Before you hang another light on to that mount, it might be worth checking with Enve to see what they have to say. The one downside to the "attaches via the stem mount screws" variant of mounts is that there's a really scary failure mode potential. If those screws fail, you aren't just looking at the loss of a bike computer, you may well be losing some teeth, or worse.

I've been doing a *bunch* of computer mount testing for some reviews we hope to have up on the site soon, and I've broken several mounts. One thing that is *really* clear from the testing so far is that a lot of mounts just don't seem to have been designed for all the stuff people are hanging off them these days. Adding a light to a mount that was designed for a computer more than doubles the static load. Who knows how much more load it sees when that weight starts moving, even a tiny little bit. Then add *another* light to it...

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Thanks for the heads up. I'll check with Enve. The mount is made to hold at least 2 items (computer and a go pro device or go pro mount). I plan to use a light head, with a battery strapped on my top tube and a lightweight self contained light, so the lights themselves will be on lighter side.

I should add, I'm using an enve aero stem, with a built in screw that is only for their mount. It's unrelated to the actual stem bolts fastening the handlebars. Now if this screw fails, I still might be crying, because I use expensive Lupine lights.

Gotcha. FWIW, I'd definitely be more comfortable adding a second light to that mount than the mount for their standard stem, which uses the faceplate screws. Stakes are much lower, but yeah... losing a Lupine would suuuuuuuuuuck.

I'd really like to see manufacturers start telling us how much weight their mounts are designed to hold. My guess, though, is that the vast majority of them probably don't have numbers like that to give us.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Funny you should say this. I've got a k-edge garmin/go-pro mount that failed on me last week. The 'bar' is mounted to the bar clamp with two screws, and one had gone awol and the other was working loose. Luckily I noticed and was able to tighten to get me home.

I also always use the cord on the garmin looped around the bars, so I wouldn't have lost anything, but still, was disappointing.

However, in their defence, I have added a battery back to the go-pro to be able to get 6hrs recording, and so that would have upped the weight, and I assume it's that which caused the issues. I'm now using the garmin mount above the k-edge mount so in effect even though it's a double mount, I'm only using one and so the weight should be ok.

I've gone full MacGyver on the bike I use for touring (Cannondale CAAD8) and made light and camera mounts by chopping the bridge off a pair of shorty aerobars and clamping them to the end of the drops.

IME you really, really need to keep an eye on the screws with this design. I've had two of them fail on me, one an actual K-edge, and another a knock off. To their credit, K-Edge was *very* responsive when I contacted them about the failure, and sent me a replacement mount immediately, even offering to compensate me for the devices attached to the mount (which, luckily, were found by a friend a couple of days later).

When the knock-off failed, I was using a leash. Learned that lesson, and like you I always use one now.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

I had an old joule head unit, that flew off when I hit a bump on a bridge at the bottom of a descent, and so that was my 'learning' moment. Computer was fine, was just a pain losing all my momentum ;-)

As for the k-edge screws, To be honest I didn't even know there were screws and it wasn't a single piece until it came loose. And as I say, I take some responsibility by adding the battery (note, this really does make the go-pro make a lot more sense for road riding, as it means you can have full 60fps recording of a 5hour ride without needing to stop to swap batteries - and for me it's a safety thing rather than ever watching 5 hours of real time road riding). All I did was go to the hardware store and get some new bolts - they aren't countersunk but same pitch and the right length, so it's all good. The one that I had left did seem to have had some locktite blue on the thread, but looking at it then that was not on the end where it needed to be, more midthread.

Last I looked, K-edge was pretty explicit in their literature recommending that people don't futz with the screws on their mounts, and I think this is a mistake. Folks should probably check them on a pretty regular basis if they're going to use anything more than a head unit on a mount like this.


Maybe? As I said up thread, I think manufacturers should start giving a weight rating for these things.



After a couple of failures, I don't mess around. Mounts of this type get taken apart and re-assembled with red loctite before use.

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Tech writer/support on this here site. FIST school instructor and certified bike fitter. Formerly at Diamondback Bikes, LeMond Fitness, FSA, TiCycles, etc.
Coaching and bike fit - http://source-e.net/ Cyclocross blog - https://crosssports.net/ BJJ instruction - https://ballardbjj.com/

Well their advice may be as the heads are made of the generic cheese that was first pioneered by Hope Products (UK MTB components manufacturer) to remain perfectly functioning until they come into line of sight of an allen key where the heads crumble in the breeze.

Re the weight, in fairness even if they did quote it then the chance of me remembering or weighing is about zero. I am an absolute nightmare for companies if I buy something and it fails to deliver. But equally, in situations where I am partially to blame, and I consider that to be the case here, I take that on the chin. Normally, given the price premium that k-edge charge for what would appear to be a relatively simple lump of metal, I'd be really pretty intolerant of failure.

I’ve decided to go with a rec mount adapter, it’s a 1 to 2. These are from Japan. I’m using their enve aero stem out front, also made by rec mount, which goes into a 5th screw on the stem. If this single screw were to wiggle loose, even though there is loctite, there is an additional fail safe, in that you install the out front before you install the stem faceplate, and the faceplate then partially covers the out front bolt.

If you have never heard of rec mount, they have a ton of gps, gopro bike products for many aero road handlebars. The out front mount feels beefy. I will see how their adapter feels. Sourcing from amazon japan is the best pricing, I could find that’s also in written in English.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/...00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://www.rec-mounts.com/

https://www.rec-mounts.com/...ucts/cycle-computer/

I’ve used some of their stuff with success. Also one of the 3D printing platforms has a TON of nice options. I’ve got something from him and it’s very solid. Way better than one of my Amazon cheapo garmin mounts.

What I bought was a garmin male on the backside with garmin and CycliqPlus females on the front side for rear camera / varia. Zero concern of it failing.

This site has some nice options. I ordered a 3D printed gopro mount. Thanks for mentioning it above.

https://www.racewaredirect.co/