I took this from the Slowtwitch Bike Picker. In your price range, you could get pretty much anything, and Dan makes some suggestions at the end of the article.
LONGLEG CRAIG -- PREVALENT FEATURE: Long legs, short torso. ALSO: Just want a bike that'll give me a good fit and good power.
Unfortunately for you, a person with your body type is the hardest person to fit on a tri bike, and the reasons are legion. First off, by definition you're going to need a shorter bike from the saddle forward than is usual, and you'll need a taller bike from the bottom up. So, while LONGBODY RODDY needs a bike that is a size 59cm from east to west and 55cm north to south, you're the opposite.
The only clearance issue LONGBODY RODDY faces is standover height, and this is happily not a problem on tri bikes, because the top tube on tri bikes must be lower to the ground than on a road bike to accommodate the lower-to-the-ground handlebar set up. You have a bigger problem. Your clearance issue relates to cockpit distance. Your long legs and short torso -- especially if your long legs are proportional, not simply long femurs -- means you'll probably like a steep seat angle. But the mere fact that your legs are long means your saddle is going to be further back from the bottom bracket. Your short torso means that the distance from the saddle nose to the aero bar armrests is going to be shorter.
What does this all mean? Simply that, from strictly a seated -- in the aero position -- perspective, your bike needs to be tall, yet fairly short in the front center (bottom bracket to front wheel axle). There is a problem with this, though. You don't ride the whole ride in the aero position. Sometimes you ride out of the saddle. The short cockpit on your bike, coupled with your long legs, means you're certain to bang your knees against the backs of the armrests when you're climbing while standing up. (More on this is written in our front-end makeover articles one and two.)
So, as is explained in the second of our "Makeover" articles, you're certainly going to need to resort to a set-up in which you rest on your aero bar armrests further up your forearm than an evenly proportioned person would.
This sort of brings us full circle, in terms of bike sizing. Under normal circumstances, when you're riding seated and in the aero position, you might need a bike that is short in the top tube by 1cm to 3cm. And if you were building a bike for, say, the Moriarty time trial, or a fixed-gear bike for the pursuit or the "hour" on a velodrome, that'd be what you'd need. But, because of the need to occasionally climb and accelerate out of the saddle, it is not tenable to have your bike built that way. Instead, you'll compensate by affixing a shorter aero bar to your bike.
All this means is, specifically for tri bike selection purposes (we might feel differently if you were buying a road race bike), you'll want to fit yourself on a bike more or less based on your height, or at least your leg length.
One more thing, though. There are two rider positions on a tri bike. The most important is the aero position, but also one must pay attention to the climbing position (with your hands on the base bar -- or braking -- position). There is an adjustment you might want to make to compensate for your disproportionate morphology. Imagine two riders. You are one. Another is a person that is evenly proportioned, but with your leg length. Such a person is, by definition, taller than you. But we're essentially saying that the two of you should ride the same size bike, and the difference in fit is simply that while the taller rider might ride with, say, a size M or L aero bar, you'll ride with perhaps a size S. This alone must compensate for your shorter torso length. (Remember, you can't compensate by overly shortening the stem length, because that will bring your armrests rearward, closer to the saddle, and will cause the unfortunate meeting between kneecap and armrest.) So we've solved the problem, right? Not entirely. We still have a further issue. We've done nothing to compensate for the out-of-the-saddle position, which, if it's perfect for the other, "taller," guy, it's too stretched out for you.
The fix for this is to draw your base bar back toward you slightly, and the only way to do this is to find a base bar that angles slightly back as it leaves the stem. The Syntace Stratos does this in one of its four configurations, the Zero. We like the Zero best anyway.
So then, after that exhausting theoretical tour de bike fit for the morphologically challenged, what we end up with is, your problem is not solved by a special bike, but by special attention to fit on a standard bike. You could do just as well on a KM40, a Yaqui, a QR, a Softride, a Cervelo, or anything else that might be right for a person of your height or taller. But here's what's imperative. You'll need:
a dealer or bike builder who knows what he's doing.
a dealer, or smaller bike builder, who's willing to work with you on shipping/returning things that might not entirely work for you (i.e., somebody not afraid to make exchanges until things are right).
a bike that can be sold to you with a Syntace Stratos Zero, hopefully for only a small up-charge.
a swap, hopefully straight across, for at least one size down aero bar than that which comes with the bike.
if you're really fortunate, a dealer or builder (if you're buying mail order) who'll ship you two or three stems, on the assumption that you'll send those that don't fit back after a few weeks. And, maybe even a choice of two seatposts, a straight and a set-back (see our final comments to SPARK PLUG DOUG).
You, especially, will need all this TLC, because although a comfortable, powerful position is available to everybody, you're going to be the hardest to dial in.