I’d lean HED Jet 9+ Black w/ G3 Hub and Disc Cover. You didn’t specify your height/inseam/post a fit video, but I’d be very sure 165mm is the right length before committing to a crank based meter. Dave Luscan/FindingFreestyle has some pretty relevant opinions on such a discussion that I’d encourage you to read. Unfortunate reality is that there’s very few options that let you go shorter than 165mm while keeping power in the crank/spider/arm. Rotor has 1 and I believe Quarq does as well or is progressing towards it.

If you're happy with your current Assioma pedals (they generall get good reviews) then why not just get another set? At least if one of your sets of pedals needs servicing then you can send one set in and temporarily swap the working set between bikes without having to make any other adjustments?

Well there are some issues you didn't consider. A G3 will be pretty much useless if you ever go the disc route (assuming you are doing a rim brake bike) . A PT is great for aero and Crr testing because they actually measure power to the rear wheel. No drivetrain losses and they tend to be super reliable.

Pedal-based power meters are great if you ever travel and rent a bike. They aren't so hot for aero and rolling resistance because all frictional losses are ignored. You better be anal about chain lube and wear if you want to do any testing on different occasions.

Crank-based PMs might not work if you ever want to switch to a Cervelo or Trek because there are many BB30 cranks.

I don't know if the ENVE's are tubeless, but you are spending way too much to not have that option.

Since you didn't talk about some of the issues I pointed out, I think I would just go with a pedal-based solution.

Thanks for tips so far. To clarify some questions raised:

1) I haven't done aero testing yet. I probably will, at some point. But right now I'm optimizing for comfort and getting stronger/faster. It's not really clear to me why hub vs crank vs pedal power would make a difference though. If anything, I'd think pedal power would be best (not wheel) since that's the furthest up the chain relative to actual power output (my legs).

2) I don't have a disc wheel. I've always felt like I'm not "fast enough" for one, being a rather middling 3.5 watt/kg rider (but fast swimmer/runner). Maybe I'd get one someday, but now I'd kind of feel like a tool riding a disc at <25 mph. But that said, powertap hubs are so cheap ($350) that if I were to invest in a disc, I'd just get a HED Disc with powertap or use my Assioma pedals for those specific races.

3) I just want the best, least fussy solution. Nothing sucks more than equipment issues on raceday. I had Vector 3 pedals fail during a race. Never will buy a Garmin product again.

4) I want the "system" that makes the most sense given I'll do the bulk of my training on TT bike on my Tacx. I want my outdoor power to match the Tacx as closely as possible -- so I'm not racing +/- 5%, given that's basically the difference between my 70.3/Olympic power.

I like my hub based power. I can't imagine anything less fussy--since I never do anything to it, except ride. My hub makes zero noise.

I simply put a wheel cover on it for racing---actually at this point, I've stopped removing the cover and just ride with it all the time. You don't need an expensive wheel if you are putting a cover on it. And you don't need an expensive wheel, if you are riding on a trainer.

I would expect the PT hub power value to be the closest to your Tacx power value since both measure the power at essentially the same point in the system.

So, if you reqs are:

1. No fuss.
2. quiet.
3. Same power indication as Tacx.

My vote is PT hub.

as someone who changes pedals from bike to bike constantly, i can't help not to roll my eyes. it literally only takes a minute. that being said, i'm happy with the power2max ng eco that i bought for the gravel bike. the only reason i don't swap my p1 pedals over to that as well is that i use dual entry mountain bike spd's for that one

Based on above and especially the bolded part, buy an SRM.

---

blog

Thanks for sharing your experience. I think the PT hub is where I'm leaning -- low fuss, and measures power most similarly to my Tacx. I had a Gen 1 PT on my old TT bike for my "training" wheelset, and it performed flawlessly for nearly 8 years. Incredible considering I sometimes rode in Chicago winters and salty roads.

The more I think about it, the more it seems crazy to pay $1000 more for the Zipp wheels + Pioneer, when I'm not even sure the 808/404 NSW would be better than the Enve's which come with a PT hub for no incremental cost over the standard 7.8s. Enve's are tubeless -- no figuring out if I actually want to run them tubeless is another issue, but at least I have the option.

I hadn't considered HED. I see they conveniently can be ordered from HED with PT hub, for same price as ENVEs. The aluminum brake track is certainly appealing given races happen rain or shine, and I'm not yet sold on the PITA factor of disc brakes.

My concern with HED has always been they're "delicate" due to the thin carbon farings. Does anyone have any good/bad experience traveling with them (especially stuffing them in soft bike bags and flying with them)? Also, what's this that I hear about them filling up with water and needing to drain?

MBS is calling your name in the link below. I've had no trouble flying with mine in an armored Hen House but it's only been 6 or 7 flights. As for the potential flooding; just ensure you leave the drainhole at the 6oclock position of the wheel when you're done for the day. The 5 are 5mm shallower than the 6 fairing.

https://forum.slowtwitch.com/...99_shipped_P6713745/

Get the HED wheels and don't look back. They are not fragile. They are probably faster than both of the options you are considering. And, HEDs are frequently on sale for less than 1/3 the cost of the others you are considering. The Black brake track is the real deal. I rode mine in the rain this weekend, and I noticed almost no braking performance difference when wet.

Unless you want the full carbon clincher wheels for style, or have a strong brand affinity, then look no further than HED wheels.

Wait, people are still buying PT hubs? I thought it was just agreed on that they are straight crap. From what I understand, you're going to spend more on replacing the bearings than they're even worth.

Your argument about the power reading the same b/c they're both at the wheel makes sense in theory, but there's about 0.5% chance they actually read the same. I have had a bunch of different power meters all at the crank and they all read differently by a few watts. If you have a smart trainer just go by than for all your workouts inside, and go by the PM on your bike for outdoor workouts and racing. Chances are the effort to power output will also be different indoors versus outdoor on the same PM. Just my experience.

Get a Quarq d-zero. $650 (retail) for the spider. Once you have the spider you can get different crank arm lengths from SRAM for $100 for Aluminum and $400 for carbon. If you aren't sure if 650mm is going to work for you, start with the aluminum arms and if they work, get carbon if you want to. I have 2 d-zeros and they are great. I have swapped crank arms and swap chainrings all the time with no issues at all.

Also, as everyone else has said, buy HEDs. You'll actually be able to stop and you're going to save a boat load of cash. Hell, you can get a set of Jet 6s and a Jet Disc for the price of a set of ENVEs or Zipps probably.

What? What pt hub issues? I haven't seen any threads go by, and a search didn't turn up anything obvious. I didn't find anything with a general Google search either.

I've had my pt hub for 15 years. I have had zero issues with it. Admittedly, it isn't a G3.