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Re: massive power spikes [Ken Smith] [ In reply to ]
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Did the unit recover in subsequent rides? Have you had the issue since?

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [eazyc10] [ In reply to ]
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Did the unit recover in subsequent rides? Have you had the issue since?


eazyc10 wrote:
Just purchased a brand new G3 rear wheel. 1st time I rode with it I had no problems. The second time I rode with it, it stopped collecting data about halfway through the ride. I've tried changing the battery and plugging it in to try and upgrade the firmware through the poweragent.

I've sent an email into Cycleops but wanted to see if there's anything else to try. Are there indicator lights on the unit to see if it's getting power?

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the update. I updated it this morning and all seems to be working well.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks Jesse I called a couple weeks ago and got an RA number it should be there on Monday.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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No it did not. I ended up working with Kip to get a replacement. The replacement worked for the first ride.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Jesse,

Thanks for maintaining a presence on this thread and aiding with troubleshooting issues. Yourself and Sam have been extremely helpful thus far.

I have another quick question. I have a wired PT and I did a static calibration check aka Stomp Test. The numbers look ok and are actually almost identical to 3 other Powertaps I checked in the last few months (2.4+, Elite+, & Pro+). The only difference is the zero offset. Whereas with the other wheels it was within the range of 507 and 518, the Wired PT was 417! The Stomp Test checks out, and riding around the numbers look ok on my regular routes, but that offset makes no sense. Is the torque tube shot? What should I do?




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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Hello all,

Just looking for some reassurance about my powertap G3 hub accuracy / functionality.

I always seem to get slightly lower numbers for calibration than most people - usually between 495 and 501. Also, when I do manual calibration the figure seems to be a little inconsistent, e.g. sometimes I can get, e.g., 496 and then calibrate it again and get 497, and then maybe 498 or 499 and then back to 496, all within the space of a minute or two with the bike standing still. Admittedly, usually the variation is only one unit but it can be up to three. It seems to be sensitive to moving the cranks or standing on the pedals.

I have the auto-calibration switched on. Just as a matter of interest, how long do you need to coast for before the auto-callibration kicks in?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [neeb] [ In reply to ]
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Looks like im planning on picking up a used g3 wheel set tonight it is the boxed set from powertap and I was curious if they make an aero jacket that fits this wheel?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Exige] [ In reply to ]
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Yes. Are you talking about the Reynolds 46 G3 wheelset? I have this set and ordered a cover from Wheelbuilder. It fits great. Just specify the depth, spoke count, and the G3 hub in the order form and you'll be set.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [CycleLogical] [ In reply to ]
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Awesome thanks it is the base set from the website I am not exactly sure if its the reynolds or not I will find out tonight its from 2012 if that makes a difference.
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Post deleted by cyclingsessions [ In reply to ]
Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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So I have a 2012 Powertap Pro (black hub) stock wheelset from Saris that has the Velocity A23 rims. The front wheel has been fine, but the back one has given me nothing but trouble. It would consistently come out of true and the dish would get all wonky. I had it trued by a shop 4 or 5 times within about 1k total miles. The shop said there's probably something funky with the rim/spokes and it's beyond repair, so they ordered a new A23 rim, put in new straight 15 gauge spokes and brass nipples and built it by hand with threadlocker. Now about another 1k miles later, it's come out of true again and the dish is screwed up. I've since moved to another state (YES, GOT OUT OF CALIFORNIA!!!!!) and the shop here said they've had quite a few issues with Powertaps being rather hard on wheels and needing to be trued/redished because of the flange size.

I believe 2012 was the first year Saris began using the A23 rims in their stock builds, can you offer any insight into what the deal is? Powertaps are everywhere, and I hadn't heard of recurring issues like this before, but since the A23 rim is rather new, I'm wondering if that's the issue.

Thanks
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Jesse - Are there things in Joule 2.0 (besides backlight settings) that would impact battery life? I'm doing a double century and I'm concerned about getting a full 10-11 hours out of the Joule 2.0. Field tests have shown that the battery life doesn't last the 20 hours as documented in the owner's manual.

Thoughts?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Bought a used g3 and wanted to check and make sure its up to date but it did not come with a cable. Will any micro usb to usb cable work such as a phone cable etc?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [neeb] [ In reply to ]
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neeb wrote:
I always seem to get slightly lower numbers for calibration than most people - usually between 495 and 501. Also, when I do manual calibration the figure seems to be a little inconsistent, e.g. sometimes I can get, e.g., 496 and then calibrate it again and get 497, and then maybe 498 or 499 and then back to 496, all within the space of a minute or two with the bike standing still.
My G3 also usually reports lower offset numbers: 496, 497, 498, 499. I'm hoping to get an insight on this too.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Exige] [ In reply to ]
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Exige wrote:
Bought a used g3 and wanted to check and make sure its up to date but it did not come with a cable. Will any micro usb to usb cable work such as a phone cable etc?

Yes. I'm awful about losing cables that come with my devices. Luckily I have a Joule, smart phone, DSLR, and other things that use micro usb.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Azr43l] [ In reply to ]
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In general we have not had issues with any of our wheels apart from the normal wear and tear. If your wheel was rebuilt on a new rim with threadlock etc. you should not be having issues.

Anything abnormal in terms of type of riding? We'd be happy to have a look at the wheel if you send it in to Madison.


Azr43l wrote:
So I have a 2012 Powertap Pro (black hub) stock wheelset from Saris that has the Velocity A23 rims. The front wheel has been fine, but the back one has given me nothing but trouble. It would consistently come out of true and the dish would get all wonky. I had it trued by a shop 4 or 5 times within about 1k total miles. The shop said there's probably something funky with the rim/spokes and it's beyond repair, so they ordered a new A23 rim, put in new straight 15 gauge spokes and brass nipples and built it by hand with threadlocker. Now about another 1k miles later, it's come out of true again and the dish is screwed up. I've since moved to another state (YES, GOT OUT OF CALIFORNIA!!!!!) and the shop here said they've had quite a few issues with Powertaps being rather hard on wheels and needing to be trued/redished because of the flange size.

I believe 2012 was the first year Saris began using the A23 rims in their stock builds, can you offer any insight into what the deal is? Powertaps are everywhere, and I hadn't heard of recurring issues like this before, but since the A23 rim is rather new, I'm wondering if that's the issue.

Thanks

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Jamaican] [ In reply to ]
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This is one of the strengths of the PowerTap architecture. Don't forget that the offset is the system's way of ensuring accuracy no matter what else is changing in the hub (mechanically or otherwise). The fact that there is a large offset means something significant has changed, while the system is smart enough to adjust it cannot determine why it needed to adjust. Most of our customers aren't going to do a stomp test nor would we expect them to so in these cases we typically request the unit be returned for service. In your particular case, I'd say things are ok to carry on but if you see any weird values it might be time to return it for service.


Jamaican wrote:
Jesse,

Thanks for maintaining a presence on this thread and aiding with troubleshooting issues. Yourself and Sam have been extremely helpful thus far.

I have another quick question. I have a wired PT and I did a static calibration check aka Stomp Test. The numbers look ok and are actually almost identical to 3 other Powertaps I checked in the last few months (2.4+, Elite+, & Pro+). The only difference is the zero offset. Whereas with the other wheels it was within the range of 507 and 518, the Wired PT was 417! The Stomp Test checks out, and riding around the numbers look ok on my regular routes, but that offset makes no sense. Is the torque tube shot? What should I do?


Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [JimMoss] [ In reply to ]
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If you're really concerned and the battery is a bit old I'd recomend getting a new one.https://power-tap.myshopify.com/...tery-replacement-kit

Beyond that, back-light is by far the biggest drain.

Also delete all non-active sensors. There is a periodic check for sensors that causes a small increase in power draw. Make sure you have the latest firmware.

You could also *wanring advertisement, read no further if not interested* just pick up a Joule for $99 (https://power-tap.myshopify.com/...uters/products/joule)


JimMoss wrote:
Jesse - Are there things in Joule 2.0 (besides backlight settings) that would impact battery life? I'm doing a double century and I'm concerned about getting a full 10-11 hours out of the Joule 2.0. Field tests have shown that the battery life doesn't last the 20 hours as documented in the owner's manual.

Thoughts?

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Exige] [ In reply to ]
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Yes any micro USB cable should work but be aware there are a few cables that are for "charging only" that will not work with any device for anything but charging. A cable included with a phone will work.


Exige wrote:
Bought a used g3 and wanted to check and make sure its up to date but it did not come with a cable. Will any micro usb to usb cable work such as a phone cable etc?

Jesse Bartholomew

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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Nothing out of the ordinary, just regular pavement, the worst would be some rough chip seal. I'm only 165lbs, so weight wouldn't be an issue. I'm outside the 1 yr warranty, so I'm pretty much out, but I appreciate the offer. I think I'll have it built with a quality rim like the HED Belgium and see what happens.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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I'm bumping this to share a message of outstanding Saris/Cycleops/Powertap service.
No need to get into details about circumstances, bottom line was a level and speed of service I have yet to experience with any other bike related company.
Could not be happier with my PT hub.

_______________________________________________________
"...Rocketbrother for being fast responses, shipping fast, delivering high quality packaging and products. A pleasure..."
"...rocketbrother is an extremely reliable seller and very knowledgable".
"Bottom line, if he posts something, buy it! A+ seller by a long way..."
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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I made the tragically dumb mistake of highlighting a field in Poweragent to download, but not actually clicking the check mark--and then on autopilot, hit yes to clear data.

I know this is "officially" un-undoable...but is there a path to recovering the data? Even if it requires some shenanigans, I'm sure the data is still there, just the table got wiped. Any ideas?

The question of who is right and who is wrong has seemed to me always too small to be worth a moment's thought, while the question of what is right and what is wrong has seemed all-important.

-Albert J. Nock
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [powertap] [ In reply to ]
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Took Joule GPS (and the Rider) to the limit on Saturday and did 201 Miles in the LOTOJA (Logan Utah > Jackson Wyoming) Classic. Several observations...during the 10:08 total time ride.

1. Battery Life - Biggest fear was Joule GPS crapping out on me during this event and it got real close. I stripped it down and shut off the backlight, eliminated other sensors, and made sure no other battery draining features were running. I didn't use the Interval feature and changed metrics maybe once or twice in the race. My point is, I gave it every opportunity to maximize the battery life. Before the 100 mile mark the Battery icon was already showing just one bar left. At 170 miles the icon was empty and started to flash indicating the end was near. Somehow Joule GPS (and the Rider) hung on to the end and made it. But I highly doubt there was much time left. By way of comparison, my teammates who were running Garmin 500 had 50% battery life left after 10 hours of riding. How can Joule GPS be so far off of where a Garmin 500 is with what is most likely the same Lithium battery?

2. TSS Max - TSS hit 500.0 @ about 160 miles and didn't go any higher. Seriously? TSS is limited to 500.0? That's absurd.

I realize that Joule GPS (and other devices) aren't made with the idea that the average rider will do double centuries. But it would be nice if the battery life worked as claimed so when these opportunities come up we can do the event and not wonder if the thing will work. I can only imagine if I used any of the backlight...maybe would make it 4-5 hours? My guess is that my Joule 2.0 probably would have lasted longer. Joule GPS made it but I have to say I'm sorta disappointed in it.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Derf] [ In reply to ]
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Sorry, the ride data takes up so much space (memory) that the clear truly is a clear. The second by second data will be gone but if it's of any help the Joule units have a pretty robust History feature that will give you a good amount of data on the device, peak powers, TSS, NP etc.


Derf wrote:
I made the tragically dumb mistake of highlighting a field in Poweragent to download, but not actually clicking the check mark--and then on autopilot, hit yes to clear data.

I know this is "officially" un-undoable...but is there a path to recovering the data? Even if it requires some shenanigans, I'm sure the data is still there, just the table got wiped. Any ideas?

Jesse Bartholomew

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