1> I'll have to pester folks still using the LYC. Thanks

2> Thanks. Will do.

3> Thanks for the info.

Thanks for the reply. How can I manually update the firmware? Running the utility on Poweragent says my firmware is up to date. I have firmware 7.60- based on your post there's a later version.

I really want to get a PowerTap, but not an extra wheel. I have a road bike with HED Ardennes wheels, love them, light and durable. Tri Bike with stock heavy Shimano R500 and use them on the trainer (Using TrainerRoad gives me some power info) I have a set of new Reynolds Assault, which could be my "race wheels"

So two questions:

How tricky is it to add a PT to an existing wheel and who can do that in Vancouver?
Which wheel to add it to, the Reynolds or HED? I won't be doing many tris this year, mostly riding, condos, hill climb races and Time Trials.

Thanks for any advice.

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Cervelo R3 and Cannondale Synapse, Argon18 Electron Track Bike

As far as which wheels, thats up to you. Do you want power mostly for training or mostly for racing. Which ever wheelset you pick, as long as the spoke nipples are visible it should be straight forward. Figure the price of the hub, $3-4 a spoke for aerospokes (if its a race wheel) and $40 to rebuild. Find a local shop that still sells lots of steel bikes and have the old guy do the work.

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Styrrell

Thanks Powertap for making such an awesome awesome product. I own two wired PTs and got my training buddy to buy a wired and wireless as well. I was wondering if you still offered the wired to wireless upgrade? I have a gen 1 hub(two screws holding the cover on) and a SL hub.

relative powertap newbie here... having calibration issues. using a LYC. i have the 2.4 model before it went ant+.

bought a powertap several months ago - was in great condition with low miles. celebration seemed to be fine - numbers were not crazy or anything.

but I'm now having issues with weird readings. power numbers seem to be 100-125watts higher than they should be. I tried 'zeroing' by holding down the right button (it shows a blinking 23-24w - then goes to zero when i press something else. it goes this everytime. i'm not sure if i should wait for i should wait longer?). at rest the reading is zero, but when coasting down hill, the reading does not go down to zero anymore (it used to). it reads between 70-130w even when coasting.


suggestions?

or am i going to have to send it in for $350? :\

Hey follow up on the venerable LYC.......

I was looking at data from today, and while seated at a cadence varied 68-73(yeah I know it is imaginary) the watts were 234-300 over 110 seconds 264w avg
while moments later standing(larger gear inches) 58-62 cadence, 246-279 for 110 sec 259 avg

why would this be? the standing data looks as if it were recorded on the Garmin 500

Brian,
A couple questions about the LYC for an athlete I coach:
1. How do you calibrate?
2. How do you get into interval mode?
3. Is it possible to see average watts in the interval mode?

Thanks!

1> http://www.cycleops.com/...als/CervoPro/286.pdf
2> http://www.cycleops.com/...als/CervoPro/286.pdf
3> http://www.cycleops.com/...als/CervoPro/286.pdf

Make sure you buy a hub with the same # of spokes you currently have and that the rim doesn't have to use a specific hub do to special spoke holes. Then most bike shops should be able to build it up for you.

I've done 2 PT wheels like that, bought the hub ripped out everything had them build it back up.

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Brian Stover USAT LII
Accelerate3 Coaching
Insta

Guess I should have specified that I had already studied the manual, as well as the Saris website for this info. I did find how to get in interval mode. Which page number explains whether or not you can see average watts in interval mode and if so, how to do that? and which page number shows the steps to calibrate? I found the "t-function" in the back, but since I don't own a LYC myself, I was looking for step by step on how to do the calibration. What page is that on?

Bumping for answer to this as well. Latest Poweragent for mac downloaded this week says 7.6 is latest firmware.

1. You can't calibrate the slope of the PT but you can zero the offset and check the slope calibration. Instructions to zero it are in the manual and you can google 'powertap stomp test' for info on checking calibration. http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...rum.cgi?post=2327720 has some discussion on the stomp test.
2. Press & hold mode button to enter interval mode ('INT' should be displayed on left side). Intervals are marked by pressing select and mode together.
3. Use the mode button to highlight the top line where Watts are displayed. Once the top line is highlighted pressing the select key will cycle through power, average power and max power. This works whether you are in normal or interval mode. In interval mode it gives you the avg and max power for the interval.

If power doesn't go to zero when coasting with the Cervo (LYC) you should double check that the auto zero is still turned "on"


Instructions here: (pg. 25)


http://www.cycleops.com/pdfManuals/CervoPro/286.pdf

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Jesse Bartholomew

We've got a great new PowerTap upgrade program in place with lots of options. Give us a call at 1-800-783-7257 (we're closed the 1st).

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Jesse Bartholomew

Reason for no back-light in the Joule is battery life. We wanted to use a coin cell in the Joule vs. re-chargable in the GPS for ease of use in terms of not having to re-charge every few days etc.

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Jesse Bartholomew

Yes, the data streams are different depending on the hub + computer combination you're using.

This is the reason behind the "+" in certain hub models like:

Elite+
Pro+
SL+
SL 2.4+ (this is simply a 2.4 model that was field upgraded to the + version)

These + models actually broadcast 2 wireless protocols simultaneously, the standard ANT+ protocol and our legacy wireless protocol based on ANT. If these models are paired to a Joule 2.0 or Cervo (LYC) they'll use the legacy protocol, of which the biggest difference is that is uses the old 1.26 second data transmission rate (note that the core measurement inside the hub is the same at roughly 60hz, the G3 has an increased measurement rate inside the hub but only uses the standard ANT+ protocol).


If these hubs are paired to an ANT+ computer such as the Garmin Edge 500 it uses the 1 second rate.


Since we're going rather technical here, another important note and major reason for our delay in adopting the ANT+ protocol a few years back is a fundamental difference in how ANT+ uses a running sum of data so two consecutive packets are subtracted to create the real-time data. This creates a *slight* delay in the data transmission. This always kind of bugged us because one of the benefits of the power meter is instantaneous feedback and this could compromise that but in the end the difference is small.

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Jesse Bartholomew

powertap - I've heard that there is a threshold of zero offset that has to be hit before coasting will cause an auto-zero - is that true, and what is that threshold? does it depend on the head unit or is that all done in the hub?

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

There is a threshold (it's very low) but it's also speed dependent (there needs to be some). That's about as specific as I want to be on the auto-zero details publicly.


Where the auto-zero is actually performed does depend on the hub and computer combination but the end results are the same no matter what. Long story short, all ANT+ devices require the auto-zero be initiated by the sensor itself or inside the hub in the case of the PowerTap. This is sometimes confusing depending on how the ANT+ computer presents the auto-zero feature and the ability to turn it on and off.


Older wired power meters like the SRM and PowerTap actually initiate the auto-zero from the computer. This was also another big headache for those power meters that were in the market prior to the ANT+ conversion.

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Jesse Bartholomew

Interesting, so if I wanted to make it more likely to cause an auto-zero, should I be going faster or slower?

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

The faster the better but there have been some issues with PowerTap G3 users who have a Garmin and inadvertently turning the auto-zero off altogether.

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Jesse Bartholomew

intrigued here, does this extend to overseas users?

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I reject your reality and substitute my own!
Adam Savage

For the moment the upgrade applies to USA customers only, sorry.

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Jesse Bartholomew

My PowerTap

http://500px.com/photo/21367265

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Park City Condo Rentals
http://www.traverseridge.com

Wow! Not a PT owner as of yet but seriously considering going this route. I have to say I am EXTREMELY impressed by this thread and Powertap's willingness to answer any and all questions with real answers. This is very rare and is definitely a big plus in my book.

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Pete Githens
Reading, PA