge 520 and on TrainerRoad app.

There's no way to divorce cadence from power in the signal our power meters transmit since cadence is used to calculate power in this case. So typically if it was the power meter you wouldn't get either...Have you had a chance to speak with Garmin's support? I'm familiar enough with Garmins to get things going provided everything is working but it sounds like something isn't right with your head units though it is odd that it's the same on multiple units. Is this only happening indoors? Have you tried outside yet? There might be something in the house causing interference...

I just had this happen on a ride on the weekend. For me, I was stopped at an intersection and in the file I see power, cadence and speed are all 0 for a few seconds and then I have a power entry of 1259 and then 9 seconds of 0 power and 5 seconds of 0 cadence but my speed starts increasing at the same time as the 1259w entry (so obviously I am pedalling).

1259w is my new peak power! ;)

Thank you, that's what I needed to know to motivate me to find the 'flaw': A Garmin cadence sensor laying closeby - it was apparently nudged enough to be 'on', reporting zeros. Duh.

Now, cadence shows just fine in addition to power. Thanks for the help.

I currently have a 2010 Cervelo P2 with an S-Type FSA K-Force Light on there. I just bought a Shiv, will I be able to transfer the crankset/powermeter over to the Shiv? If so, what BB or adapters should I be looking to buy?

---

J. Tyler Pate

If your Shiv has a BB30 you'll need a BB30 for MegaExo bb.

Too many options and I'm trying to sort them out. I would appreciate some insight. The Felt IA10 has a BB30. Power2Max provides several options and I'm trying to figure out if there are pros vs cons of the lower priced options.

Best option all around appears to be the Rotor 3D+ - sounds like it just fits

Cheapest possibility is the FSA Gossamer but requires an adapter (any pros vs cons on this?)

Then there is the FSA Gossamer BB386EVO - doesn't say anything about requiring an adapters, but I thought I read somewhere that they provide a spacer for BB30??

Obviously, least hassle sounds like the 3D+, but it is also $300 more than the other two options. Just hoping for some input before I pull the trigger. Thanks!

You're right, with a BB30 BB your options are pretty open with our power meters. I'm pretty partial to the 3D+ because of the pre-load nut. It's a pretty refined way of eliminating play but spacers work just as well.

It's important to distinguish between adapters and actual bottom brackets. There are adapters that will allow you to use a bottom bracket that accommodates a 30mm diameter axle on a crank with a 24mm diameter axle. I don't recommend these. I do however, recommend one of the many BB's that will fit a 24mm axle in a BB30 shell. Think of it as an integrated reducer as opposed to an adapter. The main disadvantage to using the FSA Gossamer is that it's heavier. The BB386EVO will work just fine (and yes it does come with spacers to accommodate a BB30 BB) and it's a bit lighter and stiffer than its MegaExo counterpart. Another advantage to the FSA Gossamer BB386EVO is that it's the most "future proof" standard. The only bike this particular crank won't fit is a BB90 (typically Trek).

So what might your argument be for justifying an additional $300 to go with a 3D + vs the BB386EVO?
Where would the 3D 30 fall into this mix?

It's a matter of perspective really. Anecdotally I ended up with the 3D+ because it seemed like a stiffer crank. I like that the materials are a higher quality and overall the crank was lighter than the Gossamer BB386EVO counterpart. I also like the pre-load nut that much. The wavy washer that FSA uses works but as I said, it's not that refined.

The 3D30 is similar to the 3D+ but it's made in Asia and it uses a different alloy. Also, the drilling structure is a bit different so it's not supposed to be as stiff. Detectable to most riders...doubtful.

Thanks for the info. This at least makes me more comfortable making a decision. You have me leaning towards the 3D+ just because I've already spent so much on my bike and I intend for this to be the last big purchase so, what the heck, might as well do it right. Doubt I'd ever notice any difference but I hate questioning my equipment decisions down the road.

Hi Nicolas:
I have a classic P2M that I used on a Rotor 3d+. I sold the crankset with a bike and want to pick up another Rotor crankset to use the P2M. Will this classic work on a Rotor 3D30? Or will it only work on a 3D+?

Thanks,

David

Hey David, Nicholas isn't with the company any more but we're still happy to help. The 3D+ power meter will work on any 30mm Rotor crank so 3D+,3D30, or 3DF.

I never got an answer to this question....

Quick question:

I have a 2012 felt b12 with an FSA megaexo bottom bracket. Can I use a power2max FSA gossamer bb386evo if I switch to an FSA megaevo bottom bracket? Just want to confirm.

You sure can!