Francois,
http://www.trekbikes.com/...t_Service_Manual.pdf

Page 6 - You'll need to remove the headset cover and then look at the second picture (figure 2). See the steering axle nut at the top of figure 2? That's going to be your culprit. Tighten it up and you'll be good to go.

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

brilliant thanks!

just to be complete...

with the bearing preload nut just finger tight you install the stem to the fork and torque those three bolts down first

then set the preload (it's not much...2-3Nm if memory serves)

then tighten the stem pinch bolt to lock in the preload

as a final check, before you put the stem cover on, try turning the preload nut...if you can, and the pinch bolt is torqued to spec, you may need a replacement preload nut w315072.

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Carl Matson

Did that before riding this am and it was all good. Thanks again for the quick answers.

Glad I found this thread, as I have been trying to figure out why my front end continues to come loose. Despite torqueing all bolts in the specified order, and to spec (w/ torque wrench). Plus cleaning the bolt threads and adding blue thread locker each time I re-assemble the front end.
Does Trek cover a replacement steering preload nut under warranty (2011 SC 9.9), or do I have to buy one?

Thx, S.

do the "final check" in my post above, and if you can turn the preload nut then there's a warranty PN for you there.

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Carl Matson

Thanks much for the response, Carl, esp considering it's Saturday night ;). For my education, should there be thread locker on the nut (I haven't put any on since I did not see evidence during first disassembly)? For warranty, I assume go through the LBS (Mellow Johnnys in ATX)?

Thanks again,

- Stephan

No thread lock in the preload nut. If Mellow Johnnys is convenient then it may go smoothest, but with proof of purchase you should have no problem at any Trek dealer.

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Carl Matson

Carl-

Quick Question as I am about to start pulling my bike apart a bit; I need to replace the headset(SC 9.9) as it cracked(2nd time); do I need to remove all of the housing/wiring/etc and then re-run or is there a clever way to do this to save me some hassle & time?


Thanks,

DB

not clear to me from your description what has actually been cracked ...if you are replacing a bearing then this is no different than breaking down your bike for travel, which does not require re cabling. if you are replacing a stem then you will need to disconnect the front brake wedge from the cable and rerun that inner wire but there is no need to detach anything else.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl

Please could you advise me regarding the headset creak I have on my 2010/11 speed concept 9.9 frameset. I believe I have the old type pre load nut and require p/n W315072. Tried the procedure as you stated in the thread but find the front end just comes loose from the frame eventually and if I over tigthen to solve this it creaks all the time. Tried to obtain the replacement h/set nut W315072 from Dexter here in the UK but they have no stock of this. Is it possible to order one direct from Trek, happy to pay any costs.

Apart from that the frame has been fantastic, the 2014 model looks even better.

Many Thanks

Paul

Hi Paul-

Glad to hear the bike has been good to you (other than the current concern).

If you've been overtightening the stem pinch bolt it's possible (if not likely) the stem has been cracked and that's part of why it continues coming loose. The replacement preload nut has a new part #W328492 (might explain why no stock was showing for the old #?), and I strongly encourage you and your shop to inspect the stem - especially in the area around the pinch band where it clamps the preload nut.

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Carl Matson

Hi Carl
I have a problem with the steering feeling 'jerky' it seems to be caused by the cables entering the top tube - is this normal?

As in the cables are too tight and not allowing for proper steering?

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Favorite Gear: Dimond | Cadex | Desoto Sport | Hoka One One

GMAN hit the first thing that popped into my head. Does it happen while you're riding or just when you're wheeling the bike around by hand and/or in the workstand? What year and model? Have you asked your mechanic about it?

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Carl Matson

It feels stiff and 'lumpy' when stationary and seems to get less noticeable the faster you go - not surprising as you are moving the bars less. It is a 9.9 and I have only just bought it but it has had very little use

A 2014 9.9 then? My first guess is stll the same as GMAN's...one or more of the housing sections heading back into the frame may be slightly too short, causing them to jump over each other as you turn rather than just sliding next to each other. Another possibility is that one or more of the double-ended ferrules joining your cockpit housing to the frame housing is located right on/next to the internal steerer, and as it slides over the top or up from the side it might feel like a jump or a notch. Ideally, those ferrules should be either in front of or behind the internal steerer (and staggered relative to each other)...which can be accomplished by changing the housing length on either side of the connection.

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Carl Matson

Thanks Carl
Sorry I didn't explain too well, I bought it second hand and it is about 2 years old but with very little use. I stripped it down a little and when I loosened the allen bolt on top of the steerer it seems to have cured the problem.

Thanks again

Roy

Ah...much clearer...

Probably has nothing to do with housing then...based on your fix, I'm betting you need to replace your upper headset bearing (at least...maybe lower as well). Sounds like you're experiencing "indexed steering", caused by the bearing race having worn-in at one of the bearing balls...a natural consequence of many many miles of basically straight-ahead riding and possibly exacerbated by the bearings having been over-preloaded. Loosening the preload nut will smooth things out, yes, but at the expense of your headset now likely being too loose. The underlying issue is still there...a worn bearing (or two).

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Carl Matson

Indexed steering - sums it up.
Visit to the Trek dealer needed.

Thanks again

Roy

Carl question about the head set bearings. I recently pulled my bike apart because it was getting very difficult to turn the bars. Once I got the bars off the bike and pulled the fork out the bearings pretty much fell out in pieces. My question is this, is there a special tool for getting the bearings out? It seems like the outer ring to the bearing case is still in the head set and will not just slip out. The manual says that they should just fall out, but its going to take a little more than gravity to get the remaining bearing housing out of the frame. Thanks

howdy-

assume this is a first-generation 9-series? one key with respect to the lower bearing is that it needs to come out of the frame along with the fork...if you try to remove the fork while the bearing is still in the frame the internal steerer will catch on it and could pull the bearing apart. as for getting the remaining bit out of the frame, for that and any number of other little jobs I've found a cheap set of picks (in the bargain bin of most hardware stores) is a really handy addition to my tool box:

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Carl Matson

hello my name is Marcelo , I have a one trek concept 9.9 in 2011 , and my bike with this problem in Headset , with this noise and this loose , I read on a blog that other people had the same problem , and I wonder what the solution for this, because I am looking to buy a new one, but I need to resolve this issue before , I live in Brazil then hope you have some solution to my problem , because I am the brand trek fan, and do not want to disappoint me in relation to this company , I await contact of you , and I hope a treatment will height of the Trek brand !

Hello Marcelo

It's not easy to diagnose problems over the internet. Have you been to your Trek dealer yet?

There is a link to the original Speed Concept service manual in this post...it will help what follows make more sense.

Here are a couple things for either you or your dealer to try:

• remove the stem cover and tighten the stem pinch band to correct torque
• now try to turn the bearing preload nut with a 6mm hex wrench


• if it turns, part # W328492 is the warranty replacement for the preload nut
• if it turns, also check the area near the stem pinch band for cracks, which can occur when the band is tightened beyond spec to eliminate noise


• if you see cracks then you need to replace your stem...part # depends on which stem you have...it should be printed on the underside of the stem

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Carl Matson