Saddle is too high, but moving to 155 cranks will fix that. And when doing fit stuff, put on a race load, and race cadence, unless you spin at 65 normally...(-;

As monty said, your saddle is too high. Drop your saddle and cockpit 1 cm and that should take care of things.

Or, as you pointed out, 155s has the same effect.

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

So if I drop my saddle a cm (changing to 155s is not really an option at this point) and my cockpit a cm, I should be pretty good?

I'm sitting well? Enough reach?

Also if I drop 1cm in my saddle don't I need to move my saddle back a bit to compensate? If so, by how much?

Thanks for the advise on race load and cadence...

One step at a time. Lowering the saddle and cockpit will close your hips a bit.

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

One step at a time. Lowering the saddle and cockpit will close your hips a bit.

Which is why I said get the shorter cranks. Besides making you a bit more aero(probably)you can leave your saddle and cockpit where they are, for now...It is quite possible that your saddle is more than 1cm too high. You have a pretty severe toe point, and with your slow cadence, hard to tell if you are rocking to compensate too...


You got some fancy cranks you are attached to? there are several after market ones the right size, and they are not that expensive.

As a few said 155 cranks I say you may not need to.
What gearing are you using?

Definitely drop your saddle but if anything I would raise your cockpit so essentially dropping your saddle will aid in doing that. For a mediocre cyclist you are riding a more aggressive position than most pros. Your position doesn't look comfortable to me and that is the key to a good position. Unless you feel obstructed in your pedal stroke I wouldn't worry about your crank length for the moment.

1. He's probably not too low.
2. The problem with looking for obstruction in the pedal stroke as a determinate of crank length is that the vast majority of riders won't notice it until they are taken to the limit of their current crank and then have it changed quickly (<2:00), in the controlled environment of a fit studio, with crank length as the only variable. This has been an extremely consistent observation in 1000s of fits. I don't think his crank looks too long here, but dropping the saddle a 10-15mm will definitely change the knee flexion considerably.

I played with crank length 5mm at a time over several years 170-150 and it wasn't until later in an Ironman where I knew what too short really was so I don't agree that quickly changing cranks in a studio is a true determination of what is the best length. Each time I went shorter I loved the immediate sensation but there was a drop off point for me with power v fatigue and below 160 was too short for me at 5'11" struggling to generate power on 155 after 4 hours. I think 165 is a safe length crank for his height.

As for if the OP maybe he isn't too low but I know that I am a better rider not being that low.

 

Any suggestions on an easy to find 155mm crank ?

I think 165 is a safe length crank for his height. //

You height is not a determining factor in crank length, it's leg length. He has short legs for his height, so thus my recommendation. What is your inseam, that would be a better comparison. I'm about the same height as the OP with short legs, long torso too, so familiar with what he is looking at. A guy 5'10" could have anywhere from a 28 or so inseam, to a 34/35 inch one. Huge swings on hip angles there, yet the all are the same height..

Yes I understand that but even with his inseam 165 is certainly not unreasonable and as the OP stated he doesn't want to change cranks.