Am I looking at the right posting that’s $1,234 for the wheels?

1. These are 26” wheels. Is your bike 26” or 700c? Should be listed on your current tires. The vast majority of bikes are 700c.

2. The disc wheel is for tubular tires; the others may be as well. Don’t get tubular wheels!

3. The rear wheels probably have hubs that will not fit more than a 10speed cassette. If you have a recent bine it probably has 11 or 12 speeds, and is not compatible.

These are wheels from the 90s or ‘aughts. Only consider them if you are very knowledgeable and know exactly what you are getting, both performance-wise and with regards to compatibility with your bike.

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Not to mention the price is probably just a placeholder. People use 1234 whenever they don't know what to list.

There might be $200 worth of wheels there.

Plus, you need to know what size wheels your bike fits. And know how to glue tubs if you're going that route.

That's a pass. Don't buy that unless you absolutely know what you're doing.

If you have wheels already, want to "upgrade" but don't know what new wheels you want, don't buy new wheels.
If you don't have any roadworthy wheels and just need something to allow you ride your bike, start with some reasonably inexpensive alloys, or a set of 30mm deep alloy rims with at least 19mm inner rim width if you want to ensure they'll come in handy in the long run.

Used and very fast rim-brake wheels are a great buy right now (with many folks--kind of crazily--going to disc brake wheels in tri) ...

However, I would agree with previous posters. DO NOT buy used wheels unless: (1) you know EXACTLY what you need and you know EXACTLY how to evaluate the condition and authenticity of what you are getting, and (2) you know VERY CLOSELY what the used market value is of any wheels that you're considering, or (3) you have someone with a HIGH LEVEL of such expertise helping you, and (4) you and your helper are able to inspect the wheels very carefully in person BEFORE you part with any cash.

Finally, for triathlon, don't get tubular tire wheels.

That will be 5 cents, please ... ;^)

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I was thinking those had to be 650c wheels, not 26 inch wheels. But the picture of the tire does seem to say 26. I wasn't aware of racing wheels being made in 26 inch sizes; I thought those were usually for touring bikes.

To the OP, as others have said it is unlikely these wheels would be the right size for your bike unless it is older or in a very small size. For a while, smaller wheels were fairly common for triathlon bikes. Now they are pretty rare. A few manufacturers still make their smallest bike frames to fit smaller wheels, but 700c (a slightly larger size) is now pretty standard.

I have a lot of 650C bikes and even I wouldn't be interested in those wheels.

Last year I came across a set of 2013 Zipp firecrest 404 clinchers for $500 on Facebook, which I consider to be an excellent deal. I'd either wait until you find a solid deal or stick to brands that are notorious for good value -- HED and Reynolds to name a few. I think the Reynolds warranty might extend beyond the original owner if I'm not mistaken.

And yes, the stuff above is super important. Tubulars are outdated and a genuine pain to live with. Getting the correct size (diameter) is the most important. I think it would be hard to find a set of carbon clinchers that had an axle spacing you couldn't use. I'm not sure how many speeds your drivetrain is, but there are many ways to run an 11 speed system on a 10spd hub. I used to use cassettes from a Canadian machine shop called Lasco Concept. The bonus is that 10spd wheels are not much cheaper due to most people running 11spd now. I'm a (relatively broke) college student and I know many other students who run 11spd on 10spd hub and just use 10 of the 11spd sprockets. Works just fine :)

Reynolds only offers a warranty to the original owner.