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Thoughts on being an Urban Triathlete
They will not.
Shimano uses different dimensional standards than the brakes on the Shiv..
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"Why would you want to be the last man alive on a sinking ship?" -- on why Tesla shares its patents.
I remarked to a bike shop in the Vegas about problems associated with bleeding these and he seemed very knowledgable about them and knew of this.
Somewhere in the system there is either a ferrule, nipple, o ring or something that must seal a part of the system. I don't know what it is but what ever it is, I was told it must not be reused -under any circumstances.
The mechanic was adamant that if you reuse this part, the system would leak.
Hope this in some way helps.
Less power, more aero.
And also, if you have, a part#?
However, this weekend I did a quintathlon: swim, bike, run, bike run. This means that on the second bike portion, I just had my shoes dangling as I broke the bands on the 1st bike mount. After doing it, I've determined that I don't really need rubber bands, and especially don't need one on the drive side. If you use one rubber ban on your non-drive side attached to the rear skewer, and mount on the left side (left foot on left shoe/pedal) just catch the other shoe after a rotation or two. When I've mounted, as soon as I break the bands, one of the shoes goes dangling anyway, so I need to catch it with the other foot. I now feel that having both of them secured with a band doesn't make any difference. However, I do understand that I may be doing it wrong. If one of them is banded, the non-drive side will just dangle but shouldn't drag on the ground as the crank will be in roughly a parallel position to the ground.
I use the water bottle cage. I put a rubber band..or link two together if they are not long enough around the entire cage. Works perfect for me.
I use the water bottle cage. I put a rubber band..or link two together if they are not long enough around the entire cage. Works perfect for me.[/quote
Yes....this works if you do not have a Fuel Cell.
Got it home, took it for a quick spin down the road and the saddle tilted just a bit.
I returned home to tighten clamp and found small crack on top tube where seat post meets frame.
Bike was in my possession literally 20 minutes.
My LBS was informed immediately and they currently have the bike and "will be calling Spec today"
The bike I purchased was the last 2014 size LG the shop had. Options?
Im completely confident the Spec will totally stand behind it but how long will it take?
I took some pictures of my 2015 Shiv Elite w/ Flo90 front and Flo Disc rear and thought I'd share one. I had the bike professionally fitted, which lowered the stem. The front end is a bit of a mess, but I'm hesitant to tear it all apart and cut the tube, adjust cable length, etc. Maybe I'll be braver when it isn't so new; this is my first tri bike.
Like Houston commented, with the top cap that far from the stem clamp, it's "less than ideal" at best. Not to mention it just doesn't look as clean.
I had guys warning me about cutting my stem, but I hated the look of the spacers on top, and wanted the least garbage up top as I could get.
I had to special order a minimum height "control tower," and of course, cut my cables, but I'm VERY happy with having my stem "slammed".
Has anybody looked at making a drop-in box that replaces the Fuelselage?
So many of us seem to use the Fuelselage only for races since cleaning camelback style bladders sucks. So during training, I use the blind cap. I'd love to have a little pull-up box that would hold my cell phone, gels, tool kit, spare tubes, whatever... Seems like that's an awfully big volume that could be capitalized upon during training. It'd have to be on tracks or something such that it slid up for access, otherwise stiff enough that you could pull it up, then push it back down.
I don't know how I didn't post this up on this thread already, but I went back and didn't find it. So this pic doesn't have the minimum height Control Tower in place behind the stem yet, which adds about 1/4" on top of the cable insert frame boss there and evens it up a bit with the top of the stem. I've also flipped the angled insert in the stem and ditched the aerobar spacers to drop the front end about a 1/2", and tipped my seat down a bit to mate it up.