I thought so. Good thing I was on the trainer at the time.

If I recall correctly Brad Bevan's strategy was to hammer the swim and T1 quickly and lap the field on the bike, sit in, no running shoes (so saves another 10 seconds) and then get out running early and try to lap the field on the run....then sit in (as he did behind Lessing and Allan) and then sprint in for the finish a full lap ahead.

As for Symond's lose crank bolt, I've done that too, in a A- race (St. Croix)....it started coming lose in the last 10K. I had to get the crank removed before the race to properly glue on the quarq magnet and the tech in the shop did not have a torque wrench and just tightened on feel. I only noticed the looseness of the crank some time after crashing at 20K (at an aid station, not major, but enough for some road rash and a sprained left hand and some handlebar and brake straightening). Not sure the crash had anything to do with the crank coming loose though because I landed on the non drive side and the crank was coming loose on the drive side (that's the way the Quarq Elsa would come loose). In any case, I see the lose crank syndrome a lot more with a variety of modern cranks vs the old taper square (but I don't want to say anything, I'll get 100 people come on here saying their taper square cranks came off the BB spindle !!!).

maybe because cervelo posts say 12 NM max? or do they, can't recall. at any rate, that is way more clamping force than needed and going that far may well cause damage. Dash says not to exceed 5 or 6 at most, ie right at the limit of where the saddle might rotate in the current cervelo posts

In any case, I see the lose crank syndrome a lot more with a variety of modern cranks vs the old taper square (but I don't want to say anything, I'll get 100 people come on here saying their taper square cranks came off the BB spindle !!!).

Mine did, once, on a shitty old Norco mountain bike (pre-suspension days). It pretty much rattled the bolt loose and came off.

Friend of mine also broke a crankset (left side) while on a group ride. Strong rider, but I think that crank had been in a crash, had a hairline crack in it anyway. When we looked at it after the crash, we could tell that it had been cracked for quite a while.

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Have you changed the cable housing too? Could be rusty or slightly damaged.

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Francois-Xavier Li @FrancoisLi
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Most single-bolt hardware have torque requirements that high. On the Specialized post, I could never get it to hold at anything less than 150in-lbs, or roughly 15Nm; 12Nm was recommended, IIRC, but I could never get it to hold. The only post I've used where 5-6Nm would actually hold the saddle in place is a two-bolt system like the Thomson.

John actually thinks - and I agree - that it's more a function of the length of the support structure. The rail do not snap at the clamp. They snap at a midpoint. So it's either that the clamp supports it not enough, or, John seems to think, too much. A clamp that's too long puts all the load on a shorter section of rail.

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Yup, replaced calipers, cables and housing at the same time. Worked fine for 6 months then started sticking. Guess something has worked its way in there somehow. Will likely end up replacing housing and cable again as they're not exactly expensive, just kind of annoying when it worked fine for a decade previously!

Spray some lube in the caliper pivot points and increase the spring tension a touch.

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This should probably be your signature.

Sucks about the saddle. Good luck next year.

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How does Danny Hart sit down with balls that big?

As much as you can call running behind Mark Allen and Simon Lessing 'sitting in', yes that was the strategy and how it played out :-)