There is a tube that connects the bearing inner races. Push it to the side a little, and carefully tap one of the bearings out with a rod. Go slow and move around the bearing as you do this. Take the little NDS one out first, it's probably the only one that's bad.

I found when replacing bearings that it worked better if I didn't press them in too hard. I'd check them by putting it all together and applying pressure with the QR like they'd see on the bike. You want the bearings to run free with QR pressure... which means they are a little rough without it. If you install them too tight then they'll be preloaded with the QR and fail early.

EDIT: After thinking about it, I might have that backwards. You may need to install them extra tight so that the QR presses the inner races closer together, to remove preload. Been awhile since I've done mine.

Tap them out.

I remembered this from 10+ years ago. Since the bearings are already shot, you can knock them out with a screwdriver, etc...

https://extrememomentum.com/?p=866

---

"Most of my heroes don't appear on no stamps"
Blog = http://extrememomentum.com|Photos = http://wheelgoodphotos.com

Thanks. Got them out no problem. To my surprise, they spin perfectly when they're out, it feels like they were maybe pressed in to tight? It was pretty hard for me to get the leverage to press the tube between them to the side, should it have been easier? I feel like if I reinstall them less tight it will work as it should now.

---

Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

Press the new bearings in until they stop.

I'm guessing you didn't check the bearings while clamped with a QR? I put a nut over each axle end and then tighten the QR with good pressure. If properly set, the bearings turn free. They do *not* turn free without the QR pressure.

After thinking about it, I'm pretty sure you want that inner tube very tight. This preloads the inner races by pushing outward on them. The QR pressure pushes inwards, removing the preload.

Huh yeah, I guess you're right. Of course now I'm here with a dissembled axle that I need to put back together. I guess I'm a bit confused how they would spin differently while clamped with a QR when one of the end caps of the axle is threaded on though? The clamping wouldn't be able to press that in at all unless I'm thinking about it incorrectly.

---

Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

I have an SL+ and both axle caps just pop on and contact the bearing inner races. No threads. There are tubes inside the main hub and freehub that contact the inner races. The QR pressure basically presses all this together over the axle.

Use new bearings... you probably damaged them a bit getting them out even if they feel ok.

Yeah the end caps popping off is what I've seen online but one of mine threads... Hmm. Might just bring it to a bike shop.

---

Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

You don't need to bring it to a bike shop.

What side threads? If it's just one side that threads, then it doesn't change how it works... assuming that the axle slides in freely?

If it's a *good* shop with proper bearing presses and good mechanics, then fine. Else...

I'd certainly prefer not to, though it is a "good" bike shop.

So I reassembled everything (just with the old bearings for now so I can get a handle on what I'm doing). Also though I ordered a 6902 and a 6802 bearing because I thought they were different on each side but the ones in there are definitely identical. Anyways, here is a video of it spinning on a bike: https://photos.app.goo.gl/Qp8eAE9zzqaNdcxL8 It seems to spin very well but the sound is significant and I would think it should have zero sound while spinning like that, correct?

---

Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

I believe mine has 6902 on the drive side and 6802 elsewhere. Guessing they made some design changes but didn't change the name.

It should be quiet, but feel is a better indicator. You need nuts or washers over the axle ends to really feel it though.

How did you install the bearings?

Skewer press method. Definitely too loud to be working as intended. Also definitely all 6802 bearings as well which isn't consistent with everything I could find online. Odd. If you could tell in the video, there also wasn't as much clearance from the 11cog to the chainstay as there should have been. Maybe that was a weird cassette issue though.

---

Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

You need to press on both the inner and outer races evenly to install. Otherwise there is a good chance of ruining the bearings. Fender washers that just clear the axle, and and the old bearings will work.

Is it an 11spd freehub? If so, check to make sure you don't have extra spacers between the freehub and main body... looks like a lot of room on that side.

Interesting. I was clearly able to mount an 11sp cassette but upon closer inspection, its certainly a 10sp freehub. A different an easily fixable problem...

I pressed with older bearings on top so they should have been evenly pressed. A little frustrating that I can't get this thing to spin nicely though. I appreciate all your help, at this point I'll probably just take it into the bike shop with new bearings and see if they can figure it out. I'm pretty much just trying to fix it up to sell anyways...

---

Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

You best have the washers too. Even with the old bearing for support. There is lateral play in the bearing so you end up pressing a lot harder on the inner race than the outer.

You only need to press on the outer race to install a cartridge bearing.

When there is an interior surface that the inner race pushes against, it's best to support both races. If the tolerances of the hub are off a little, you can easily damage the bearing if you don't.

If the hub shell and the inner tube aren't manufactured to the required specifications, they shouldn't be in the finished product.

At least that's the way that I make things.

No argument there! But it happens too often in mass produced hubs.

If the tube applies incorrect preload it can be shimmed.
Have you checked the freehub bearings?
If it is rough when the freehub is spinning with the wheel but not when ratcheting, then they are toast.
If it is a Zipp freehub, they usually die at the same rate as the wheel bearings.

Bumping this up because a new snag has been thrown in.

So it turns out it was the freehub bearings I think because I replaced the hub bearings with new ones and the problem persisted. I ordered a new freehub because I wanted 11sp anyways, and it turns out the freehub that fits 15mm Powertap axles doesn't fit mine. It's a completely different design. So now I'm not sure where to find the correct hub here. The red is the old hub and the gold is the new one. While the axle fits properly, it isn't even close to fitting for a number of reasons.

Pictures of the two hubs

---

Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
Deals on Wheels - Results, schedule, videos, sponsors

Is your new freehub body from Powertap or Zipp?