Which model do you have?

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

Ahhh...... whatta good night's sleep will do for the frustration level.

I have an 02' TT7 and I got it, but damn it was a chore. I understand the dynamics of the clamping and that it has to be able to rotate, but one wrong move and you're back to four pieces. Any tips for next time?

Brian

Sorry, no. I think we have different clamping types. I have the "classic" beams.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

Also, be careful when you tighten it down. Those little metal disks will crack if you look at them wrong. I was getting fitted in a prominent shop a couple years ago and I think we went through 2 or 3 of those things.

This topic comes up on triathlon forums a lot. And every time, I feel the need to chime in with a resounding "YEAH! WHAT HE SAID!". OMG, that seatpost binder is horrible. I made an adjustement to my saddle the other day, and couldn't believe how much of a hassle it was. I don't have any specific engineering advice to give Softride, but I can't imagine that it would be difficult to design *something* better than the normal settup.

Sorry I don't have any advice for you. The next time I futz with my saddle, I'm gonna make sure I have some Bob Marley on the stereo, and a glass of wine in the tummy. Without such mellowing influences, I'm likely to go postal :-).

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-Mark Rebuck, http://www.markrebuck.com/

Come on, its not that bad! Take a look at the instructions and insider tips I have listed below and this will never bother you again.

A note on installing the 104 (seat clamp) on a Softride Beam. Put that

hammer away! Instead:



1. Slide the clamp onto the beam without any of the hardware on it.

2. Plug one tapered disc into the seat clamp at a 45º angle (with the slot towards the top).

3. Insert one of the seat’s rails into the tapered disc’s slot.

4. Repeat procedures two and three with the other side.

5. Insert a 5mm Hex wrench into a tapered disc’s hole and pry it so it’s parallel with the sides of the seat clamp (see figure).

6. Repeat with other side.

7. Lube the threads of the bolt and install with clamp discs (NOTE: do not lube tapered discs).

8. Torque bolt to 90 in./lbs.: DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! It only needs to hold the seat from tilting (tighten the 104 seat bolt at a similar torque to a derailleur

cable clamp bolt.)

Note: To install the seat a lower setting, simply install the tapered discs with the slots toward the bottom of he 104 seat clamp.



Thank you,

Adam Greene

Softride Bike

adam.greene@softride.com

www.softride.com

can this designed be vastly improved? i think so. will softride do it? well, i guess it all depends on how long they woul like to stay in business. see 'gm vs. toyota'....

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Where would you want to swim ?

I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, trying to restart previous anti-Softride rants here... I LOVE my Softride as a whole... and I deeply appreciate the way you monitor this and other forums... but I have to ask: How many complaints do you have to hear about your seatpost before you stop telling your customers that



Yes. Yes, it really is that bad. 100% of the Softride owners I've met in person have had the same complaint. You can continue blaming us (your customers) for our difficulty, or you can face the problem and design something better. Given the fantastic engineering seen everywhere else on Softride bikes, why all the denial about this one part?

Apologies for any hurt feelings. I don't want y'all to lose sight of the fact that I am a happy Softride customer overall.

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-Mark Rebuck, http://www.markrebuck.com/

had a Softide SE7......I had none of the problems mentioned with the seatpost clamp thingy...I found it abit different then ALL other bike saddle mount options...but It really was no big deal to manage the Softride clamps.

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Paul

Agree. Sold mine and bought a titanflex. Best bike decision I've ever made. Look at the bright side, though, with all the maintenance required from the Rocket beam, after a year or so, you will become an expert...

Did not take me any longer to change seats on my TT7 or Power V than my Record Carbon post....

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What if the Hokey Pokey is what it is all about?

First time, I had the same problem, and yes I actually ended up with a hammer in hand and was about to use it to remedy the situation. But, I can now adjust the seat in seconds instead of hours. It just takes a bit to get used to and the instructions help. a lot.

If I do have a rant about the seat connection configuration, it is that the rails of some saddles are far enough apart, or too close together, that it is pretty tight getting all the wedges in there, and the bolt that holds them all together is just baaaarely long enough to keep them from popping apart. (Enter a trip to Home Depot) problem solved.

I'd say overall that the engineering is sound considering the overall flexibilty for so many applications (read: different seats, etc.)

I seem to have to take the upper part of the clamp apart, but it only takes me a couple of minutes.

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Dick

Take everything I say with a grain of salt. I know nothing.

Okay..... so I took it apart one more time just to see if it was going to be as easy as Adam said and yes it was, but.......

I bought one of the Selle San marco trigel saddles and put on the new PFS wing base bar and new T2 alloy s bends. The arm pads sit approx 3/4 inch lower than syntace. I tried changing the sadlle heigth using the Softride high/ low system and there is a ridge under the saddle that will not accomodate the "lower" position. Not a big deal, but more of an FYI.

Brian