I would buy an 11-32 or 11-34 cassette and a new rear derailleur.

You can probably go up to a 30T cassette in the back with your existing system (might need a longer chain). It's the cheapest option, so try that first.

In the front, you can get a compact crankset (110mm bolt circle vs. the existing 130mm...or if it's already a compact, just get new rings). Then you can put on a 50/34 or 52/36. Personally I go for the 50/34 on my road bike (where I do most of my climbing) and 52/36 on my tri bike.

I did the conversions when I moved to NorCal from the Midwest and suddenly had to contend with "real" climbs on a regular basis (42/25 wan't going to cut it).

---

ECMGN Therapy Silicon Valley:
Depression, Neurocognitive problems, Dementias (Testing and Evaluation), Trauma and PTSD, Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI)

a 50/34 front 11-34 rear would be perfect for you

never skimp on gears, always have low enough gears to keep turning so you can be comfortable. Id never sell a 60 year old a 52/38, thats insane

---

Strava

Depending how far off you are. I would try a 34 inner ring first which is what normally goes with an outer 52. Then an 11-28 or 11-30 cassette. Both changes should be compatible with your da4 without changing derailleur or crankset. Although in some instances the 11-30 might be troublesome.

A 52 tooth large chainring would normally have a 36 tooth inner chainring.

My guess is that your cranks are 130bcd so if you want a smaller front ring you'll need to change cranks.
A wider cassette would be your start point 12-30.
Its not a matter of fitness it's a matter of terrain. I can manage with a 39-25 small gear on my tt bike but I don't have big hills in my area. Even the top pros use smaller gears than you for hilly events. It's faster.

52/38 is an odd combination. 52/36 is more common. Replacing an inner ring to get 36t is relatively cheap, but replacing the outer ring as well to get to 50/34 might be more expensive. 36t would 5.5% easier gearing, 34t would be 11.7%.

Most derailleurs from the last 5-6 years will handle a 30t cassette no problems, which would offer 20% easier gearing. 34t cassette would require a medium cage derailleur for a 36% benefit.

Running 34f, 34r would offer 52% easier gearing than your current setup.

Your DA4 is 10 speed?

If it is I'd be looking for an 11-32 and a long cage derailleur.

Next I'd identify the crank to see what it is. You may be able to go smaller. A picture would help.

Thank you all! I will read every suggestion and make changes accordingly. I’m impressed how knowledgeable everyone is on this forum. You guys are always so helpful.
Thanks again,
Mark

I stand corrected. I meant 36 not 34 which would normally go with a 50. Da4 shipped with an FSA 52 36 crankset, at least mine.

I second this suggestion.50/34 really helps getting up almost anything. When I first switched over I thought I would loose speed, but not so.

I just learned to spin more.

If you go this option make sure your rear cassette has an 11 cog. That will keep you pretty speedy.

See you on a climb some day....hopefully not passing me😉

Nothing to do with age... all about watts an cadence you want to hold for a given condition (slope, wind, weight, etc)...

Currently, your smallest ratio right not is 1.52 (38 / 25) - Fairly aggressive for most people

If you go to a 34 / 27 your ratio become 1.26. (change the rings and the cassette)

What does that mean to you... in your smallest ratio, at a given cadence, your watts (and speed) will be ~20% lower (1- 1.26/1.52)


Is that enough for you: i don't really know, without knowing how much of a break you want to get...

Shimano now makes a gravel crank It has a 30 small ring. Sram may make something similar otherwise you would have to purchase a bottom bracket to go along with the crank set.

Problem with the Shimano is they are on backorder presently.