Which frame do you currently have?

Which frame are you thinking about buying?

I have mechanical on my TT bike and hydraulic on my road bike. Night and day difference, hydraulic is way better, but I'm not looking to switch to hydraulic on the TT bike anytime soon (I don't live near any mountains or long climbs/descents).

If you stick with mechanical, you can absolutely swap over your current Di2 setup. That's one of the reasons I went this route, kept my very aero cabled brake levers and just added some mechanical calipers for less than $100.

I have hydraulic disc brakes on my winter roadie, so confidence inspiring in the wet and crappy UK winter, rims on my TT, I wouldn't swap just now as I sold a kidney for a set of 808s and a Super 9.

Downside is they need regular bleeding esp if like me you hang your bike up in storage by front or rear wheels.

hydraulic is superior to mechanical. as we see, the world is shifting to disc brake. that also means a shift to hydraulic. we will also see a shift to consumer-mechanics. as the mass extinction of the pro bike shop and the move to consumer direct continues, working on your bike means: 1) your great LBS if you're lucky to have one; 2) your mobile repairman; 3) you're doing it yourself.

because some of you are going to be doing it yourself, i've spent the last week boning up on hydraulics, so that i can write and video this stuff to you intelligently. we'll be publishing a lot on this. who makes the best fitting and connectors? the best tools for brake bleeding and brake adjustment? how do you do it? is there a set of best practices?

if you were in my workshop today you'd see a full suite of hydraulic tools, pieces, gizmos all over the place. i'm going to try to help make your future better, but this is for sure your future.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Hey Dan I’m a pro bike shop mechanic and not dead yet😜
I have plenty of work to do builds & service.
As far as disc hydro brakes go 95% of my customers will never service( bleed, change pads or install new rotors) they can barely change a tube.

Hydro on Road and Gravel
Mech on TT

Hydro is night and day better .. I plan to switch to hydro on my Parlee TTiR disc this offseason since I have all the parts.

i agree with everything you wrote. but when i wrote about option #1, that's you. you're one of the jewels in the desert. but you have to admit, it's getting deserty out there. taking me for example, i actually live at the top of an actual desert, there is no pro shop left within an hour drive from me, there is no mobile mechanic around, so whether it's business or personal i have no good option. i promise you that if you lived within 30min of me, and if i could get a reasonably quick turnaround, you'd have more of my business than you could handle.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Ya I hear ya it’s doable if you take your time and have the tools.
I’ve been to your high desert compound( fit class of 2015?), it’s out there!

I am on a Felt IA 10 with full tririg breaks and front end. I am looking at a new IA or Cervelo P series. I want to be able to go with an TriRig or 51 Speedshop front end on either bike. I have been happy with my felt and the fit but the Cervelo is interesting and lighter. I don't live in a hilly area but like the idea of stopping when I need to...

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"If you want to experience all of the successes and pleasure in life, you have to be willing to accept all the pain and failure that comes with it"

Wait, are you saying you can't stop when you need to with your Omega X brakes? If so, something is wrong. You should be able to lock up those rims any time you like, as well as delicately modulate your way to just before lockup. You shouldn't be wanting for braking power or modulation. If you are, there's either an issue with brake setup, pad selection, or pad/rim problems.

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TriRig.com

Hi,

Night and day difference - especially in the wet with cold hands - hydro rules.

The only main issue with TT bikes at the moment is the limited choice of hydro brake levers and their price.

Pat.