Since IÂ’m recovering from sinus surgery I figured itÂ’d be a good time to write up the build on my new P2. I learned a lot from others whoÂ’ve done similar builds with their P2. Below is the build, routing and some photos. Feel free to ask any questions.
A brief back story. I was on a 2011 Trek SC 9.9 for the last couple of years, which I loved, but wanted to do an actual custom-unique build on a bike. Since the XL SC and the 61 P2 are near identical in reach, but higher in stack, I went with the 61 P2. I paired that with a Profile Design Svet Zero Basebar with the new J5 cups. I went that route because I couldnÂ’t see myself spending $1k for the PD Aeria Ultimate. Plus, the J5 cups gave me the stack I needed with no spacers or risers. End resultÂ… a clean simple 2-piece basebar combo.
I went with the new R8000 Ultegra Di2. Again, couldnÂ’t see myself spending the extra dough for Dura-Ace Di2.
Group Set
FD/RD R8050
TT Bar end Shifter-R671
Basebar brakes/shifters ST-R8060
(which Shimano has gone away with two-button design and now use a single button since they moved to Syncroshift)
Slight disclaimer. I work at a bike shop so I have a full inventory of everything Di2 in stock. Since I was trying to keep this build as clean as possible, I wanted to avoid a 5-port junction block from being out in the open. I thought outside the box and opted for a EW-RS910 junction block, which is used in bar ends for road bars. Junction box hidden.. Check! Now the issue was, how do I get the 4 shifters and the bar end plug port (which is only two-ports) to all work and connect to a 4-plug junction block aka the biscuit? After laying it all out on the counter top, I found that if I took the right two-button shifter and plugged that wire into the junction block, then had the other wire from the junction block running into the biscuit, would make it work. Next issue, I still had 3 other wires from the other shifters plus, the wire that will go from the biscuit to under. Simple solution was, use a Y-splitter (JC-130-SS). So it went like this
-Right brake/wire into biscuit
-Right Two-button shifter from charging port into biscuit
-Left two button Shifter and Left Brake/shifter connected using a y-split into junction. Two wires become one
Now IÂ’m left with one open plug in the biscuit to run my long wire down to the BB. Perfect!
Next idea was where to hide the biscuit but still had access to it and itÂ’s cables? I went with a Cervelo Stem made for Di2 (ST-C026) Shimano also makes a Di2 stem, but I liked the looks of this stem better. Since the Svet Zero bar didnÂ’t have a hole in the back of the bar to allow the wires to poke through. Not a big deal. A simple hole in the back of the bar where the stem is and problem solved.
Note to basebar manufactures. Please start drilling holes in the back of your bars. J
Another modification I wanted to do was delete the brake cable from side entry of the bike and run it through the top tube. Luckily my bike has a huge head tube and had plenty of room for a slight bend. I ended up using a premium brake cable housin since there was going to be a slight bend in the cable and I didnÂ’t want any drag or issues with braking. The Jagwire Road Elite Sealed Brake kit was the choice and man itÂ’s flexible! I ended up running the brake cable below and around the stem because if I were to route it to the right side of the stem, it would hit the junction block. It still resulted in a clean look not visible to the wind.
The rest is pretty much cut and dry with wiring up the front and rear derailleurs and hidden battery in the seat post.
Overall IÂ’ve extremely happy with the turn out and canÂ’t wait to recover from surgery and can ride it. I will be upgrading the brakes and crank to finish off the full Ultegra R8000 build. And still not sure if I plan to run a Tri Rig brake up front.
Thanks for reading!
-Nick
Last edited by:
Tall_Coffee: Nov 26, 17 10:34