Has anybody out there had any success in replacing the cones on the older wired PTs?

I've got an older model that still shows a calibration of ~510, but is in need of a new cone. (Older = model with flat cover that attaches with two screws). I bought it off of ST classifieds, with the full knowledge that the bearings were a little rough. I was able to use it for a few rides before re-packing the hub - fantastic improvement, but the cone is a bit pitted.

I've called CycleOps, and they no longer manufacture the cone or have any in stock - has anybody used cones from other vendors on this hub? I'd like to get it cleaned up as much as possible.

Thanks!
Sam

Take the cone to a bike shop that has a good selection and find one that's close. You might need to have one ground down to the correct thickness, but you should be able to find one that has the right "curvature" on the cone surface.

The hot tip a few years back was to replace the cone with a Shimano DA one and the DA hub's Ti freehub (required a slight redishing)...I did that and my old yellow cap PT just keeps going and going.

On 3/17/07, Ben <lande...@yahoo.com[/url]> wrote:
>
> Can the bearings in a Powertap Pro hub be repacked??
>
> I had some play in my hub (~3,500 miles). Tightened the play and of
> course the bearings are very gritty. Took the wheel to a local shop
> and they suggested I send the whole thing back to powertap (what?!?).
>
> Can someone tell me - can you repack the bearings in a powertap pro
> hub?
You can on the drive side. The question is whether the cone is pitted
or not. The non-drive side is a cartridge and cannot be repacked.
If the archive searches are working, there's lots of information on
this in the archives. You can order cones from Saris, or you can use
an 8sp 105SC. It's also possible to rebuild using 9sp dura-ace
cones/bearings, and even the Ti freehub body.

Tom -
If someone wanted to do the same, what year / model # would they request or have ordered from the bike shop? There are a few different versions of DA available over the past few years, and I want to make sure I get the right one. I've done all my own wrenching, so the labor should not be an issue.

Went for a ride today and the PowerTap seemed to calibrate normally with a value of 506. However the power was only 3-5W for the ride. I stopped for a while halfway into the ride and when I started out again the calibration was now > 25000 but seemed to be reading power in the right ballpark. I stopped a few times and tried recalibrating and the result was always over 25000.

Does this sound like a Ptap issue or a Garmin problem. I'm using a Garmin 800 and PowerTap G3 which is less than 1 month old. I put new batteries in when I received it.

The cadence during the ride seemed normal with no apparent dropouts so I am assuming the batteries are OK.

Any ideas?

I was wondering if anyone on here was having issues with the latest garmin 500 firmware, and powertap pro/g3 ? Are there any issues here known to Cycleops ?

I had a replacement torque tube for my sl+ hub in August, and then that one went bad (initially reading low by about 10%, and then went crazy and calibration went off scale)

Then I had a loan wheel for a couple of weeks and that also seemed to read low by 10%. (have I lost fitness!!??)

But then I got the my wheel back with a replacement torque tube. Now the numbers seem right (I haven't lost fitness :))

Good numbers for a couple of weeks...

Then I get a calibration of 450, and the power numbers are nuts. Stop after 10 mins and recalibrate ... now 530-550.. but numbers seem ok. Then it got higher and higher on subsequent rides, so returned this one and I'm now on another loan wheel with a cycleops joule gps on loan and this seems ok.

So paligap are thinking that the latest firmware for garmin 500 is pushing the calibration out because its strange to get so many problems. its just a theory for the moment

So I'm wonder if anyone else has experienced this and are there any known issues or anything under investigation?

Long time PT user but after some time away I was fortunate to purchase a very nice barely used Cyclops 65mm carbon clincher G3 wheelset. Out of the box paired nicely to my Garmin 500 with 3.0 software (reading the features of the 3.2 and 3.3 I am tempted to upgrade but not until others have reported better success). When I did the calibration I came back with very low numbers below 500 but it was very cold in my garage. Went for a short ride when it warmed up and the numbers came up 449 YET THE WATTAGE NUMBERS WERE SIMILAR to what I am accustomed to. I called Saris and was disappointed to find out that their response was that I could send everything in and they would fix everything for $350 and I would get a year warranty. My question is whether it is possible to have accuracy from the PT despite the Edge 500 insisting the calibration is off. I ask because the hub SW is 32 and HW is version 2. In the alternative what about slightly pushing on the pedal while it is calibrating to generate a higher torque value, lock that in, and disable auto-zero? Tomorrow I will have my wheels compared to a calibrated quarq and then I will also perform the stomp test unless someone else has some information along the same lines.

Regards.

As promised... rode with another individual who owns a calibrated Quarq. On two different occasions during our ride he threw in my G3 wheel and rode with it while I watched my Edge and told him the values that I was seeing so that he could compare with his Edge that was paired with his Quarq. Two different segments and on the first for 3.5 miles my PT was 178 compared to his Quarq reading of 182. On the second comparison of 4.1 miles that difference was down to 2 watts difference (http://www.strava.com/...104920947#2269570874) which is expected given the PT being hub-based as opposed to crank based. I suspect that the Garmins may have some difficulty picking up the correct hub value for whatever reason (recall that mine is 3.0 and has not been upgraded to 3.2 or 3.3). No need to do a stomp test on this one as far as I'm concerned.

Regards.

All PowerTap hubs auto-zero after a brief period of coasting.

Went for a ride today and the PowerTap seemed to calibrate normally with a value of 506. However the power was only 3-5W for the ride. I stopped for a while halfway into the ride and when I started out again the calibration was now > 25000 but seemed to be reading power in the right ballpark. I stopped a few times and tried recalibrating and the result was always over 25000.

Does this sound like a Ptap issue or a Garmin problem. I'm using a Garmin 800 and PowerTap G3 which is less than 1 month old. I put new batteries in when I received it.

The cadence during the ride seemed normal with no apparent dropouts so I am assuming the batteries are OK.

Any ideas?

Hi Jesse,

I have an alloy wheelset from Powertap, circa 2011. The Pro hub I believe with velocity A23 rim. I've had good luck with it so far and have roughly 9k miles on it, just a few battery changes. Cal almost always between 498 and 503.

Today it seemed to go dead 50 minutes into an hour workout... Basically disappeared from my garmin and TrainerRoad and couldn't be repaired or found again. I decided to replace the batteries (they were 250 hrs old) but that didn't seem to help.

After fiddling with it some more I noticed the battery holder seemed to wiggle around a little. I added a small piece of tape next to it to tighten up the wiggle... And it seems to work again.

My question for you -- should I feel good that this will fix my dropout? (Is this a known issue at all). Or did I just get lucky with my fiddling and it may drop out when I least expect it again?

Thanks for your attention, it really is much appreciated.

Jesse-

Should there be any concern for a brand new G3 hub that came in and "calibrates" (i.e. zero offset on a garmin) shows in the mid-490's (493-497)? My understanding was the range should be between 500-515.

New G3 (0km) Last Firmware..!

Offset in Garmin 535 , offset in Joule's 501 but 30sec after 535.....

Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_MFC-AnnuV4


Why?


Thanks.

the time has come, I'm leaving my powertap. I ordered another system today
Jesse and co, you guys have been great, thanks for all your help, but the best people for the job are just a bit too far away when I need them most.
thanks for all your efforts over the last couple of years, it's been fun and I've learned a lot in the process.


ps, if you're ever interested in setting up a service centre in lil' ol' NZ, I'm listening.