Login required to started new threads

Login required to post replies

Prev Next
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [jesse@bontrager] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I saw the PowerTap trade in program. Any chance this would extend to a G3 hub? I have more wheels than I know what to do with, so I don't need any more wheel sets. I would, however, like to get a couple to upgrade existing wheels.
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [grumpier.mike] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I have a few questions about the upgrade program as well. Also, can anyone tell me if he G3 hub can be mated with a a Mavic cosmic carbon SLR wheelset or an Oval Concepts 945 carbon wheelset?

Thanks in advance.

Mike
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [MCSLC] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
The guy that started this thread (Jesse@bontrager) was once Jesse@powertap, but no longer works for Powertap, hence the change in his user name. I'm not sure anyone at Powertap or Cycleops is actually monitoring this thread to reply to questions like Jesse did..
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Burnt Toast] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Thanks. Yes I see that we're in the woods alone here a bit (sound of crickets....). Hopefully someone can provide some help.

Mike
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
after using my powertap g3 happily for almost 1 year it has started to act kinda weird on me leaving me with some questions.
1. how do you do the auto calibration that garmin suggests when it finds the powermeter? i know you leave the bike alone while, but should it be in a specific gear combo while? i noticed the calibration went from 330 to 430 when i switch from 39-28 to 39-12 gearing and then calibrated, but only did it once, so dont know if it was a glitch

2. my powertap has always shown 500-520 in calibration until about a month ago where it started drifting towards 430 where it is settled at now... the readings seem to be okay and comparable when it was 500 ich, so should i leave it at 430 or send it in to get it recalibrated by powertap? its still within warranty so ill just have to go without my wheel for some time.

3. what can change the value of the calibration? can things like the tightness of the cassette mounted (how much you tightened the cassette screw?), the qr release tightness? the gear combo when calibrating?

hope you can help me clarify it :)

thanks in advance
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [berchrker] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
berchrker wrote:
3. what can change the value of the calibration? can things like the tightness of the cassette mounted (how much you tightened the cassette screw?), the qr release tightness? the gear combo when calibrating?

hope you can help me clarify it :)

thanks in advance

Don't know about the first 2, sounds like your electronics are bugged...

I think it's unlikely you changed anything mechanically that would affect the calibration value.

The freehub is just pushed on, and the lockring isn't going to make a difference. You can pull off the end cap and pull the entire cassette and body off with your hand easily.

QR tightness shouldn't matter either, there are internal spacers to keep the QR compression solid.
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [berchrker] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Have you changed the battery?
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [rijndael] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
yes replaced it 2 months ago when it said low battery, used a GP battery of the same kind as the one already installed, so doubt it running on empty again???
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [berchrker] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Without knowing the current voltage, it's a bit of assumption to say it's not a simple battery issue.
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [rijndael] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
ill try chaning the battery, would love if that fixed it :D
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [SCrono] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Hi SCrono,

Go into PowerAgent and plug your joule in. Then head to configure device. Once the configure screen pops up head to the "rides" tab. Click on the rides you want to delete and then click delete (the delete key on your keyboard). That should clear the rides from your Joule and free up space.

Matt Waite
PowerTap Brand Manager
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [rickthebrick] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Hi Rick,

Call our customer service hotline and they will be able to help you out. The wireless cervos are not backwards compatible to work with wired.

Matt Waite
PowerTap Brand Manager
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [C W] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Hey CW,

You would be fine with that calibration. However it is up to you as I do not know how the powertap was used. I suggest checking it out first if you are worried. We also have a 20% powertap promotion going on right now if interested in a new hub.

Matt Waite
PowerTap Brand Manager
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [grumpier.mike] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Sorry I got to your message before our trade-in program ended. Call our customer service line and they can help you out with your inquiry.

Matt Waite
PowerTap Brand Manager
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Burnt Toast] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Hi all,

Yes this is true, Jesse did move on into a new position at a new company. We have had a little bit of swapping of positions over here at PowerTap. I am the new Brand Manager for PowerTap. I will try to respond to all of your questions the best I can, but please be patient with responses. I do encourage you all to use our well-known customer service at 800.246.5975 or support@powertap.com for quicker help with your questions.

Matt Waite
PowerTap Brand Manager
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [MCSLC] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
MCSLC wrote:
I have a few questions about the upgrade program as well. Also, can anyone tell me if he G3 hub can be mated with a a Mavic cosmic carbon SLR wheelset or an Oval Concepts 945 carbon wheelset?

Thanks in advance.

The Cosmic SLR will not be compatible due to the differing spokes. You should be fine with the Oval. I still recommend that an experience wheelbuilder build up the wheel for you. And remember that the PowerTap hub must be laced as a 2x pattern.

Matt Waite
PowerTap Brand Manager
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [WaiteForIt] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Thank you! What type of powertap hub would be best for the oval wheelset?

Mike
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [berchrker] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
berchrker wrote:
after using my powertap g3 happily for almost 1 year it has started to act kinda weird on me leaving me with some questions.
1. how do you do the auto calibration that garmin suggests when it finds the powermeter? i know you leave the bike alone while, but should it be in a specific gear combo while? i noticed the calibration went from 330 to 430 when i switch from 39-28 to 39-12 gearing and then calibrated, but only did it once, so dont know if it was a glitch

2. my powertap has always shown 500-520 in calibration until about a month ago where it started drifting towards 430 where it is settled at now... the readings seem to be okay and comparable when it was 500 ich, so should i leave it at 430 or send it in to get it recalibrated by powertap? its still within warranty so ill just have to go without my wheel for some time.

3. what can change the value of the calibration? can things like the tightness of the cassette mounted (how much you tightened the cassette screw?), the qr release tightness? the gear combo when calibrating?

hope you can help me clarify it :)

thanks in advance

1) Just make sure that there is no tension on the drivetrain when performing a manual zero. An auto zero occurs while coasting to zero out the values between the hub and the computer. Different gears should not make a difference.

2) If you are seeing 430 I suggest calling our Customer service dept to get the wheel back here for re-calibration. Since it is still under the warranty period you will only have to pay shipping to Saris. Usually a repair/re-calibration only takes a couple days so you should have your wheel back in your hands within a week. Just let our CS team know and they will do their best to not make you wait too long!

3) Cassette will not do much to the calibration. Barometric pressure and quick temperature changes can stretch the strain gauges slightly. I recommend that you let your hub "adapt" to the environment before riding. Ie bring your bike from a hot inside to a cold outside to adapt to the temperature change.

Matt Waite
PowerTap Brand Manager
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [WaiteForIt] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I have a Powertap G3 that is about 10 months old. The last time I replaced the battery I started getting a low battery warning after about 1 month (50 hours.) I have been getting a low battery warning on my Garmin 510 every ride since then. I've put another ~75 hours on the battery with no issues so I don't plan to replace until the power readings start dropping out mid-ride. I have/had been getting 150-200 hours between battery changes. I live in Southern California so it's not weather related. Is this something that can be fixed with a firmware update?
Last edited by: Dunbar: Dec 9, 14 14:47
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Dunbar] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Hello,

I have an older heartrate strap that came with a 2010 Powertap Pro,
does anyone know offhand if it is ant+ compatible ?

Thanks,

L
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [lennyk] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
It probably is...can you post a pict?

jaretj
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [jaretj] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
It apparently is, I was going to take a pic of it but looked on the back and could just barely make out the ant+ logo.

The model number is hrm1g which apparently is a garmin strap
so powertap I guess simply rebranded it as theirs.

thanks,

L
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [WaiteForIt] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
My G3 was calibrating nicely at around 530 ish
recently it will not do this and the power reading whilst I am riding are off compared to my heart rate
I'm getting calibrations of either 700 -odd,
or otherwise - minus250 -odd

any suggestions
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [ajk66] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
Call customer service and prepare to send it in for repair.
Quote Reply
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [WaiteForIt] [ In reply to ]
Quote | Reply
I know this thread is waning towards dead, but I thought I'd add my PowerTap service story for anyone who may care.

Between my wife and I we have 2 PowerTap wheels of the Generation 2 variety or so. (one is a Pro+ and the other a Pro). My wheel started calibrating low (consistently around 430 when it had been consistent around 500 in the same environments) and I decided to call and send it in for service.

Tuesday, "Week 0". Called PowerTap in Madison and noted I had a wheel that likely needed service as it was calibrating low. They provided an address to send it to, a reference number and mentioned they should have it "about a work week". I should note, after 2 calls I noted that I was essentially on eternal hold, so I started to actually use their "leave a message" feature for my future calls. I dropped the wheel off at UPS that evening, but too late for pick-up.

Thursday, "Week 0". PowerTap received my wheel -- I am in MN so it only took ground 1 day.

Friday, "Week 1". I had been waiting patiently, but had not heard anything yet about my wheel shipping, or a call with my final pricing / asking for credit card number... etc... I probably should have had one in their system from the first call, but I figured it wouldn't be a big deal to give it to them once they were done with service. Left a message, which was returned within 5 minutes. Stated they were a little backed up, and the wheel would get in Monday or Tuesday.

Friday, "Week 2". Another week had gone by without any word on status, or request for payment. This time I left a message around 11 AM, but only had the call returned at nearly 5 pm that the wheel was done and they had a mis-communication internally that no one had called to get payment to ship the wheel back. I missed this call because I was out for a run, unfortunately it was so late in the day by the time I got the message I could not return the call to supply payment.

Monday, "Week 3", 8am. I called and provided a credit card number to charge my order to, everything seemed like a "go".

Tuesday, "Week 3", mid-day. I assumed I may receive the wheel that day, but decided to send a "contact us" e-mail via their web page asking for a tracking number and/or shipping status. I guess my last few weeks of inattentiveness caused me to question when they'd really get it sent out and I was getting tired of the wheel being away.

Thursday, "Week 3". I still have not heard anything from PowerTap via my e-mail, but when I arrived home I had a door tag from FedEx -- Signature in person required. If I had the tracking number earlier I could have had the package held somewhere for pick-up, but I did not. I now called FedEx to arrange it to be held today. With the door tag number I was able to see the package was shipped from Madison on Wednesday. Why did it take 2 days to ship if it was "done" and paid for 8 am Monday?

--Edited to fix, I had the last 2 notes down as another week had gone by, it was the same week still (3). Sorry--

So in summary:
-Responsiveness is highly lacking, my lesson learned is to poke them much more often than I did.

-I can't say if I had called more often I would have had better service, but (assuming I get the wheel today) I will have been without it for 3/4 of a month. That's really crazy.

The technology has been generally solid for me in my use, but I have been on the fence about switching to Quarq or Stages in the last few years. If / when my wife's PT needs service, I will strongly consider switching to another type of meter and brand -- this experience damaged my opinion of the company.
Last edited by: nord0296: Feb 20, 15 11:13
Quote Reply

Prev Next