There is a tool made for that - it spans out at three points and wedges under that race (I think that it is actually for automotive applications but I have used it on bikes). But, if it was mine I would try the method you picture first just to see if it works. If you are careful you wont harm anything.

I will try to track down a link to that tool as well.

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What if the Hokey Pokey is what it is all about?

I'm sure with all the great bike shops in Miami, you won't have a problem finding someone to help you. Hahahahaha

(that's sarcasm, for anyone who has not lived in Miami)

Good luck. And your camera rocks. Great photos - especially for close-ups!

try freezing it out, along with the screwdriver. You may need to sharpen the tip of the screwdriver as well.

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Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

Hah, funny! I already visited one shop (won't name names) that couldn't even tell me if they had just the bearings -- that maybe I should call Felt.

I can't wait to go back now and see how much they want to charge to remove this thing.....

Just the pocket sized SD400.....and I do love macro :)

Hmm, I can see it now:

"Honey, what the hell is your bike doing in our freezer?!?!"

Yeah, why am I not surprised? Did you go to the store that sells Felts? My fav was trying to get a specific handlebar in a smaller size. They whipped out some ancient catalog of parts and didn't see it in there. They even showed me the page it 'should' have been on. So, I was told that they don't come in that size, when the manufacturer's website clearly says they do...

Have you tried wrapping it with a thick towel or something and giving it a few gentle taps on the outside with a hammer to see if you can loosen it?

http://www.parktool.com/...at=80&item=RT--1

would this do the trick?

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sometimes you just have to eat the cake

That is the motorcycle version of the Park RT-1 which is what you would use for a standard headset. In general integrated headsets are not pressed in and so should not require a special tool to remove the bearings. Using a screwdriver as the picture shows is usually the most that is needed.

The strange thing is that the picture shows the "inner race and bearings removed". As far as I know all FSA and Cane Creek integrated headsets use sealed bearings. The entire bearing should be removed as a unit. My guess is that it has been ridden loose for an extended period of time and the outer race has been pounded into the head tube. Hopefully the headtube has not been significantly deformed. Here's the link to the owners manual for the Cane Creek IS headsets. Note that they do not discuss removal.

http://www.canecreek.com/fileadmin/canecreek/products/headsets/man_cc_head/IS_instr_12-16-2004.pdf

I've never liked integrated headsets. Still can't figure out what problem they solve over a standard headset. They work ok if perfectly maintained, but if you ride one loose for an extended period of time you can destroy your frame. Hopefully that is not the case here.

Right, if only there were a lip there for it to catch on....but not with the integrated headset.

Yep, the outer race is definitely in there -- I'll admit to not taking care of this as soon as I should have. The inner race and bearings popped out when I tried the screwdriver trick (which worked fine on the upper). I un-sealed the bearings :-) This is going to get ugly I'm afraid.....

For those anxiously following this thread...

SUCCESS!



Removal went something like this. Find a long, thin screwdriver (A) (flathead) and bend into a slight arc. Insert from top of headtube, rest tip on the very thin lip of the bearing race. Insert screwdriver (B), which has a nice rubbery handle, into the headtube from the bottom, BUTT first so that it forces the other screwdriver against the wall of the headtube and edge of the lip. Tappety tap tap with a small hammer at the end of screwdriver (A) -- bingo! Here's a recreation (those aren't the actual screwdrivers):



Whew. Now, to clean up the headtube and lube the new cartridge....

Just bumping this thread for another technique:

I used the claw end of a regular hammer to pull out my stuck outer bearing race. Just worked the claw slowly around the race so it would come out evenly. Took about 30 seconds.

This was after my LBS scratched their heads and said they couldn't do it.

Nice.

Now just to add to the OP (13 years too late really) the reason for the bearing damage (the indents) is that the brg was pressed (or hammered) in with the force applied onto the inner ring of the bearing, rather than via the outer ring only. The force passes from inner to outer via the ball bearings, and bearings are not designed for that kind of loading.