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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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It's a Cervo, but probably same difference. Bummer. I took a mental snapshot of my stats about 5 miles out from the end of the bike, it'll do. :)

Thanks though! I appreciate your reply. I figured it was gone but sometimes you can be sneaky and recover the data. No worries.

The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [JimMoss] [ In reply to ]
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First off congratulations on completing a true epic, nicely done.

Secondly, thank you very much for the feedback. While we certainly test all aspects of our specifications we all know an actual ride is a different story. Regarding battery life, I'm as disappointed as you are in only getting 10 hours. Couple follow up questions- how often (if at all) did you use the bread-crumb map screen? The refreshing of this screen is processor heavy and tends to consume more battery. Secondly, for comparison's sake, can you tell me if your friends using the Garmin had a sensors paired and second by second recording?? Did you have any other sensors paired besides a power meter? For what it's worth, the unit should provide 3 hours of function after first displaying the low battery message.

The TSS limit being 500 is a bug or more aptly an absent minded assumption, thanks for pointing that out. We'll add that to our list for the next release.


JimMoss wrote:
Took Joule GPS (and the Rider) to the limit on Saturday and did 201 Miles in the LOTOJA (Logan Utah > Jackson Wyoming) Classic. Several observations...during the 10:08 total time ride.

1. Battery Life - Biggest fear was Joule GPS crapping out on me during this event and it got real close. I stripped it down and shut off the backlight, eliminated other sensors, and made sure no other battery draining features were running. I didn't use the Interval feature and changed metrics maybe once or twice in the race. My point is, I gave it every opportunity to maximize the battery life. Before the 100 mile mark the Battery icon was already showing just one bar left. At 170 miles the icon was empty and started to flash indicating the end was near. Somehow Joule GPS (and the Rider) hung on to the end and made it. But I highly doubt there was much time left. By way of comparison, my teammates who were running Garmin 500 had 50% battery life left after 10 hours of riding. How can Joule GPS be so far off of where a Garmin 500 is with what is most likely the same Lithium battery?

2. TSS Max - TSS hit 500.0 @ about 160 miles and didn't go any higher. Seriously? TSS is limited to 500.0? That's absurd.

I realize that Joule GPS (and other devices) aren't made with the idea that the average rider will do double centuries. But it would be nice if the battery life worked as claimed so when these opportunities come up we can do the event and not wonder if the thing will work. I can only imagine if I used any of the backlight...maybe would make it 4-5 hours? My guess is that my Joule 2.0 probably would have lasted longer. Joule GPS made it but I have to say I'm sorta disappointed in it.

Jesse Bartholomew

Last edited by: powertap: Sep 9, 13 19:48
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Is there any way to update the firmware on my Powertap G3 without PowerAgent software?


I don't have access to a computer that can run it. I have a Windows 7 computer without admin rights, so I can't install the software there. I also have a computer running Ubuntu linux (12.04), but of course the software won't install there either.


I bought it new in March, and have less than 120 hours on it and I got the low battery warning on a century ride this weekend. That seems significantly shorter than the expected 200 hours. It seemed like a good idea to upgrade the firmware with the new battery.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [dalesd] [ In reply to ]
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Can I swap out the freehub easily on the new G3 Powertaps?

I have a Campy equipped road bike and a SRAM equipped TT bike, and I would like to buy a powermeter to use for both of them. Since I don't want to be a beta tester for Garmin, I am hoping to get a Powertap with an extra freehub and swap them out as needed. I've done freehub swaps on HED wheels before, so I know its not a fast process. Since I swap out my rides on a monthly basis, its not a big deal.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Jesse,

Had a question about the 2.4+ model. Should that hub send both ANT+ and Saris 2.4 signals? I have a 2.4 computer that doesn't seem to pair with the hub. It works perfectly fine over ANT+. I've tried to have the computer 'learn' the hub again and looked through the manuals online. Am I missing something here?

Thanks.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Jctriguy] [ In reply to ]
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Good question. I would like to know the same thing... I have a similar problem, although its a little worse.


I recently upgrade my wireless powertap 2.4 hub with the wireless ant+ updater. Everything seemed to go fine. plugged it in, turned it one. lights flashed for a bit and then the green light flashed indicating success. just like the instructions said. turned it off, but the battery pack back in (with new batteries). but now neither my LYC nor my garmin 500 will pair with the hub. :(

any suggestions??
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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My G3 (part of 1 yr old Cyclops wheelset) three days ago suddenly stopped calibrating with my Garmin 500 after nearly a full season of operating flawlessly. The Garmin when turned on "sees" the power meter and asks if I want to calibrate, I hit yes and it goes on forever without finishing. If I wait a few minutes I can hit the back button, the Garmin at that point no longer "sees" the G3 so I can hit search so that if finds it and then it will calibrate successfully (value of 514.) Only thing I can think of is that I rode a short stretch of very rough (almost cobblestone like) road recently.

I've updated the firmware and replaced the G3 battery (old one was only 2 months old), with no change. Garmin is fully charged and will successfully calibrate with the Quarq Cinco on my TT bike. Any suggestions on a solution?


WyoJoe

If you think you can do a thing or think you can't do a thing, you're right - Henry Ford
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Last edited by: GREG_n_SD: Sep 14, 13 5:39
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Jesse-

I recently purchased the Joule GPS after being a long time LYC computer. The LYC had to go as I purchased a G3 wheel. Maybe I'm a simple person, but the resolution on the LYC is better than the Joule GPS in bright morning/evening time periods and if you can't see what you need to see, all the fancy bells and whistles don't mean as much.

Questions- I've read the manual and think I am fairly comfortable with many of the basic settings/setup.

1) That being said, on my very first morning sunny ride today with the computer- the glare on the computer in the earlier AM hours- 8-10AM- was difficult to see the screen. I've never had this issue with the LYC or prior cateye type computers. I also have the contrast on a lower setting, as high contrast seems to make it harder to see. Any suggestions?

2) The clock is really, tiny. I want to have it as one of my options on my dashboard- so I can actually see it. Can I do this- if not, you really should allow this as an option in a firmware upgrade. As- the question above with the screen hard to see at different times- makes seeing the tiny font all but impossible, especially in motion. Plus, it's so tiny that I would have to be stopped at a red light and put my nose close to the screen to actually read the time, during certain times of day. The LYC never an issue as you could just swap ride time to time of day and the font size was easy to see. I have perfect 20/20 vision....

3) I'm thinking about getting the Joule computer if the resolution is better than the Joule GPS. Is it more comparable to the LYC resolution? Is the Joule resolution better/worse/same as compared to Joule GPS?

Thanks-
Mark

P.S. G3 hub is very nice- stiffer wheel and bearings seem nicer.
Last edited by: mcycle: Sep 19, 13 5:56
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [mcycle] [ In reply to ]
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I have a question about the connection between the Garmin Edge 705 and a Powertap wheel. I had my first dide yesterday and if seems that the Edge now calculates the speed and distance from the wheel size instead of the GPS signal. Is that correct and can I activate the GPS measuring somewhere?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [hunki] [ In reply to ]
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GPS is the default-last-choice on speed sensing, so you have to convince it that there are no other values. The Powertap sends a cadence signal, but not a very accurate one. I assume you are not using the speed/cadence sensor that came with the 705 - if you are, that is the most accurate way. If you don't have that installed, you need to turn off the "cadence/speed sensor" in the Ant+ menu.

Settings
Ant+Sport
Accessories
Cadence Sensor Present ... set to No

Also go to the bike profile and set the wheel size to custom and enter it (2096 for a 700c wheel with 23mm tire)- the auto function doesn't work well and can screw up the speed readings.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [valygrl] [ In reply to ]
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I use no speed and cadence sensors. Just the Powertap wheel. It seems that I have to set the wheel size in the bike profiles to get a accurate speed again. Is there no way to only use the GPS for speed?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [ In reply to ]
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Figured I'd try here first. I recently replaced my batteries in my PowerTap Pro+ wheel and recently replaced the battery.

Reinstalled wheel and low power (10-25 watts). Re-searched for the PT and calibrated, still low power reading. Reinstalled different batteries and re-searched the PT and calibrated, still low power reading.

I don't believe the calibration is off but I am having some issues getting it to calibrate as fast as it used to.

If the issue is the strain gauge, what are my options?

Thanks for your help.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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I have a new PT G3 and Joule GPS. This is my first foray into training with power. I am having trouble staying on or in a certain range of watts. It really jumps around. The more I practice smooth pedaling, I can keep it in somewhat of a range, like within 30-50 watts. I'm convinced the reading are accurate and probably best for post-workout analysis but my #1 goal is to use the power during rides. Is there a setting that can "smooth" out the power or display a 3s or 5s moving average or something?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [vickaiser] [ In reply to ]
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I'm unsure of the features of the Joule or how to set the option to do 3-10 second smoothing or power reading. I even have 30-50 watt differences when watching the 3 second power reading. Go from there and google changing settings for the joule. I'm sure it has it.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [vickaiser] [ In reply to ]
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vickaiser wrote:
I have a new PT G3 and Joule GPS. This is my first foray into training with power. I am having trouble staying on or in a certain range of watts. It really jumps around. The more I practice smooth pedaling, I can keep it in somewhat of a range, like within 30-50 watts. I'm convinced the reading are accurate and probably best for post-workout analysis but my #1 goal is to use the power during rides. Is there a setting that can "smooth" out the power or display a 3s or 5s moving average or something?

Power training is stochiastic, meaning it varies widely on a second to second basis often by hundred(s) of watts. This is normal, and you not worry too much about this. More important is the variance over a full ride (VI) which is NP/AP.

You can smooth your power display on the Joule GPS through poweragent or on the device setup menu: Device->averages->power averaging. I would not use more than 5s.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [kkoole] [ In reply to ]
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kkoole wrote:
vickaiser wrote:
I have a new PT G3 and Joule GPS. This is my first foray into training with power. I am having trouble staying on or in a certain range of watts. It really jumps around. The more I practice smooth pedaling, I can keep it in somewhat of a range, like within 30-50 watts. I'm convinced the reading are accurate and probably best for post-workout analysis but my #1 goal is to use the power during rides. Is there a setting that can "smooth" out the power or display a 3s or 5s moving average or something?


Power training is stochiastic, meaning it varies widely on a second to second basis often by hundred(s) of watts. This is normal, and you not worry too much about this. More important is the variance over a full ride (VI) which is NP/AP.

You can smooth your power display on the Joule GPS through poweragent or on the device setup menu: Device->averages->power averaging. I would not use more than 5s.

If I set the power averaging to 3 or 5 seconds, will the device still continue to record every second or whatever it records for post-ride analysis?
Last edited by: vickaiser: Sep 18, 13 7:40
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Looking to by my first wheel with PowerTap, what should I know? I have used HR so far. Hope the PM will help me even out my effort over the IM bike.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [vickaiser] [ In reply to ]
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vickaiser wrote:
If I set the power averaging to 3 or 5 seconds, will the device still continue to record every second or whatever it records for post-ride analysis?

yes
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [CJAC] [ In reply to ]
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Lots of questions to ask yourself. What type of wheel do you need? Training/Racing? Dish? Etc. Used/New? Try answering those firsts before a recommendation can be made. Power training will help greatly if you use it effectively.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [CJAC] [ In reply to ]
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CJAC wrote:
Looking to by my first wheel with PowerTap, what should I know? I have used HR so far. Hope the PM will help me even out my effort over the IM bike.

If you're new at this keep it simple. You need a nice solid wheel with a powertap and a compatible Joule computer (or Garmin). Powertap is the cheapest power training device, and the simplest to start with since it is built into a wheel. Don't worry too much about race wheels, etc.- when you have a PT you will want to ride it all the time. Just get a nice quality wheel (or wheelset) and cover it with a disc if you want for races.

Buy Skibas' book "A triathletes guide to training with power" and do all of the stuff it says.

if you live in a cold climate consider trainerroad.com for your trainer workouts. It will work with your powertap to put you through some great workouts. It's basiaclly the same thing as a computrainer.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [kkoole] [ In reply to ]
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Have a friend that is selling me a Hed Jet 90, it is used, but will be fine for me. Currently racing on a chinese carbon wheel. I will add a cover for racing if it makes a difference. For head unit I will use my Garmin.
I will check out the book. Any other tips?

kkoole wrote:
CJAC wrote:
Looking to by my first wheel with PowerTap, what should I know? I have used HR so far. Hope the PM will help me even out my effort over the IM bike.


If you're new at this keep it simple. You need a nice solid wheel with a powertap and a compatible Joule computer (or Garmin). Powertap is the cheapest power training device, and the simplest to start with since it is built into a wheel. Don't worry too much about race wheels, etc.- when you have a PT you will want to ride it all the time. Just get a nice quality wheel (or wheelset) and cover it with a disc if you want for races.

Buy Skibas' book "A triathletes guide to training with power" and do all of the stuff it says.

if you live in a cold climate consider trainerroad.com for your trainer workouts. It will work with your powertap to put you through some great workouts. It's basiaclly the same thing as a computrainer.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [CJAC] [ In reply to ]
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I am really sorry if this has been covered. I have looked and can't find it.

I have a 2.4 hub worked great. I actually never had a problem with it. Ever. Then I did something I regret terrifically. I did the SL+ firmware update in hopes of only using my Garmin 800. Now nothing sees the hub. Nothing.

Is there any way to undo the firmware update? Is there something that I am missing?

Thanks to anyone that will help. I am an idiot.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [p4lm3r] [ In reply to ]
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p4lm3r wrote:
I am really sorry if this has been covered. I have looked and can't find it.

I have a 2.4 hub worked great. I actually never had a problem with it. Ever. Then I did something I regret terrifically. I did the SL+ firmware update in hopes of only using my Garmin 800. Now nothing sees the hub. Nothing.

Is there any way to undo the firmware update? Is there something that I am missing?

Thanks to anyone that will help. I am an idiot.

Same thing happened to me back in late July. (except I updated to stop replacing the battery every 40-50 hours) I called in and they had me try multiple USB ports and a different cable. None of which worked. Basically, there's a very, very specific way to go about the update. If not followed correctly you end up wiping it all off. PT explained that's what I had done and had me a comp hub in the mail that day. Arrived 2 days later. With updated firmware.....that doesnt eat batteries!

cc
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [ChiroCowboy] [ In reply to ]
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Chiro, do you mind sharing with me the person you contacted? I contacted them via their website form and haven't heard anything yet. I know I followed the directions to a 't', and got the green light that the firmware update was successful, but maybe it still failed.

Thanks for the quick response!


ChiroCowboy wrote:
p4lm3r wrote:
I am really sorry if this has been covered. I have looked and can't find it.

I have a 2.4 hub worked great. I actually never had a problem with it. Ever. Then I did something I regret terrifically. I did the SL+ firmware update in hopes of only using my Garmin 800. Now nothing sees the hub. Nothing.

Is there any way to undo the firmware update? Is there something that I am missing?

Thanks to anyone that will help. I am an idiot.


Same thing happened to me back in late July. (except I updated to stop replacing the battery every 40-50 hours) I called in and they had me try multiple USB ports and a different cable. None of which worked. Basically, there's a very, very specific way to go about the update. If not followed correctly you end up wiping it all off. PT explained that's what I had done and had me a comp hub in the mail that day. Arrived 2 days later. With updated firmware.....that doesnt eat batteries!

cc
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