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Latex tubes - school me
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Should I switch to latex tubes for an upcoming IM- Challenge Almere?

I am running Conti GP5000s on wheelsmith 50mm clinchers. These are alloy rims with a 50mm carbon fairing. I will run a disc cover on the rear.

What tubes would people recommend and what things do I need to consider when installing?

I am aware they require pumping up more frequently

Thanks!
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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I just switched to latex but am not a source of deep intel here. I found the install to be like any other tube I've changed, ie no big deal.

I removed the valve stems to add sealent, but don't know how much sealent I should have used. I think there's a recommended liquid sealent (Stans, maybe?) but confess to using one in a portable spray can (Hutchinson, I think) b/c I had it laying around and wanted to use it up. This was a pain due to the air trying to make the sealent escape while putting the valve core back in.
"Sue probably did it wrong - don't be like Sue."

These tubes go low overnight, so you'll need to air them up race morning. ie. If you do a race with a mandatory bike check in the day before, don't bother airing up your tires as they'll be low in the morning anyway.

The question I'd like to tack on to your post is this: should one use latex tubes at the same psi they ran their butyl ones?

I raced in Cleveland last weekend as my 1st using latex, rolling day 1 at my usual psi (90 in 23 mm GP4000s) and my bike was like a bucking bronco on that course. Day 2 I rolled 5 psi lower and the bucking seemed less, but I can't discount the possible contributions made by: shorter course which cut the back half of the rough roads out, newly gained confidence from course familiarity, and / or lower course density due to smaller field on day 2 allowing me to take better lines.

To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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Yes you should (assuming you want to go faster).

- Check your rim tape, the inside of the rim and your tires very carefully. If there are any exposed spoke holes or other edges it could cause a puncture, they are much more sensitive to that than butyl. If you are at all unsure, fix it first. The sound of an expensive latex tube exploding while you inflate it will make you want to puke.
- Before fully inflating but with a bit of pressure make sure there is no tube exposed outside the tire once you have the tire and tube installed. They are usually colored (pink or green) so easy to spot if they are exposed.

I use Vittoria ones with the removeable valve core but mostly because that's what is easiest for me to find at the best price.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [Zenmaster28] [ In reply to ]
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Zenmaster28 wrote:
Yes you should (assuming you want to go faster).

- Check your rim tape, the inside of the rim and your tires very carefully. If there are any exposed spoke holes or other edges it could cause a puncture, they are much more sensitive to that than butyl. If you are at all unsure, fix it first. The sound of an expensive latex tube exploding while you inflate it will make you want to puke.
- Before fully inflating but with a bit of pressure make sure there is no tube exposed outside the tire once you have the tire and tube installed. They are usually colored (pink or green) so easy to spot if they are exposed.

I use Vittoria ones with the removeable valve core but mostly because that's what is easiest for me to find at the best price.

My rims do not use tape. They have a plastic cap over each of the spoke insertion holes. Will this be an issue.

Is sealant mandatory? I have never used it before so not sure how to add it.

Thanks, and sorry for these noob questions.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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Latex tubes are measurably faster and an easy way to squeeze more efficiency out of your bike. So yes, I'd recommend it to anyone, especially if you're running a good tire, like the GP5000.

The trick with latex is that it can be more prone to damage during installation, so more caution is needed on first installation. I do a few things that work well for me;

1. I always blow air into the tubes to give them shape before installing them. Doing so reduces the likelyhood that the latex will get pinched under the beads of your tire.

2. I try not to use tire levers to 'seat' the tire back on the rim. The levers can stretch/poke holes in the tubes more easily. If my thumbs aren't strong enough, I use the Crankbrother speedier tire lever seat the tire as the tool doesn't (or rather shouldn't) contact the tube during installation.

3. After pumping the tire to ~20psi, I check along the perimeter of the tire to see if the tube has gotten 'pinched' anywhere. Just squeeze the tire together and look for any bit of latex poking out under the tire bead (it shouldn't).

4. Pump it up and forget about it.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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robbieBDP wrote:
Zenmaster28 wrote:
Yes you should (assuming you want to go faster).

- Check your rim tape, the inside of the rim and your tires very carefully. If there are any exposed spoke holes or other edges it could cause a puncture, they are much more sensitive to that than butyl. If you are at all unsure, fix it first. The sound of an expensive latex tube exploding while you inflate it will make you want to puke.
- Before fully inflating but with a bit of pressure make sure there is no tube exposed outside the tire once you have the tire and tube installed. They are usually colored (pink or green) so easy to spot if they are exposed.

I use Vittoria ones with the removeable valve core but mostly because that's what is easiest for me to find at the best price.


My rims do not use tape. They have a plastic cap over each of the spoke insertion holes. Will this be an issue.

Is sealant mandatory? I have never used it before so not sure how to add it.

Thanks, and sorry for these noob questions.

I've only used tape but I'm pretty sure I've read others here on ST using those. As long as there are no exposed sharp edges it should be fine I would think. Sealant isn't mandatory, it just provides some flat protection
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [Zenmaster28] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks all.

Last question- does anyone have a particular brand they can recommend for 50mm+ rim depths?
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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Michelin Aircomp Latex tubes are great and come in a 60mm length valve, which should fit (although might be tight) and would mean that you don't have to faff around with extenders.

Edited to add: I wouldn't bother with sealant; in my experience latex is less puncture prone that butyl, so I wouldn't bother unless you're paranoid and/or can't change a tube. I don't see why everyone buys latex tubes and then throws away half the benefit by pointlessly filling them with sealant.

Also, do this:

beston wrote:
3. After pumping the tire to ~20psi, I check along the perimeter of the tire to see if the tube has gotten 'pinched' anywhere. Just squeeze the tire together and look for any bit of latex poking out under the tire bead (it shouldn't).

Last edited by: awenborn: Aug 16, 19 4:39
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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Your rim depth has nothing to do with tubes. You buy by tires width.

They are just tubes. Faster tubes but just tubes.

You don’t need sealant any more than butyl tubes did.

Latex tubes didn’t make your ride rough in Cleveland, that bridge was just rough. Actually latex is known for a slightly plusher ride but I can’t feel it.

They are just tubes.

Install and inflate.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [awenborn] [ In reply to ]
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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robbieBDP wrote:
Yes you should (assuming you want to go faster).
- Check your rim tape, the inside of the rim and your tires very carefully. If there are any exposed spoke holes or other edges it could cause a puncture, they are much more sensitive to that than butyl. If you are at all unsure, fix it first. The sound of an expensive latex tube exploding while you inflate it will make you want to puke.
- Before fully inflating but with a bit of pressure make sure there is no tube exposed outside the tire once you have the tire and tube installed. They are usually colored (pink or green) so easy to spot if they are exposed.

I use Vittoria ones with the removeable valve core but mostly because that's what is easiest for me to find at the best price.


I have nearly burst into tears at the sound of this and the thought of all that money pissed away in an instant as my second tube also caught under the bead..

I've gone back to Butyl now and i'm just going to pedal harder.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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robbieBDP wrote:

My rims do not use tape. They have a plastic cap over each of the spoke insertion holes. Will this be an issue.

Is sealant mandatory? I have never used it before so not sure how to add it.

1. two loops of Stan's rim tape. Use the width appropriate for your wheels.

2. 2oz sealant in tubes for "A" races. Remove valve core, squirt in sealant, replace valve core.

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [ericMPro] [ In reply to ]
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ericMPro wrote:
robbieBDP wrote:

My rims do not use tape. They have a plastic cap over each of the spoke insertion holes. Will this be an issue.

Is sealant mandatory? I have never used it before so not sure how to add it.

1. two loops of Stan's rim tape. Use the width appropriate for your wheels.

2. 2oz sealant in tubes for "A" races. Remove valve core, squirt in sealant, replace valve core.

Interesting to me you differentiate A races. Once the sealant is in, it's in, right? Are you changing tubes after your A race back to ones w/o sealant?

To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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'Thanks all.

Last question- does anyone have a particular brand they can recommend for 50mm+ rim depths'


I think what you are asking is more about valve length. They come in various lengths depending on the depth of the wheel. You can also use valve extenders. Use thin plumbers tape for a tight seal and unscrew the valve completely and tighten open so that you can add air.


.

Once, I was fast. But I got over it.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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I switched then I switched back as I didn’t notice much of a difference in speed or comfort. For me I was switching between racing tires and training tires and it was just a PITA to change back and forth. Plus the balances just BARELY fit my tires where butyl fit easily. Didn’t hear one explode but I’ve had minor punctures for whatever reason I didn’t see until I inflated the tire. After going through 3 tubes in a season I was done spending extra money.

With that said I still have one extra latex tube that’s been in my tire all year and it hasn’t flatted yet. So if you’re using just one set of tires it might be a good idea.

I still lapped everyone on the couch!
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [Tsunami] [ In reply to ]
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After the A race they become training or local race tubes... the sealant will eventually harden and cause the tube to fail

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [ericMPro] [ In reply to ]
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ericMPro wrote:
robbieBDP wrote:

My rims do not use tape. They have a plastic cap over each of the spoke insertion holes. Will this be an issue.

Is sealant mandatory? I have never used it before so not sure how to add it.

1. two loops of Stan's rim tape. Use the width appropriate for your wheels.

2. 2oz sealant in tubes for "A" races. Remove valve core, squirt in sealant, replace valve core.

Doesn't this defeat the whole purpose of latex tubes?

Gone with the wind

Instagram: palmtreestriathlon
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [Tsunami] [ In reply to ]
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Tsunami wrote:
I just switched to latex but am not a source of deep intel here. I found the install to be like any other tube I've changed, ie no big deal.

I removed the valve stems to add sealent, but don't know how much sealent I should have used. I think there's a recommended liquid sealent (Stans, maybe?) but confess to using one in a portable spray can (Hutchinson, I think) b/c I had it laying around and wanted to use it up. This was a pain due to the air trying to make the sealent escape while putting the valve core back in.
"Sue probably did it wrong - don't be like Sue."

These tubes go low overnight, so you'll need to air them up race morning. ie. If you do a race with a mandatory bike check in the day before, don't bother airing up your tires as they'll be low in the morning anyway.

The question I'd like to tack on to your post is this: should one use latex tubes at the same psi they ran their butyl ones?

I raced in Cleveland last weekend as my 1st using latex, rolling day 1 at my usual psi (90 in 23 mm GP4000s) and my bike was like a bucking bronco on that course. Day 2 I rolled 5 psi lower and the bucking seemed less, but I can't discount the possible contributions made by: shorter course which cut the back half of the rough roads out, newly gained confidence from course familiarity, and / or lower course density due to smaller field on day 2 allowing me to take better lines.

You can run slightly lower pressure in Latex, the softness of the tube actually reduces the possibility of pinch flats. But you are also too light for 90psi in a 23mm tire. I would go with 85 or even 80 for you.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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robbieBDP wrote:
Is sealant mandatory? I have never used it before so not sure how to add it.

I have used latex tubes for years and have NEVER used sealant. It's not a requirement.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [ericMPro] [ In reply to ]
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ericMPro wrote:
After the A race they become training or local race tubes... the sealant will eventually harden and cause the tube to fail

:-(

I thought sealant was a good idea from reading this. Old info, I guess?
http://www.thomasgerlach.com/...onman-triathlon.html

To breathe, to feel, to know I'm alive.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [Tsunami] [ In reply to ]
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Tsunami wrote:
ericMPro wrote:
After the A race they become training or local race tubes... the sealant will eventually harden and cause the tube to fail


:-(

I thought sealant was a good idea from reading this. Old info, I guess?
http://www.thomasgerlach.com/...onman-triathlon.html

Sealant slightly increases the rolling resistance (but not as much as a butyl tube). It will eventually harden though. But if you are doing everything you can to not get a flat, the sealant helps. Personally I don't run sealant and have never had an issue. Of course now that I say this it will be just my luck that I'll need it next time haha.

Also, as a general reply to the thread, don't carry a latex as a spare in your flat kit. Latex doesn't hold CO2 and would go flat within minutes of being inflated from a CO2 cartridge. Carry a buytl spare.
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [palmtrees] [ In reply to ]
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palmtrees wrote:
ericMPro wrote:
robbieBDP wrote:

My rims do not use tape. They have a plastic cap over each of the spoke insertion holes. Will this be an issue.

Is sealant mandatory? I have never used it before so not sure how to add it.

1. two loops of Stan's rim tape. Use the width appropriate for your wheels.

2. 2oz sealant in tubes for "A" races. Remove valve core, squirt in sealant, replace valve core.

Doesn't this defeat the whole purpose of latex tubes?

No

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [Tsunami] [ In reply to ]
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It’s a great idea. Just know the effects


Tsunami wrote:
ericMPro wrote:
After the A race they become training or local race tubes... the sealant will eventually harden and cause the tube to fail

:-(

I thought sealant was a good idea from reading this. Old info, I guess?
http://www.thomasgerlach.com/...onman-triathlon.html

Eric Reid AeroFit | Instagram Portfolio
Aerodynamic Retul Bike Fitting

“You are experiencing the criminal coverup of a foreign backed fascist hostile takeover of a mafia shakedown of an authoritarian religious slow motion coup. Persuade people to vote for Democracy.”
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [robbieBDP] [ In reply to ]
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Generally good info above.

I don't use sealant, because most pinch flats & punctures with latex are slow leaks, so not game over. The exception is a blow out (BANG!), either from a pinched tube (install error and the real reason to avoid tire irons) or a hole in the tire or tape, but sealant isn't great for that anyway.

Just a note about how "expensive" latex tubes (and install errors) can be: latex patches easily, so don't just throw tubes away!
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Re: Latex tubes - school me [RCCo] [ In reply to ]
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RCCo wrote:
robbieBDP wrote:
Yes you should (assuming you want to go faster).
- Check your rim tape, the inside of the rim and your tires very carefully. If there are any exposed spoke holes or other edges it could cause a puncture, they are much more sensitive to that than butyl. If you are at all unsure, fix it first. The sound of an expensive latex tube exploding while you inflate it will make you want to puke.
- Before fully inflating but with a bit of pressure make sure there is no tube exposed outside the tire once you have the tire and tube installed. They are usually colored (pink or green) so easy to spot if they are exposed.

I use Vittoria ones with the removeable valve core but mostly because that's what is easiest for me to find at the best price.


I have nearly burst into tears at the sound of this and the thought of all that money pissed away in an instant as my second tube also caught under the bead..

I've gone back to Butyl now and i'm just going to pedal harder.

I destroyed both tubes in the span of 5min for installation, and there went $40

Sometimes I can get the last bit of tire on easily, and other times it's really hard. What am I doing wrong here?
In those cases the tube got stuck under the tire bead causing the damn tube to tear.

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