Stingers = tubular
Jets = clincher

You could likely find a rear trispoke on the used market, ebay, etc, quite easily and cheap. Might be 10 speed freehub though, on which you might be able to put an 11 speed conversion cassette onto.

The Stingers are tubular while Jets are clincher. There is both a tubular and clincher trispoke. The H3+ is the clincher version.

I thought HED was still doing H3 rear wheels. You might check around and see if there ever was an H3+ rear. If so, you can probably track one down.

Cheers - should have mentioned - it is a ten speed bike. 2013 Trek Speed Concept with Ultegra, so older ten speed would be fine. I assume I can find a way to run 10 sp on the current offerings.

I definitely want clinchers - Not up for tubulars (have used in the past).

Do you know why they don't offer a new tri-spoke rear? Am I wrong to believe they are quite fast?

Thanks

And the Jet Plus vs Jet Black is just the braking surface on the black? They seem to have the same dimensions.

I always loved trispokes too, but I believe the general consensus is that they are no faster, and possibly slower, than the more recent deep wheel offerings like the Jet 6 and 9. Trispokes can also supposedly be harder to handle in strong winds.

As for no longer making it in a rear, maybe just due to low demand. Most people who you see using a trispoke wheel is a front paired with a disc rear.

Yup black is the textured braking surface.

Thanks.

Think I’ll go with the Jet Black in that case. 6 or 9 front and disc rear. If I qualify I can add a 9 rear without telling the wife that I have to replace the entire wheel set!

If you want the best tri spokes in clinchers you would have to order the H3 Plus which is an 11 speed wheel which is a wider and better version of the H3. I can only see the front on their website now but they used to make a rear and they are still for sale on some websites. If you want to go cheap you could get a set of H3 wheels that are narrower and an earlier version generally 10 speed but you can buy a freehub and convert them to 11 should you upgrade. If you want a deeper wheel you can still find the H3D which is a deeper rim version of the H3 but I would only run that on the rear. I have a set of GT3 tubular Hed tri spokes I run at Kona and a disc rear at all other races.

Thanks. I’m actually a little nervous that the wider design may not fit my bike. It is pretty tight in the rear already. I think I’ve run older Zipp 808s and Durace something’s there but no idea how wide they were.

I can just see myself buying a new bike at the end of this exercise to fit the wheels!

It is a bit hard for me to buy second hand or from other sellers because I am based in NZ and we don’t have much on offer here.

Depends on postage and the US postage is a killer.I got a set of Corima four spoke out the UK for not a bad price to Australia that I train on purely because they look badass...

You really should get the wider wheels. The old narrow Trispoke is very limited on tire choice because low Crr tires that are only 20mm wide are pretty much limited to just the Conti SS and who knows how much longer they will even make that tire.

You should have enough clearance on the 1st-gen SC for any of the HED wheels.

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ZONE3 - We Last Longer

Correct. The textured braking surface of the Jet Blacks is awesome. Best braking of any bike I own.

Agree. I had a gen 1 SC, and I had no issue using wide HED Stingers/disc, as well as Zipp Super 9 and 808 wheels, with conti 25mm tires. That said, I did not have the duo trap thingy installed on the chainstay, so if you do have that, maybe that could make things a bit tighter, not sure...

Trust me. You want a jet black disc and jet black 6 (or 9) front. I’ve got a jet black disc/9 combo on my Felt and it’s awesome. I’ve got jet black 4 set on my road bike. It’s more than just a black brake surface. The surface is also textured which makes the braking MUCH better than traditional aluminum brake track (in my experience). Full disclosure, I’m biased cuz I’m a huge fan of HED wheels (I’ve got 3 sets) because of value, performance, and my hatred for carbon brake tracks. If you follow My Bike Shop online they have sales regularly on HED wheels.

You can run a 10-speed cassette on any of the current 11-speed offerings by using a widely available 1.85mm thick spacer before the largest sprocket like this one: https://www.amazon.com/...s=gateway&sr=8-1

Unless you get a crazy good deal, I would not buy a 10-speed disc wheel.

I too have a 10-speed bike but I made sure to buy an 11-speed HED Jet Black disc wheel to future proof it for my next bike. It will also hold it's value far more.

And as Richard mentioned, 11-speed wheels come with the simple 10-speed adapter.

And it's my opinion the HED Jet Blacks are the finest wheels made unless you are a pro racing mountain stages. Then a full carbon wheel that saves you a few grams is necessary.

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Hey thanks everybody for the input.

Will definitely go for 11sp and use a spacer. Good to hear others have used these same wheels on a 1st gen SC. It is still a great bike which is plenty fast enough for me!

Last question - though I am sure it is more a question of preference - any views on 6 vs 9 for the front?

Deeper. Always deeper.

My first set of wheels were 60/90 because I was worried about handling. I regretted it almost immediately. The handling was a non-issue, and the 90mm looks so much better up front. When I upgraded to disc, I upgraded my front to 90mm. It is freakin' awesome.

The difference is about 2 watts according to the Aerocoach testing, so maybe 30-40 seconds over an IM and 8 over an Oly. It really depends on if you are likely to encounter situation with high cross-winds and if you have a backup wheel that you can use if conditions really stink. Both the 6 and 9 are going to get moved around in a good cross wind. The 9 is just more movement.

I would think having a 9 and a 4 would be the ultimate combo. The 4 would be really civilized on a windy day and you could run the 9 in the majority of situations. Coming down from Hawi on a 9 could be a near death experience if the winds are really cooking and a 6 would only be a little better.

I have ridden the 6 and the 9 and I personally would get a 6 front especially if you are going to get a set Jet wheels. With the aluminium braking surface and being a clincher I wouldn't hesitate to train on them and you can afford to be a lot more relaxed on a 6 front than a 9 in windier conditions especially with traffic. The gains racing are minimal and IMO having raced the 9 front I think can be negative to a shallower wheel in certain conditions so for overall wheel use get a 6...

Awesome, thanks again everyone!

I always tell people to favor a shallower front wheel. The deeper front wheel doesn't really help you until you start to see an average yaw above 10-15 degrees and, to see a yaw that high, you need a fairly substantial crosswind. If you ride at 25mph a 15 degree crosswind would be ~6.7mph. A 6.7mph crosswind experienced by you, the rider and your bike at the surface, would likely be closer to 20mph "reported" wind speed depending on surrounding surface conditions (e.g. what you'd see on a weather service, they typically measure windspeed 10 meters off the ground). Ever go for a ride on deep section wheels in 20mph "reported" winds? It's not fun.

A Jet 4 or 6 up front is a very safe bet all around and when it's blustery outside you'll be comfortably staying in aero while those on deeper wheels will be in and out of aero and on their base bar trying to keep control of their bike. That said, definitely run a disc in the rear.

FYI...There’s an H3+ front wheel available in the classifieds for a very good price right now